Repairing metal hydraulic line

[N8ghz]

maybe you can ask the guy with the leak what he has nearby?

I hope he gets it silver-soldered, myself.

over & out

 

[Soundguy]

personally that's what i would do.. IE.. silver solder it myself. easie rthan cut and union.. faster too.


soundguy

 

[kennyd]

Swagelock is one brand in particular that is pressure rated. The tube may be metric-it will have to be accurately measured.

Soldering/Brazing may work, but the line must be removed to do it with any chance of success IMO. Since you have to go through all that work to remove it, solder it, then re-install to test it...You should price a new line.

Which line is it? Part #25 is only $50.59. Hardly worth trying to fix it for that.

Part Details

Part Number:AM101979
Part Price: 50.59 USD
On Hand:

0 Check Other Stores
Description: LINE, OIL

 

[hosspuller]

Kenny has hit the mark on this repair. I was going to suggest a custom hydraulic hose. Instead of a metal line, my Deere dealer made me a hose with the same ends. Saved $100 for me after $35 for the hose.

I too, have used Swagelok fittings on High pressure industrial process lines(10,000 psi working pressure) Not cheap but they did the job. perhaps the break is small enough to be cut out and then rejoined with a tube union. But at best you'd only be saving a few dollars.

Buy the correct part. :laughing:

 

[Pushrod_Paul]

Swagelock is one brand in particular that is pressure rated. The tube may be metric-it will have to be accurately measured.

Soldering/Brazing may work, but the line must be removed to do it with any chance of success IMO. Since you have to go through all that work to remove it, solder it, then re-install to test it...You should price a new line.

Which line is it? Part #25 is only $50.59. Hardly worth trying to fix it for that.

Part Details

Part Number:AM101979
Part Price: 50.59 USD
On Hand:

0 Check Other Stores
Description: LINE, OIL

Thanks Kenny. It is either part number 20 or 25 on the diagram. I wont be sure until I get back out there and can look underneigth at it again. There are two lines that run next to each other right above the drive shaft that connects to the mfwd. It is the left side line.

It was devil's butt hot this past weekend and I didn't feel like tracing the line out to each end after I removed the belly mower.

I would definetly rather replace the line if the cost is only under $100.00

Do you know the procedure for bleeding the lines once they are reconnected?

 

[Soundguy]

depending on what it feeds, just leave one end .. the far end, a lil loose and power up till it stops bubbling and striaght oil comes out... shut down and tighten.. then run that function thru it's paces.. ie.. steering or hyds or if hst, then it will auto bleed out. then check sump too for oil loss.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Egon]

If the new part is fifty bucks the Swedgelock fittings for repair will probably cost quite a bit more.

 

[Soundguy]

If the new part is fifty bucks the Swedgelock fittings for repair will probably cost quite a bit more.

i don't know what swedgelocks cost.. but the 1/4" 9000 psi union I mentioned costs 2.67$.. shipping likely costs 5$ for ups.. so call it 8$ for the hi pressure compression union repair... and the downtime.. etc.

i myself would very likely silver solder a patch on it..

soundguy

 

[kennyd]

It is a Open Center Hydraulic system, no "bleeding" is needed. Just start it up and cycle all the controls. Then re-check fluid level.

 

[J_J]

If the line you are replacing is your feed line, then you don't need to cycle anything.

Once you start the engine, the pump is already pushing fluid through the lines and valves at the GPM rate of your pump, and on the tank/reservoir.