Replacing boards on trailer

[Alan L.]

I have a 16' trailer that I transport my tractor on. About 25% of the boards are rotten and need to be replaced. Based on earlier threads, I will first attempt to replace them without the use of a welder or cutting torch.

My questions is, what type of lumber is recommended? They look like regular 2 by 6 framing lumber that was painted black. They are actually about an inch longer than 16'.

Would regular pine or fir framing be OK as long as I prime and paint all surfaces or seal it? Which is best - painting them or sealing them? And what kind of paint or sealer is recommended?

 

[Bird]

Personally, I wouldn't use anything but treated lumber, but I guess if they were painted, sealed, etc., they might last.

 

[Lazy]

Hi
I need to replace the boards on my 16 ft trailer also. I will be using treated lumber, the cost is not that much more and it will last a lot longer even without painting. the boards on mine are 2x12's and the metal strip at the front of the trailer will have to be removed. I plan on washing the welds out with a torch and then re-welding after the boards are installed. can't see any other way to replace the boards.

Charlie

 

[Alan L.]

If I use treated boards I wonder if I should paint them, or will they even hold paint? The biggest problem I have had with treated lumber is it wants to warp a lot. I guess that shouldn't be a problem if they are screwed down good but my plans are to use only one row of screws about the middle, whereas there are two rows now.

In an earlier thread several months ago, some on here were saying the boards could be replaced by using a 4 by 4 block to bow the middle of the boards to get them in under the metal straps. Seems like the first few would go in diagonally and then the rest would have to be bowed. I don't know if that is possible or not, but I figured to find out before investing in the proper equipment to cut the strap out and weld it back. We'll find out definitively whether or not it can be done, or at least if I can do it.

 

[rdln]

Do you have lumber mills in the area? Look for rough sawn oak, or t&g seawall boards

 

[ronjhall]

Alan
Be careful with the latest treated wood. It can be very corrosive to bare metal fasteners and the trailer frame if not properly protected.
Stainless Steel screws are best with Galvanized being second. You may be able to find some lumberyards that stock the old CCA treated wood for your project.
Here is a link to information ACQ treated wood. Click Here

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I use treated boards I wonder if I should paint them, or will they even hold paint? The biggest problem I have had with treated lumber is it wants to warp a lot. I guess that shouldn't be a problem if they are screwed down good but my plans are to use only one row of screws about the middle, whereas there are two rows now.

In an earlier thread several months ago, some on here were saying the boards could be replaced by using a 4 by 4 block to bow the middle of the boards to get them in under the metal straps. Seems like the first few would go in diagonally and then the rest would have to be bowed. I don't know if that is possible or not, but I figured to find out before investing in the proper equipment to cut the strap out and weld it back. We'll find out definitively whether or not it can be done, or at least if I can do it. )</font>

Alan... it's probably going to be a pain in the butt not to cut off the angle at the end of the trailer. I've refloored several and have found it best to cut off the angle iron at the end, replace your boards and weld the angle back up. Set all the boards in that you can and if you have a warped one or two just put them together angling up in a V shape and step on them. They will normally fall into place if you put enough weight on them. I would definately use treated lumber... they should last a long time and there will not be any need to paint them. I would also advise to screw them down in several places.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

East of Atoka OK is a lumber mill. I've got the number somewhere. Run. Don't walk away from treated, untreated, or pine in general. You'll find the oak at that mill cheaper than pine at the box store and it will outlive the pine by mulitpliers of at least five.

Just whatever you do don't stop for breakfast at Mickey D's in Atoka. I don't know how they're able to keep a franchise.

You will find you can either remove the angle at the end of the trailer or you can remove the cover strap at the front. If you don't want to weld it back you can use carriage bolts and it will be fine.

Seriously, no pine, rough cut oak, and it's a nice drive up there, straight up seventy five to Atoka then east on a state hwy and the place is on your right.

BTW when you going to pick up your memory stone?

 

[ns_in_tex]

I have had pretty good luck using treated pine, but every few years, I mop it with a good coat of used motor oil.

 

[Alan L.]

Hey, Harv... I didn't know I had a memory stone. Somehow I thought that was done for the guys that made it to the final bridge rock install down in the hill country. I could detour over there some morning on the way to work or something and get it. I don't want to miss out!

I'd really like to have the number for the lumber mill if you run across it. Or I should be able to find it - how many lumber mills could there be in Atoka? . If I can get the oak for a reasonable price that would seem to be the way to go.

Funny, I need the trailer to carry the lumber since 16' is kinda long to stick out the back of a short-bed pickup. Guess I need to fix the trailer lights first. Its always something......

 

[Soundguy]

I replaced the boards on my 16 ' car hauler. It had some sort o untreated lumber on it that lasted a year from purchase. i replaced it with treaded lumber, and then promptly painted it with black asphalt fence paint with a roler. That was um,. over 3ys ago.. wood is still strong.. none rotten yet.

As long as the trailer was built correctly.. you won't need the torch. there should be enough lip to slid e the board in and drop down, then center with about a half to and inch under each lip.

Soundguy

 

[bgott]

I replaced the boards in my 16 footer a few months ago and bowing the boards would be a major PITA. Using a 4x4 as a fulcrum to bend the board sounds great in theory, but how are you going to wiggle it out of the way once the board is bent? I was going to use a bottle jack from underneath but then you need someone to stand on the board to bend it, someone to work it into position and someone to crawl under the trailer to release the jack. Just cut the angle off of the back with a Sawsall and a grinder, fit the boards, strap them down and tow the trailer to a welder to re-weld the angle iron. On mine they had cut down the boards on the end to fit under the angle iron the last time it was refloored, so watch for little suprises as you take it apart. Harv has the right idea with the rough cut oak, once you get the boards it wouldn't hurt to soak them with some oil based paint top and bottom before installation. I used pressure treated because I got in a jam and needed the trailer right away, the boards are warped every which a way. Most of the ads I see for trailers state that their beds are built out of salted pine, whatever that means. Here in Houston that means that the bed is going to rot out in three years or less. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I noticed that you figured the first boards would go in diagonally. If the board is long enough to fit under the edges of the angle iron front and rear you definitely are not going to get it to turn. They will have to go in straight. The purpose of using the angle iron on the ends is so you don't have to use screws. Screws in the middle of the deck just give you a place for water to enter the wood. At least thats what I've been told. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[wroughtn_harv]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hey, Harv... I didn't know I had a memory stone. Somehow I thought that was done for the guys that made it to the final bridge rock install down in the hill country. I could detour over there some morning on the way to work or something and get it. I don't want to miss out!)</font>

Heck Alan if you didn't earn a stone your wife sure did! I think she was having more fun than anyone else. She gave TXdon a run for his money in the enthusiasm department.

Everyone that was there the twenty fifth gets a stone. You, Ganzer, Bob, etc are starting to hurt my tender little feelings. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif The two thinnest and lightest ones are destined for travel out west. But the others are looking for their owners.

The guys in Atoka told me to seal the oak with used motor oil and it would last forever. I won't do that because I often use the trailer for a welding table. And I really like the trailer.

 

[HUCKthe1]

White oak is what you want to use over red if you are going to use oak. White oak is almost water proof and not much need to water proof it like red oak. It is what ship builders used when available. You will most likely have to go to a saw mill for sure to get these and might have to search around for the white oak.

If for chance you decided on the pressure treated wood, make sure the steel is well painted to protect from the caustics that may leach out from the treatment.

 

[beersngars]

I agree with the oak. As mentioned above, the treated stuff is very corrosive. I bowed the boards and had no cutting or welding. It was a two man operation, but not that hard with a floor jack.

 

[NFA Fun]

I used 2x8 Doug Fir with no knots. Laid it out to dry out good (about 20 minutes here in AZ ) and then coated all sides with a log home oil. Looks good and works well.

 

[rback33]

Just thought I would give you guys the heads up that it is generally considered poor forum etiquette to bring up 2 1/2 year old threads.

 

[radman1]

Yikes! This post is very old. May be he is ready to replace to wood again?

 

[ragkar]

My 5x10 utility trailer is at the shop right now having the floor boards replaced. An angle grinder will remove most of the welds on the metal hold down but a cutting torch is needed for those in the corners.
I checked the website of the manufacturer of my trailer and yellow pine is standard for the boards. Treated oak is an extra cost option.

 

[bx24]

I would recommend treated wood for the price and seal all 6 sides with a solid stain deck sealer (especially the ends that soak up a lot of sealer) before putting them on. The solid pigment holds up a lot longer than the clear.