repeated snowblower troubles

[JMynes]

Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds like you need a woodruff key. They come in various shapes and sizes, but they "key" the PTO shaft to the input shaft to transfer power to the implement.
The previous owner probably tack welded it in place, because they can be slippery little devils.
Measure the width of the slot and the combined height (or depth) of the two slots. Length is not as critical, use the longest key that will fit. They don't cost much at the hardware store, get a couple of spares.
The little hole is more than likely threaded and a set screw will snug the key down, keeping it from wiggling and moving around. Hopefully the key fits so snug that it won't move anyway.

 

[rbargeron]

It seems I didn't ask this question yet:

the pin holding that sleeve on was a grade 5, and then a grade 8. I broke both of them. For both times the key was not attached with the weld and the connection had a tiny bit of play in it. did i shear those bolts because the key was not welded in (and that hex screw wasn't tightened down), or is there a bigger problem at play?

thanks.

If everything fits together snug the key should not need to be welded in. But if it's been wearing and getting loose, or if the key is too small, then the pin is taking the load and isn't big enough to survive. (See post above)

It sounds like your key doesn't fit right, and the pin isn't big enough to do the job without it. Rehabilitating worn keyways is hard to do without taking the machine apart. But drilling through for a 1/2" diameter bolt should be possible. A grade 2 bolt, 1/2" diameter, will drive most pto implements while offering a bit of over-torque protection. Grade 2 is the commonly available grade at hardware stores (no marks on the head). Get several extras. If you have a couple in your pocket you won't need 'em

BTW, it's possible the key is a woodruff type but they are not common on ag equipment. A woodruff looks like a half-circle - the key seat is cut parallel to the shaft by a round cutter. The key becomes trapped by sliding the coupling over it and can't move either way. No need for welding or a set screw. The seat cutter is usually sized so the key is a tight fit and stays put during handling. Woodruffs are commonly found on tapered shafts where cutting a flat-bottom keyway is less practical.

More likely yours is a straight key. Straight keys are available in several sizes, or you can make one with a hacksaw and a piece of steel plate. In a pinch I have substituted a short length of round stock, laid in the keyway. (it has the same shear area as a square key). Might save a trip to town.

 

[farmboyhull]

Continued thanks, folks.

I got some key stock. Turns out i had to go to town anyway for some sort of tax meeting. My wife likes to mention these things a little alter than I'd like...

the 3/8 key stock fits perfectly. I'm going to cut a piece to length, put in a new pin, screw down that set screw, and hope for the best.

the pin that is used to hold the pieces together is currently a 5/16, i believe. If it appears I have to drill it out bigger, than I'll give that a shot.

Thanks, again.

David

 

[rbargeron]

I'm not surprised the key is 3/8" - Inland stuff is built heavy like other older machinery. With a proper key in there you won't need to increase the size of the keeper bolt. Have fun attacking those drifts ! Take care, Dick B

 

[JohninCT]

ctgoldwing: i've not been able to find any specs. it's discontinued.

I don't know if this is the model of Inland blower you have. If it is you might want to get the manual.

VINTAGE INLAND OPERATOR-PARTS MANUAL-SA60 SNOW BLOWERS - eBay (item 250755246049 end time Jan-17-11 03:37:39 PST)

 

[farmboyhull]

looks like i should be checking ebay more often! Thank for the link.

I ended up taking the blower off a few days ago and putting my blade back on. turns out the other night, when i thought i just had a few small troubles, I really had a large one,a s well. turns out the grade 8 bolt sheared before the grade 5, and the shaft was flapping around and banging against the hitch arms. i'll need a weld job or a new shaft, and i just didn't feel like doing it this winter.

quitters never win, but i'll get a second (or 16th, that feels more accurate) chance next winter.

thanks for all the help.

david