Resealing older metal roof. Vinyl?

[CliffordK]

We built our barn with a wood frame and painted corrugated steel 40 years ago. Constructed with nails and neoprene washers (which likely are mighty old by now). Overall the metal is in pretty good shape, although we lost a couple of pieces of fiberglass a couple of years ago.

Anyway, for many years there have been quite a few drips. I really don't remember how bad it was 40 years ago, although at that time we had a full loft so the main floor was fairly protected.

I assume there is a component of condensation, but also drips around the nails.

Mom got the idea that the roof could be covered with vinyl. I hadn't heard of that process. Anybody?

If it is like applying car wrap, then I can't imagine it could last more than 5 years or so, especially on the south side.

Closed Cell Spray Foam might be an option from inside. It would help with sealing, but it could also hide huge problems.

 

[jyoutz]

I have seen old corrugated metal roofs coated with a thick aluminum paint coating. The aluminum roof paint has fiberglass fibers. It goes on thick and fills small holes and cracks. This should do the trick.

Rust-Oleum 5 Gal. 7-Year Fibered Aluminum Reflective Roof Coating 301997 - The Home Depot

Rust-Oleum 7-year Fibered Aluminum Roof Coating is a metallic pigmented coating used for rustproofing and weatherproofing metal roofs and sidewalls. It can be used as a reflective coating for Built-Up,

www.homedepot.com

They also have longer lasting coatings.

 

[riptides]

I have had really good luck with the Henry line of products. Both the fiber and regular aluminum paints. But, I painstakingly sealed each nail or screw hole with a dab of roofing sealer before I applied the Henry products.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Personally I would replace each nail with sheet metal roofing screws.

 

[Streetcar]

I have seen old corrugated metal roofs coated with a thick aluminum paint coating. The aluminum roof paint has fiberglass fibers. It goes on thick and fills small holes and cracks. This should do the trick.

Rust-Oleum 5 Gal. 7-Year Fibered Aluminum Reflective Roof Coating 301997 - The Home Depot

Rust-Oleum 7-year Fibered Aluminum Roof Coating is a metallic pigmented coating used for rustproofing and weatherproofing metal roofs and sidewalls. It can be used as a reflective coating for Built-Up,

www.homedepot.com

They also have longer lasting coatings.

I did this and roof was leak free until I sold property after about fifteen years

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

I am currently replacing all the nails in my old barn.

Theres roughly 1000 iirc

Been doing it little by little for the last 3 years.

In the heat of the summer, when the metal pops them loose it's really easy

 

[riptides]

I am currently replacing all the nails in my old barn.

Theres roughly 1000 iirc

Been doing it little by little for the last 3 years.

In the heat of the summer, when the metal pops them loose it's really easy

My roof had to be worked on in the early AM. And I needed sun glasses because of the silver paint reflection.

It was a job....

 

[drizler]

Even at 40 years old, it shouldn’t even be close to beginning to start the leak with the exception of your nail holes. having used both I wouldn’t go near nails again if you gave them to me. I just took a garage roof 6 years ago that I built in 1990 roughly. The seals under those common seal washered galvanized screws were all in perfect condition. Of course the sun can’t get at the edges of them like a nail head seal because the washer has a cap shape.
For the quick and easy you might just try using that mobile home roof sealer in the 5 gallon pail. It’s aluminum colored or was and has the consistency of roof ceiling tar or driveway patch. I use that on an old mobile home years ago and it seem to work just fine. It seemed the last at least 10 years with no issues that I could see all you really have to do is plaster the nail heads to put that stuff on.
The other alternative is wherever you think you have leaks, just pull the nails and replace with seal head screws and perhaps a dollop of sealer if there’s a bit of a wrinkle in the tin from pulling the nail. It’s slow, but it should do the job for you quite well.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

I did the pull the nail and rtv trick at first

I did it a few times and it was hit or miss. Plus some of the holes are worn out and nails are corroded

Pulling the nails and doing screws fixes it 100%

 

[newbury]

I did similar to what rip did, and probably need to redo it.
CRITICAL FACTORS
Mississippi
Very gently sloping metal roof
Screws w/ rubber washers
BAD BACK AND POOR KNEES

I'd take:
A big push broom (lot's of leaves and pine needles)
my $5 walmart plastic lawn chair (now $15)
a bucket of suds w/ bristle brush and two squirt bottles, one with suds, one w/clean water
an old towel
Either:
a. a gallon of Henry roofing sealant with a pointed trowel
or
b. A caulking gun with said sealant

Lot's of cold lemonade (save adult beverages for OFF roof)
Radio/MP3 player

Procedure was:
In reasonable weather get all the stuff on the roof
Turn on the sound
Brush off large section of roof
Sit in the chair,
Squirt screws I could easily reach w/ suds
Bend over and scrub clean w/ scrub brush and suds, squirt clean
move on to let dry
Be sure to sip some lemonade
repeat

Do as many screws as I felt like, then go back and start sealing, staying hydrated.

It was about 50:50 as to which was more efficient, daubing with the trowel or squirting with the caulk gun.

Took a lot of time, but great view, great weather, pleasant tunes, no major hassles, only big cost was my time.

 

[ponytug]

I like the Henry Tropicool.

I bring a board or plywood, or a piece of 1/8 metal along to pull nails. Many of the nails here are screw nails that work loose enough to leak, but are still in there pretty good. I find the plywood spreads the force of the crowbar and makes the nail pulling quick, without damaging the corrugated metal. For the wallowed nail holes, I put a dab of the Henry's product into the hole and then screw it down and then more Henry's on top.

I try to do it not in full sun, and only when there is no condensation on the metal...

All the best,

Peter

 

[CliffordK]

Thanks,

That sounds like a LOT OF NAILS. 40x60, I think, or larger with the lean-to sides.

Roofing is all white, and the paint has held up well.

It was a couple of years ago when I replaced the broken sheets of fiberglass with polycarbonate. At that time I didn't want to stand on the metal so I put 2x6 boards in the valleys to work from. I don't know if it was necessary, but it made me comfortable.

I found this with a quick search.

Nail puller attachment for a slide hammer

I have to remove a couple of nailed down metal roof panels next week to repair leaks. Now if you've ever tried to remove those ring shank sealing nails without damaging the metal you know why I made this. Every other type of nail remover depends on leverage and if you use them on the highs of...

www.hobby-machinist.com

It looks like he combined a hoof trimmer and a slide hammer.

 

[jyoutz]

Thanks,

That sounds like a LOT OF NAILS. 40x60, I think, or larger with the lean-to sides.

Roofing is all white, and the paint has held up well.

It was a couple of years ago when I replaced the broken sheets of fiberglass with polycarbonate. At that time I didn't want to stand on the metal so I put 2x6 boards in the valleys to work from. I don't know if it was necessary, but it made me comfortable.

I found this with a quick search.

Nail puller attachment for a slide hammer

I have to remove a couple of nailed down metal roof panels next week to repair leaks. Now if you've ever tried to remove those ring shank sealing nails without damaging the metal you know why I made this. Every other type of nail remover depends on leverage and if you use them on the highs of...

www.hobby-machinist.com

It looks like he combined a hoof trimmer and a slide hammer.

I know that screws are better than nails for roofing, but if the nails are still tight, I would get some Henry’s roofing tar in a caulking gun and just glue all the nails in and seal around them. Let cure, then go over the roof with the fibered aluminum paint.

 

[CliffordK]

I haven't looked at it closely. From the ground I can see at least the last row of nails in the lean-to is very loose.

At least some of the nails were put in the rib peaks which should help prevent large flows of water entering them, but also makes them less secure. It might also allow caulking from below.

 

[Rockbadchild]

If you carefully step where the nails are its safe. It's lots of nails but how would you secure anything on top ? that would be the same amount of work

 

[CliffordK]

If you carefully step where the nails are its safe. It's lots of nails but how would you secure anything on top ? that would be the same amount of work

With my 2x6's for walking, I just laid them between the ribs, and they stayed in place with friction. I presume I had 20 footers. There may be a mix of rib nails and gutter nails, so I'm not sure what was in that section of roof.

If one wanted to do both sides simultaneously, one could tie the scaffold boards at the middle.

This all is beginning to sound like a lot of work!!! I did pick up a standing seam roofing machine. But, simply replacing or sealing the nails would be a lot less work than replacing the whole roof.

 

[grsthegreat]

A few years ago i had the roof replaced on my house. At the same time i had the roofer pull allthe old screws and washers on my 30 yo shop roof and replace all the screws with next size larger and longer. All watertight again.
than had them pull barn metal roof off and remove old crappy white batt insulation, plywood the roof, add moisture barrier and replace old 25 yo metal roof with bigger and longer screws.
way, way less expensive as new roof. And metal is still in great shape, only a bit faded.