Repairing metal hydraulic line

[travis potter]

I didn't any better so I just fired up the torch and welded the hole up with steel rod.

 

[DJNebraska]

Silver solder may work. I have no experience with soldering steel lines.
I've used these Ermetto type tube unions in the past to lengthen tubes. They can be used for patches too. They're rated for the pressure and you only need two wrenches to install them. Measure the O.D. of the tubing to know which one you need, cut the lines, preset the sleeves on the tube, inspect, tighten 1/4" turn, done.
Hydraulicstore.com - Ermetto Fittings -

Good luck!

 

[Mechanos]

Thanks Kenny. It is either part number 20 or 25 on the diagram. I wont be sure until I get back out there and can look underneigth at it again. There are two lines that run next to each other right above the drive shaft that connects to the mfwd. It is the left side line.

It was devil's butt hot this past weekend and I didn't feel like tracing the line out to each end after I removed the belly mower.

I would definetly rather replace the line if the cost is only under $100.00

Do you know the procedure for bleeding the lines once they are reconnected?

Paul... the line you're describing is going to be #20 in the diagram above. Like I mentioned earlier, it is one of the lines that runs from the hydro trans to the oil cooler in front of the radiator. On your tractor, this line is a completely different circuit than the circuit for the SCV's, rockshaft, etc. The hydro trans has it's own charge pump and will draw fluid from the reservior, pump it through the trans, trans filter, cooler and dump it back into the reservior. There is nothing to bleed. Once you repair or replace the line, just start it up and you're good to go.

Unless you have $65 burning a hole in your pocket, I would just buy one of the less than $10 compression unions and be done with in minutes. The heavy body of the union is also good insure that the line won't get another hole worn in it. Like I said earlier... these cooler lines on the x55 series are notorious for get a hole worn in them. Since the two lines run side by side, check the other line for wear as well... could very well be that it is only a couple of rubs away from a leak as well. If it is worn, but not leaking, pick up two of the unions and take care of the other while you're at it.

 

[Soundguy]

clean steel solders just fine... how do you think double barrell shotguns are made.. that's tight.. silver solder lives under the rib seperating the two bbls.

soundguy

Silver solder may work. I have no experience with soldering steel lines.
I've used these Ermetto type tube unions in the past to lengthen tubes. They can be used for patches too. They're rated for the pressure and you only need two wrenches to install them. Measure the O.D. of the tubing to know which one you need, cut the lines, preset the sleeves on the tube, inspect, tighten 1/4" turn, done.
Hydraulicstore.com - Ermetto Fittings -

Good luck!

 

[Pushrod_Paul]

Paul... the line you're describing is going to be #20 in the diagram above. Like I mentioned earlier, it is one of the lines that runs from the hydro trans to the oil cooler in front of the radiator. On your tractor, this line is a completely different circuit than the circuit for the SCV's, rockshaft, etc. The hydro trans has it's own charge pump and will draw fluid from the reservior, pump it through the trans, trans filter, cooler and dump it back into the reservior. There is nothing to bleed. Once you repair or replace the line, just start it up and you're good to go.

Unless you have $65 burning a hole in your pocket, I would just buy one of the less than $10 compression unions and be done with in minutes. The heavy body of the union is also good insure that the line won't get another hole worn in it. Like I said earlier... these cooler lines on the x55 series are notorious for get a hole worn in them. Since the two lines run side by side, check the other line for wear as well... could very well be that it is only a couple of rubs away from a leak as well. If it is worn, but not leaking, pick up two of the unions and take care of the other while you're at it.

Thanks for the info Mechanos. It looks like I have several options when I go back out there next weekend. I'll have to get a good measure of the line diameter before I can order a compression union, so I may temporarily solder it until I can do a better repair.

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. if you solder it correctly.. you may never have to repair it further..


soudnguy

 

[pat32rf]

When I took my 4300 in for its last warranttee work we noticed a drip in the 3rd valve line behind the seat where it had worn thru/cracked. As the dealer is an hours drive from home, and I was ready to load up and head back, he just grabbed a torch, some brass rod and had it fixed in 5 minutes. That was over 3000hrs ago....

 

[Mechanos]

IMHO.. if you solder it correctly.. you may never have to repair it further..


soudnguy

I agree. I was just trying to offer up an inexpensive, simple and easy fix. Using a union could most likely be installed with the line on the tractor. While soldering is a more permanent fix, it will probably require removing the line from the tractor to clean it as well as gain access to the spot that needs repair. The union would only take a small tubing cutter, a couple wrenches and about ten minutes.

 

[chopped]

:thumbsup:Unions are goood..

 

[Soundguy]

I agree. I was just trying to offer up an inexpensive, simple and easy fix. Using a union could most likely be installed with the line on the tractor. While soldering is a more permanent fix, it will probably require removing the line from the tractor to clean it as well as gain access to the spot that needs repair. The union would only take a small tubing cutter, a couple wrenches and about ten minutes.

i have no problem with a union.. I may have been the first person in this thread to mention one.. not sure. I know I linked to a couple different 3$ compression unions that would work in this application.

soundguy