Replacing boards on trailer

[Alan L.]

I have a 16' trailer that I transport my tractor on. About 25% of the boards are rotten and need to be replaced. Based on earlier threads, I will first attempt to replace them without the use of a welder or cutting torch.

My questions is, what type of lumber is recommended? They look like regular 2 by 6 framing lumber that was painted black. They are actually about an inch longer than 16'.

Would regular pine or fir framing be OK as long as I prime and paint all surfaces or seal it? Which is best - painting them or sealing them? And what kind of paint or sealer is recommended?

 

[Bird]

Personally, I wouldn't use anything but treated lumber, but I guess if they were painted, sealed, etc., they might last.

 

[Lazy]

Hi
I need to replace the boards on my 16 ft trailer also. I will be using treated lumber, the cost is not that much more and it will last a lot longer even without painting. the boards on mine are 2x12's and the metal strip at the front of the trailer will have to be removed. I plan on washing the welds out with a torch and then re-welding after the boards are installed. can't see any other way to replace the boards.

Charlie

 

[Alan L.]

If I use treated boards I wonder if I should paint them, or will they even hold paint? The biggest problem I have had with treated lumber is it wants to warp a lot. I guess that shouldn't be a problem if they are screwed down good but my plans are to use only one row of screws about the middle, whereas there are two rows now.

In an earlier thread several months ago, some on here were saying the boards could be replaced by using a 4 by 4 block to bow the middle of the boards to get them in under the metal straps. Seems like the first few would go in diagonally and then the rest would have to be bowed. I don't know if that is possible or not, but I figured to find out before investing in the proper equipment to cut the strap out and weld it back. We'll find out definitively whether or not it can be done, or at least if I can do it.

 

[rdln]

Do you have lumber mills in the area? Look for rough sawn oak, or t&g seawall boards

 

[ronjhall]

Alan
Be careful with the latest treated wood. It can be very corrosive to bare metal fasteners and the trailer frame if not properly protected.
Stainless Steel screws are best with Galvanized being second. You may be able to find some lumberyards that stock the old CCA treated wood for your project.
Here is a link to information ACQ treated wood. Click Here

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I use treated boards I wonder if I should paint them, or will they even hold paint? The biggest problem I have had with treated lumber is it wants to warp a lot. I guess that shouldn't be a problem if they are screwed down good but my plans are to use only one row of screws about the middle, whereas there are two rows now.

In an earlier thread several months ago, some on here were saying the boards could be replaced by using a 4 by 4 block to bow the middle of the boards to get them in under the metal straps. Seems like the first few would go in diagonally and then the rest would have to be bowed. I don't know if that is possible or not, but I figured to find out before investing in the proper equipment to cut the strap out and weld it back. We'll find out definitively whether or not it can be done, or at least if I can do it. )</font>

Alan... it's probably going to be a pain in the butt not to cut off the angle at the end of the trailer. I've refloored several and have found it best to cut off the angle iron at the end, replace your boards and weld the angle back up. Set all the boards in that you can and if you have a warped one or two just put them together angling up in a V shape and step on them. They will normally fall into place if you put enough weight on them. I would definately use treated lumber... they should last a long time and there will not be any need to paint them. I would also advise to screw them down in several places.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

East of Atoka OK is a lumber mill. I've got the number somewhere. Run. Don't walk away from treated, untreated, or pine in general. You'll find the oak at that mill cheaper than pine at the box store and it will outlive the pine by mulitpliers of at least five.

Just whatever you do don't stop for breakfast at Mickey D's in Atoka. I don't know how they're able to keep a franchise.

You will find you can either remove the angle at the end of the trailer or you can remove the cover strap at the front. If you don't want to weld it back you can use carriage bolts and it will be fine.

Seriously, no pine, rough cut oak, and it's a nice drive up there, straight up seventy five to Atoka then east on a state hwy and the place is on your right.

BTW when you going to pick up your memory stone?

 

[ns_in_tex]

I have had pretty good luck using treated pine, but every few years, I mop it with a good coat of used motor oil.

 

[Alan L.]

Hey, Harv... I didn't know I had a memory stone. Somehow I thought that was done for the guys that made it to the final bridge rock install down in the hill country. I could detour over there some morning on the way to work or something and get it. I don't want to miss out!

I'd really like to have the number for the lumber mill if you run across it. Or I should be able to find it - how many lumber mills could there be in Atoka? . If I can get the oak for a reasonable price that would seem to be the way to go.

Funny, I need the trailer to carry the lumber since 16' is kinda long to stick out the back of a short-bed pickup. Guess I need to fix the trailer lights first. Its always something......