Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas

   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #21  
I don't know just how good access you have to the plug. If straight in access I see no reason you couldn't drill into it and use a large eeze out. Just making sure you drill in the middle of the plug so you can continue to enlarge the hole to the point of picking out the remains in the threads. I know shavings could get in there. Maybe a good flush or two would take care of those. Might not want to try it, just giving you something to ponder.
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #22  
Here is a soft plug heater application I'm installing in a Kubota that is too shallow to allow an internal heating element. It uses a nipple that is installed in the bore providing room for the heating element. You might ask your dealer if this would work if the correct size is available.
 

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   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #23  
i will admit. i gave up on 3 bolts. each one going to a finishing mower blade. i ended up taking entire deck to a local tractor dealer. had them use there larger "impact wrench" industrial size of course. and then even a larger bigger breaker bar. with cheater bar included of course. and one of the stronger ones there dealt with it. it took about 15 minutes most of it was "getting a bigger / better tool" to try out. i think it ended up being 3/4? or larger breaker bar with cheater that was approx 8 feet long for each of the 3 bolts.

before i gave up. like you used BP blaster, to a torch, to impact wrench, to box end wrenches with cheater bar. to breaker bar/s with cheater bars. and nothing would give. and things were in such a way, that i could not "grind / drill" the stupid bolts out. so i had to unscrew the 3 bolts no matter what.

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i do not remember the formula of DIY penetrating oil... but it eats paint, eats rust, and gives a little oil... i want to say mutric acid was part of the mix of a couple chemicals added together.

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on inline heaters. (small heater plus water pump) that hook into a couple of the coolant lines never found a good spot to mount them, without them possibly snagging on something and getting ripped off. i have seen multi units have longer cords put on them. but the (small heater / small pump combo) unit always seems to set outside some place either under tractor or off on the side. and right were driving over weeds or possibly sinking front end down in mud / water (up to axle or a little higher) and the unit would get damaged.

How did this not break the bolts first???!!!!
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #24  
got a funkey message so i resubmitted a post.

THis is like 6 years later since a software swap..why does this stuff still happen?
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #25  
no clue about your specific tractor but....

glow plug = little heater kinda shape of a small spark plug. and goes into the air intake manifold. the ones i have seen (very limited amount) have a single wire going to them.

some tractors you move the key from off to on and a little more (not completely start cranking but almost) and hold it for 10 seconds then turn key rest of the way to start tractor.
some tractors the glow plug auto comes on all the time summer to winter does not matter when.

the glow plugs do go bad from time to time. perhaps wire got yanked off as well. or switch or relay is bad for it.

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i have had problems with various "boosters / cleaners / conditioners / etc.." that you dump into the fuel make it gas to diesel. drain the tank and run tractor long enough to work out fuel in the fuel lines / filters / etc...

the tractor should not require anything else to be added to it as for as pure diesel straight from the local pump at given fuel station. or less there something funky that manufacture wants added?

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on another note some tractors might have "ether" injection for cold start. little canister you may need to keep filled.

BUT this tractor was made 35 years ago. There was more lubricity in the fuel and the fuel then was way different out in rural japan than it is today at a modern fuel station where modern diesel needs to meet EPA emissions. The extra two stroke oil is to add lubricity to it and the cetane is to increase that which helps decrease diesel knock in these loud yanmars.
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #26  
Here is a soft plug heater application I'm installing in a Kubota that is too shallow to allow an internal heating element. It uses a nipple that is installed in the bore providing room for the heating element. You might ask your dealer if this would work if the correct size is available.

Not finding any info on this part. What is it called or where did you get yours? I have a Yanmar 2210D that is too shallow for the block heater.
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #27  
Not finding any info on this part. What is it called or where did you get yours? I have a Yanmar 2210D that is too shallow for the block heater.
I can't remember the part number. I ordered it from my kubota dealer. Its just called a block heater or soft plug heater.
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #28  
Every year when it starts to get cold around here I start thinking about installing a block heater. The problem I have is the plug doesn't want to budge. What really makes it difficult is I dont have any tool that fits this square plug. Its obviously metric and I am sure its rusted into place from the inside since I am sure its first 25 years of life had rice patty water in it. I have tried to use a socket extension (square) and an impact wrench without any luck and all I have done is I have started to round the corners which makes getting a grip on it even worse.

My latest thought was welding a nut to the square plug thinking the heat might help break the rust down on the threads and then I would have a nut that I can attach a proper impact socket and work it from there. Its very hard to start when its bitterly cold and the tractor sits outside under a deck roof so there is no real way to get it warm. I have to admit I am hesitant to do anything that might do damage to the block so I would appreciate any help. Here is a picture of it before I started to work on it. Since then I have scraped the paint around the threads and hit it with all sorts of penetrating oil over the last few years but it still wont budge. Thoughts and ideas?


Scotty I feel your pain.... On my 2210d I don't have many options, so I use a 2 magnetic Kat heaters, one on the side of the block and one on the bottom of the oil pan. All last year that worked great for me. On my newly purchased 155d I had a heck of a time removing a plug just like you have. It was in tight location, ended up removing the oil filter, starter and air breather to get a wrench on it and still was tight due to the fuel lines. I had to put heat to the pug and block 6 different times before I finally got it out of there and I ended up rounding the edges a little too. Maybe get a lager flat jawed vice grip and use heat again to get it out of there, or use the Kat's heaters like I do on my 2210d.200-watt-magnetic.jpg
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #29  
Kim Hotstart does make the threaded block heater that goes into that spot, I put one in my Yarmar 3000 engine when I had it. Here is the trick I used. Get a large nut that you have a socket to fit. In my case it was a 3/4" drive socket set that included a 3/4" drive breaker bar, sorry I can't remember what size nut I used. I filed out the center of the nut to fit the wrench square in the nut tightly. So tight in fact, I can remember tapping the nut in place with a lead hammer for the final fit. I then started the tractor and got it up to operating temp. On a warm engine, I used a 3/4" breaker bar, and it didn't take much effort in fact to get it loose. A little Teflon tape to the plug threads on the Kim Hotstart and the job was done. A good fit on the nut, and a warm engine were the key to getting it loose.
Chris
 
   / Removing Plug to Install a Block Heater - Need some ideas #30  
Kim Hotstart does make the threaded block heater that goes into that spot, I put one in my Yarmar 3000 engine when I had it. Here is the trick I used. Get a large nut that you have a socket to fit. In my case it was a 3/4" drive socket set that included a 3/4" drive breaker bar, sorry I can't remember what size nut I used. I filed out the center of the nut to fit the wrench square in the nut tightly. So tight in fact, I can remember tapping the nut in place with a lead hammer for the final fit. I then started the tractor and got it up to operating temp. On a warm engine, I used a 3/4" breaker bar, and it didn't take much effort in fact to get it loose. A little Teflon tape to the plug threads on the Kim Hotstart and the job was done. A good fit on the nut, and a warm engine were the key to getting it loose.
Chris
I'm confused here are you saying "NUT" sometimes when you mean socket???:confused::confused3:
 

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