Restarting My '70 Nova Project

[BravoXray]

Still working on the wiring. I have been installing four modules to add some more modern features, and that involved a lot more running wires, making connections with existing circuits and figuring out in general just how to connect everything so it works.
I added a remote door and trunk unlock receiver, a dome light controller, a delayed radio power off module and an intermittent/delayed wiper controller.
Today I worked on finishing up all the connections to the modules and making the harness to connect the harness to the instrument cluster, and of course the first wire I installed in the cluster connector shell was in the wrong slot. But I was able to get the connector out and into the correct position.
A couple of times I had to walk away from it I was getting so confused about how and where everything needed to be connected, but I think I have it all correct now. I've printed out lots of circuit diagrams and made a lot of notes to try to keep everything straight.
Tomorrow I think I'm going to plug in the ignition switch, the headlight switch, radio and wiper motor then hook a battery up to the firewall connector and see if those items work as they should. If they do, then I'll move on to another project on the car.

 

[BravoXray]

Still working on the wiring. Had it pretty well finished up and decided to connect the battery to the bulkhead harness to check a few things out before I went any farther.
When I applied power, the dome and courtesy lights came on, as they should with the doors offf and the door switches closed. So I unhooked both switches and the lights stayed on. I had installed a dome light dimmer module from Revolution Electronics, and the module was getting mildly warm, so I disconnected the power. I double checked all the connections and they are correct. After applying and removing power a few times I determined the module was grounding the white wire that connects to the lightss, making the lights stay on. I'm going to call Revolution in the next couple of days to see what they say.
I also plugged in the headlight switch and it is sending power to all the proper connections on the bulkhead connector, the dimmer switch works properly and I'm getting power to the proper wires in the rear light harness, so that's encouraging.
Since I decided not to go with the Dakota Digital dash, $1500 is out of the question, and I'm using the original instrument cluster, I'm also going to reinstall the 3 gauge panel that was in the car when I bought it. But after some thought, I decided to replace the 2 5/8" Autometer mechanical oil pressure and temperature gauges with electric gauges, so I wouldn't have to run an oil line and the temperature line through the firewall. I can use the existing wires for the idiot lights by removing the bulbs so they don't affect the circuit resistance. When looking for new gauges on Summit Racing, I found some with a Chevy bow tie on the faces, so I bought three of them. They were delivered today and they look great. I'll get them switched into the panel in the next couple of days, after I get the heater assembled and mounted.
I decided that since I had to replace the rusted out heater box, I would switch to a big block setup wit hte heater outlets moved out toward the fender for more clearance. I got the proper case, cover and heater core, but the core retainer clips do not fit. They are different form the SB clips, but after buying tow sets for a BB setup, neither will fit. So, I spent a couple of hours today fabricatng some out of some 16 gauge metal. They will hold the core in position using the original holes in the heater housing.
Today I put the heater box together and will check the fit for the last time before I install it, because I need to paint it first. I don't know what kind of paint the manufacturer used, but I lef a fresh shop towel laying on it one night and it destroyed the pain where it made contact. I have some SEM Hot Rod black and will use that so it matches the dash. Going to do the same to the ash tray and glove box lid.
I also decided to mount the new gauges in the three hole bracket, but that turned into a goat rodeo too. You would think a 2 5/8" Autometer gauge would fit in an Autometer bracket with 2 5/8" holes, nut no, they won't. Well, I Suppose you could force them in, since the cases are plastic and not metal like the old ones were. So I had to spend a half hour with a die grinder enlarging all three holes. And since I damaged the paint on the face in a couple of places, I bead blasted and painted that. It was still wet so I couldn't install the gauges, but I did get them all wired up with a harness that plugs into the main harness. And on inspection, the bracket has a run on it, so I'll repaint it tomorrow, again.

 

[BravoXray]

Went down to the shop this morning before going to breakfast, bead blasted the gauge bracket and gave it another coat of paint, without any runs this time.
This afternoon I mounted the gauge bracket and ash tray, the bracket mounts to the bottom two screws on the ash tray. Got the gauges installed and all the wires and lights hooked up to them. With the harness I used, all I had to do on the other end was plug it into the main harness. I jumpered the ignition switch connector and the oil and water gauges came off the pegs and the voltmeter read about 13 bolts. Turned the parking lights on and the backlights came on too.
I also hooked the trunk release up to the rear harness, and it works. At first it didn't but out turns out you have to hold the button on the remote for 5 seconds or so for it to activate.
I removed the dome light dimer module after I verified all the connections were correct, and thought I'd look for one from another manufacturer. While looking on Amazon I ran across another one that looked familiar, and it said I had purchased one back in March! Now I do remember getting it, because it even has a WIFI interface with a phone app to program the onboard features. But, I have no idea where I put it. I've been through almost every box of parts for the Nova, but don't remember seeing it. More searching will be done tomorrow.

Where is it?

 

[dodge man]

Wiring has always been tough. I hate electrical problems but it looks like you going to have some nice upgrades.

 

[BravoXray]

Okay, I found the dimmer module, it was on my desk in the shop almost hidden, but in plain sight. I think I'm going to make up a harness with a connector to connect it to the cars harness, that way if it doesn't work or I want to remove it, I can disconnect it and I'll have a replacement connector I can plug in to restore the wiring to normal operation.
I did work on installing the speakers in the rear deck, got both installed and connected to the wires from the radio.
I took the heater box apart, and a friend is going to paint the heater box and the blower box with SEM Hot Rod Black paint I bought to match the dash and firewall.
Not sure how much I will get done this coming week, as it's supposed to get into the 90s for most of the week, and I don't function well in the heat. Would be nice to have A/C in the shop, but that's not going to happen.

 

[dodge man]

I’ve got one of those portably units in my garage. It has a hose that vents the hot air out a window with a hose. It looks like a large dehumidifier. It doesn’t keep it real cool but if it’s 95 outside the shop would be about 80.

 

[BravoXray]

Yesterday I plugged the radio in and hooked up a spare antenna to it. I jumpered the ignition switch connector and it came on and works fine. It's a Retro Sounds unit and has a dongle with an SD card slot and a USB connector to play music ripped from a CD, which is a nice feature. Sounds pretty good with all four speakers working.
I worked on the wiring again this afternoon. I hooked the new
dome light dimmer up using several jumper wires, the ones with
alligator clips on both ends, and it works just like it should. I
disconnected it, then connected the first one I had to the same
wires, and it kept the dome lights on all the time, so it's definitely
defective. I went through the return process on Amazon, and it's boxed up ready to put in the mail tomorrow morning. As soon as the connectors I ordered from American Auto Wire come, I'll get a harness made up to connect the controller.
I also used the jumper wires to hook up the wiper motor to see
if the intermittent wiper module works, and it does also. Yea!
I think I have come up with a circuit using a diode and a relay
to make the interior lights come on when the doors are unlocked.
I'll make up that circuit and give it a try to see if it will work
like I think it should.
Got pretty warm, but I had a fan on while I was working inside
the car, so it wasn't too bad, but tomorrow's going to be even
hotter than today. May take the day off from working on the car and do a few domestic chores.

 

[BravoXray]

STILL working on the wiring, although I did take a few days off when it was to hot to work in the shop, do a few other domestic chores (laundry, sweeping, pulling weeds, etc.) and mow the yard. After getting over six inches of rain in the last week, it was getting pretty shaggy.
I got the new dome light module wired to a connector and the mating connector wired into the harness. Made a small piece of 16 ga. sheet with holes to mount where the old module went, and used some JB Weld to glue the module to it. After that cured, I screwed it to the old mounting holes and connected it up. A quick trial and it works like it should. By grounding the white wire on the module, it enables a WiFi interface that you can access with a phone app to change the modules parameters, but the defaults are fine at this point.
I was wondering about having the keyless entry system turn on the dome lights when unlocking the doors, and with a 12 volt relay, it was pretty easy. The two wires to the door actuators change polarity when operated, black wire goes positive when locking and the green wire goes positive when unlocking. So I tapped into the green wire, ran it to one side of the relay coil and grounded the other side. Then I connected the common terminal to the sense wire (blue) on the dome light module, and grounded the normally open terminal. So when unlocking the doors, the green wire activates the relay which grounds the sense wire on the dome light module, turning on the dome lights.
I like it!
I'm trying to find a device that makes the "chirp" on some security systems when locking the doors, and hook it up to the black wire. I haven't found one yet.
I also want to add a button, maybe in the glove box, for the trunk release, will be simple to wire up, just have to decide where to mount it.
My friend Brian painted the two metal cases for the heater, using the SEM Hot Rod black, the same paint that the dash was painted with. The paint that was on them was really crappy. I'm going to get it installed this week and maybe finally get to work on the headliner.

 

[BravoXray]

I finally have the wiring in the dash pretty well finished, I think. I got a push button switch installed above the e-brake release that operates the trunk release. Could be a handy addition.
Yesterday I worked on the wiring for the wiper motor, got all the wires trimmed to length and terminals installed. Tried out the intermittent wiper function, and it works like it should. An interesting thing is that when you move the switch to the off position, it almost stops but starts up again. The reason is that the park function is made by a switch that keeps power to the motor until it gets to the park position, and with no wipers to provide a load to the motor, it coasts past the area where is supposed to stop and starts up to go back around to park again, and gets stuck in that loop. Applying some drag on the linkage makes it stop in the parked position.
I got the heater assembled and installed this afternoon. Brian stopped by after work and gave me a hand getting the box in and in place, held with a couple of nuts and washers. I put a chunk of 1X4 in between the top of the box and the lower dash rail to hold it in place, and installed the outer blower box. I had to break out the Dremel tool and enlarge one of the holes where a bolt secures it to the firewall below the blower. The rest of the bolts tightened up and it looks good.
I have a new blower motor, but when I held it up to the housing, three of the five mounting holes really don't line up, plus it's larger and has a hole where a tube attaches to supply cooling air to the motor. No tube was supplied, so I'm going to use the original motor. I dug it out, hooked it up to 12 volts and it runs fine. I bead blasted all the old nasty paint off it and gave the outside a new coat of satin black. Tomorrow I'll paint the back side and get it installed.

A little at a time.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Your beautiful car is coming along nicely. I hope you get to enjoy the finished car for a long time, once you get it on the road.
Your attention to detail is awesome.