Replacing the forward reverse shuttle in a montana 3040 and clutch

[spokane 1]

You might be able to compare my tractor job and the photos of the end of the shaft to the forward gear placement. just roll your nut up within ( a 1/8th inch) to load the trannys together..im sure it'll be fine. But before you roll shafts or shift gears this nut needs to be snugged tight then backed off...then re tightened to minimal tightness. 10-20 inch lbs. "DONT side load that spud bearing very much".

damit....its hard to see those shadow lines without magnifying glass on that nut. (still in a quandary how it stripped?) did you test the shaft movement forward and reverse in the rear axle
i don't think those shafts should move much ...the nut is supposed to drive the forward gear back just far enough to seat the roller bearing in its cup. They made this adjustable for the differences in gasket goo. its merely thousands of movement.

good job so far.....just move slow. I always move slow......simply because i was born in the 50s.LOL

 

[spokane 1]

You might be able to compare my tractor job and the photos of the end of the shaft to the forward gear placement. just roll your nut up within ( a 1/8th inch) to load the trannys together..im sure it'll be fine. But before you roll shafts or shift gears this nut needs to be snugged tight then backed off...then re tightened to minimal tightness. 10-20 inch lbs. "DONT side load that spud bearing very much".

damit....its hard to see those shadow lines without magnifying glass on that nut. (still in a quandary how it stripped?) did you test the shaft movement forward and reverse in the rear axle
i don't think those shafts should move much ...the nut is supposed to drive the forward gear back just far enough to seat the roller bearing in its cup. They made this adjustable for the differences in gasket goo. its merely thousands of movement.

good job so far.....just move slow. I always move slow......simply because i was born in the 50s.LOL

 

[spokane 1]

hit the plus setting for instructions..in white type.

 

[bones1]

You were correct on that pto being cocked, it was.
new pic of it now




Also, did you put sealer around this large bottom hole that the 4wd shaft does through?. I see the seal at the shaft but mine had rtv black around the hole. I dont think its necessary.

 

[spokane 1]

It may not be necessary...but BUT BUT........its a 20 hour tour if it leaks.
so yes put it there....

if you don't surround all surfaces with the silicone and then tighten the bolts it could crack the case where no sticky goo is placed. in this case......GOO is good. Try to keep it even.
be liberal with it use lots of it.....and don't start smearing it until everything to marry the 2 trannys is within hands reach.....atv sealer only has a certain working time it doesn't wait for scattered forks,, bolts,, wrenches or guys having to go to the bathroom. It'll skin over and then your screwed. (I had to peel mine once before we figured out the fork trick).

It depends on the weather I think you guys in Maryland or DC are much warmer over there.but you have roughly 15 minutes to spread the goo and marry the tyranny before it skins over.

 

[bones1]

Got a little done today and with no helper it was a bit tricky. I next have to tighten that large nut next.

 

[spokane 1]

Got a little done today and with no helper it was a bit tricky. I next have to tighten that large nut next.
View attachment 510648

View attachment 510649

Am i seeing what I see? its married?

you did that all by yourself.....Holy ****

Well now for the big nut......tighten it down tight (but dont reef it.) roll the shaft a bit(shake and pry on it a little.) then crack the nut loose and then reverse course tighten again.take it down 10-20 inch lbs...just finger tight basically.
you can see the large groove in the shaft and the collar on the nut...this is where and when and how you stake it....take a nice thick roll pin punch and hit that collar into the groove.

then enjoy 20 more hours of assembly before your drive it ..LOL ill bet your seasoned warrior by now being your 2nd trip to splitting this thing.

Im impressed......good job well done bones.....

did you roll all shafts and try all the gears to check for bind? and did you silicone the 4x4 driveshaft hole?

Bones........sweep all that crap out of the tranny.......air compressor and brake clean that sucker you got crap allover inside. this will mess you up faster than you can imagine is dirt.

well enjoy your Saturday ill bet you'll be farming by then......

smiles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[spokane 1]

bones Id like for you to double check those detentes orientation.....in the photos you have the F-R shiftier in first gear it appears the horns are up..???.go to you top main shaft and click the range selector in gear and check the detentes on the top shaft....the bump should be up not the horns?

its been a long time since my tour thru the tranny...I could be wrong but please double check. are the detentes in backward....OMG?

 

[bones1]

Thanks for the help again. I'll take care of that nut tonight and check the detents. I can only see one detent that I installed because I can't rotate that gear over, the rear tires try to move. I am sure I put them in with the bump out.Shifting from forward to reverse is rough but it does go in. I attribute that to all new parts I hope.I think when it's running it should be smoother, I hope. I siliconed around the 4x4 shaft hole as well. I just don't like the roughness of the f/r shift but it's a whole lot better than what I started with .

 

[spokane 1]

Nothing should be rough...I specifically looked at your only detent showing it appeared horns up this leaves the center bump down.

the center bump detente is supposed to ride in the over-shift pocket center pocket to keep it in neutral.

please refer to your upper 1-2-3-4 shaft click a over shift in any speed gear and then compare the detentes it should look identical between the 2.

this is not a big deal to separate the tranny again should they be fouled. you don't have to walk the whole thing out....since you have the tops off you should be able to reach into the guts and flip the detentes should they be wrong.

but yes your silicone job is toast.. and yes you'll probably drive the pin out on the fork again......I assume this should take about 45 mins to a hour if its fouled up.
but re-staking that fork pin inside will be a doosey.

as for nut access just buy a throw away wrench and cut the open end off where you need it....re weld it at a full 90 to the box end.. to get under the top shaft.
this thing does not need lots of torque..just finger tight....after its seated..

its a long weekend get it right dude!