Replacing boards on trailer

[Soundguy]

I replaced the boards on my 16 ' car hauler. It had some sort o untreated lumber on it that lasted a year from purchase. i replaced it with treaded lumber, and then promptly painted it with black asphalt fence paint with a roler. That was um,. over 3ys ago.. wood is still strong.. none rotten yet.

As long as the trailer was built correctly.. you won't need the torch. there should be enough lip to slid e the board in and drop down, then center with about a half to and inch under each lip.

Soundguy

 

[bgott]

I replaced the boards in my 16 footer a few months ago and bowing the boards would be a major PITA. Using a 4x4 as a fulcrum to bend the board sounds great in theory, but how are you going to wiggle it out of the way once the board is bent? I was going to use a bottle jack from underneath but then you need someone to stand on the board to bend it, someone to work it into position and someone to crawl under the trailer to release the jack. Just cut the angle off of the back with a Sawsall and a grinder, fit the boards, strap them down and tow the trailer to a welder to re-weld the angle iron. On mine they had cut down the boards on the end to fit under the angle iron the last time it was refloored, so watch for little suprises as you take it apart. Harv has the right idea with the rough cut oak, once you get the boards it wouldn't hurt to soak them with some oil based paint top and bottom before installation. I used pressure treated because I got in a jam and needed the trailer right away, the boards are warped every which a way. Most of the ads I see for trailers state that their beds are built out of salted pine, whatever that means. Here in Houston that means that the bed is going to rot out in three years or less. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I noticed that you figured the first boards would go in diagonally. If the board is long enough to fit under the edges of the angle iron front and rear you definitely are not going to get it to turn. They will have to go in straight. The purpose of using the angle iron on the ends is so you don't have to use screws. Screws in the middle of the deck just give you a place for water to enter the wood. At least thats what I've been told. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[wroughtn_harv]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hey, Harv... I didn't know I had a memory stone. Somehow I thought that was done for the guys that made it to the final bridge rock install down in the hill country. I could detour over there some morning on the way to work or something and get it. I don't want to miss out!)</font>

Heck Alan if you didn't earn a stone your wife sure did! I think she was having more fun than anyone else. She gave TXdon a run for his money in the enthusiasm department.

Everyone that was there the twenty fifth gets a stone. You, Ganzer, Bob, etc are starting to hurt my tender little feelings. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif The two thinnest and lightest ones are destined for travel out west. But the others are looking for their owners.

The guys in Atoka told me to seal the oak with used motor oil and it would last forever. I won't do that because I often use the trailer for a welding table. And I really like the trailer.

 

[HUCKthe1]

White oak is what you want to use over red if you are going to use oak. White oak is almost water proof and not much need to water proof it like red oak. It is what ship builders used when available. You will most likely have to go to a saw mill for sure to get these and might have to search around for the white oak.

If for chance you decided on the pressure treated wood, make sure the steel is well painted to protect from the caustics that may leach out from the treatment.

 

[beersngars]

I agree with the oak. As mentioned above, the treated stuff is very corrosive. I bowed the boards and had no cutting or welding. It was a two man operation, but not that hard with a floor jack.

 

[NFA Fun]

I used 2x8 Doug Fir with no knots. Laid it out to dry out good (about 20 minutes here in AZ ) and then coated all sides with a log home oil. Looks good and works well.

 

[rback33]

Just thought I would give you guys the heads up that it is generally considered poor forum etiquette to bring up 2 1/2 year old threads.

 

[radman1]

Yikes! This post is very old. May be he is ready to replace to wood again?

 

[ragkar]

My 5x10 utility trailer is at the shop right now having the floor boards replaced. An angle grinder will remove most of the welds on the metal hold down but a cutting torch is needed for those in the corners.
I checked the website of the manufacturer of my trailer and yellow pine is standard for the boards. Treated oak is an extra cost option.

 

[bx24]

I would recommend treated wood for the price and seal all 6 sides with a solid stain deck sealer (especially the ends that soak up a lot of sealer) before putting them on. The solid pigment holds up a lot longer than the clear.