Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas

[rScotty]

I'm confused here are you saying "NUT" sometimes when you mean socket???:confused3:

I think he used a nut as an insert for a socket so that he could use his 3/4" socket set to turn the square headed block insert. Basically he made a special nut with the normally threaded hole hand filed to fit that square head insert. That works because the outside of a nut fits tightly in a socket, and the socket itself can fit into the recessed area around the square head of the block insert.

Apparently he tried parts until he came up with some that were close to right size to start with.....and then hand-filed the threaded center of the nut until it was a very tight fit over the square end of the block insert. In fact, it was such a tight fit that he had to tap the modified nut onto the square end of the block insert and then slide the 3/4 drive socket and handle on.

..... if I understand it right.

That's a clever trick, but requires real craftsmanship with some slim hand files.

I wonder if a guy could buy a socket adapter already made for that job??
rScotty

 

[LouNY]

Kim Hotstart does make the threaded block heater that goes into that spot, I put one in my Yarmar 3000 engine when I had it. Here is the trick I used. Get a large nut that you have a socket to fit. In my case it was a 3/4" drive socket set that included a 3/4" drive breaker bar, sorry I can't remember what size nut I used. I filed out the center of the nut to fit the wrench square in the nut tightly. So tight in fact, I can remember tapping the nut in place with a lead hammer for the final fit. I then started the tractor and got it up to operating temp. On a warm engine, I used a 3/4" breaker bar, and it didn't take much effort in fact to get it loose. A little Teflon tape to the plug threads on the Kim Hotstart and the job was done. A good fit on the nut, and a warm engine were the key to getting it loose.
Chris

Interesting and innovative way of getting a socket to fit a square head.
Definitely agree with warming up the engine to break the plug loose, also some penetrating oil and some rapping it with a hammer will help.

 

[HoyeTractor]

I wonder if a guy could buy a socket adapter already made for that job??

You can buy '4 point sockets'. I think those are 20mm if I remember right (double check before you order one). There are a few on ebay.

Grey Pneumatic 332S 3/4" Drive x 2mm Square - 4 Point Socket 7294447434 | eBay

We made one before by plasma cutting a square in some 1/4" plate steel and then welding it to an old socket. Worked really well in a pinch.

 

[chriswheeler]

Sorry for the confusion Clemsonfor. The square machined or cast onto the block plug is being fit to the bore of a larger nut to get a better grip on the plug square. This is to get more of a bite on that plug. The tighter the fit the better grip it will have. Fitting the bore of the nut to the square isn't much work for a retired machinist. When the fit of the bore of the nut is close, I used a lead hammer to drive the nut onto the plug's square for what amounts to a press fit. Then, with the engine up to operating temp, use the socket over this nut that's press fit onto the plugs square, to remove the plug itself.
Chris

 

[California]

Ohhhh! The square on the block plug is exterior, male. I didn't pay attention to the photo above, and was trying to visualize a tool made to fit a recessed square hole.

I was very confused.

Now it makes sense. :thumbsup:

 

[clemsonfor]

I think he used a nut as an insert for a socket so that he could use his 3/4" socket set to turn the square headed block insert. Basically he made a special nut with the normally threaded hole hand filed to fit that square head insert. That works because the outside of a nut fits tightly in a socket, and the socket itself can fit into the recessed area around the square head of the block insert.

Apparently he tried parts until he came up with some that were close to right size to start with.....and then hand-filed the threaded center of the nut until it was a very tight fit over the square end of the block insert. In fact, it was such a tight fit that he had to tap the modified nut onto the square end of the block insert and then slide the 3/4 drive socket and handle on.

..... if I understand it right.

That's a clever trick, but requires real craftsmanship with some slim hand files.

I wonder if a guy could buy a socket adapter already made for that job??
rScotty

ok I am following you now! I have welded nuts to stripped bolts or bolt heads or to just a stub to get things out before.

 

[Jtullis13]

This was a very interesting way of removing that plug. Glad it worked for Chris, maybe Scotty can make something work

 

[Scotty Dive]

Maybe there is hope for me....

 

[coldsteelva]

It would seem that getting heat into that entire block is important to loosening the thread grip BEFORE attempting to remove the plug.

 

[Jtullis13]

I agree, but if it is stuck that bad, I don't think just running it to hot will be enough to break that thing loose, I could be wrong because I have been before. I know using a torch on a block is not ideal, but that might be the only way to enough heat to that plug and the block to free it up. I have had to do this on my 155d, and other applications too. Just a thought Scotty.