Restarting My '70 Nova Project

   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#421  
I am surprised your car has a o2 sensor.

The O² sensor is for the MSD fuel injection system and is installed in the collector adapter bolted to the left side header.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #422  
Bleeding Orange beat me to it, but I heard of guys heating a bolt to push though rubber belting on conveyor. Was going to suggest trying something similar on a scrap of carpet. Glad OP got them drilled. Jon
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #423  
The O² sensor is for the MSD fuel injection system and is installed in the collector adapter bolted to the left side header.
Ah Here i'm thinking holley. Fuel injected sounds better!
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#424  
Still pecking away at a few loose ends on the Nova. I got the coil and oil pressure sender hooked up, connected the front and rear sections of the line to the rear brakes, made up a short braided SS hose to connect the front and rear sections of the fuel line, pulled the clutch linkage out so I could get my hands in to tie the O² sensor cable to the transmission cable, put the clutch linkage back in, and dug out the fan I bought long ago and hung it on the water pump. I'm not sure yet if the fan hub extension I have on it is going to be the right length until I get the radiator mounted up.
Yesterday, I pulled the master cylinder off, got it bench bled, bolted it back on the brake booster and hooked up all the lines. I had to go to NAPA and pick up a quart of DOT3 brake fluid, as I only had about an inch left in the quart I had, and it was probably five years old. Brake fluid is highly hydroscopic and I didn't want to take a chance using old contaminated fluid. It took a couple of hours the get all the leaks stopped and all the calipers bled. I had left a plug in the proportioning valve and one in the Line Lock valve loose and both were leaking. Also, a few of lines on the proportioning valve, master cylinder, the connection of the rear hard line to flex line to the rear brakes and Line Lock valve were leaking or seeping. I installed stainless steel brake lines, and you really have to tighten the fittings up or they will leak. I used my home made pressure bleeding tool to find all the leaks and get everything bled. That took about 80% of the quart of brake fluid, and now the brake pedal feels nice and firm.
I have decided to use the right side header as is and not try to move the #4 tube away from the idler arm, as with the dent I made in the tube, it clears the arm by 1/4" or so at full left turn. I think I'll get that mounted up tomorrow and maybe start assembling the rest of the exhaust system. After that, the only thing I need to do under the car is hook up the parking brakes. I'm still pondering on the best way to do that, as the staggered shocks on the rear axle force one caliper to be mounted forward of the axle and one to the rear. This makes hooking up the parking brake cable on the driver's side, the one in front of the axle, take a convoluted path, and I'm trying to figure out a way to correct that. Once that's done, I think I'm going to put the tires on it and either set it on some foot tall stands or just set it on the floor, I haven't decided which yet, to assemble the front end.

Keep your digits warm.

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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #425  
Great write-up and progress report. Really enjoy the pictures as well. When I look at your flex fan, it appears the blade mounts are not evenly spaced. I wonder why they built it that way. Even thou i know that somehow it will be perfectly balanced, my OCD keeps telling my that something isn,t correct there. LOL
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#426  
I'm not sure what the reason is for the odd spacing of the blades, noise reduction or something else. I know my '69 Nova with the 396 375HP engine had a seven blade fan and it made an unmistakable howl at certain RPMs. If you heard that howl come from a Nova, you knew what was under the hood.

The more I work on the Nova, the more I learn about how it and cars in gerneral of that era were made, and what their strengths and weaknesses were. Unlike today's vehicles, they were no more complicated that the needed to be.
 
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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#427  
Still working away at the Nova, though working in the unheated shop limits how much at a time, because I hate working with gloves on, and then my fingers get cold and numb.
I got the exhaust all on, finally. And of course, therein lies a story. I installed the system back to and including the mufflers, and wanted to put on a pair of tailpipes I had gotten a while back that ran out the rear under the bumper, instead of dumping out behind the rear wheels. Pulled the pipes out and saw that they were too long where they attached to the muffler and went up over the axle. I would have to pull the mufflers and X pipe off and shorten the pipe ahead of the mufflers about 4 inches, and then the muffler hangers that came with the system wouldn't work and I'd have to use some others. But, there was enough pipe to cut off the swedge and re-swedge the pipe, and then it would fit just like the other pipes. So, I cut the swedge off, pulled out my shiny new exhaust pipe expander and was able to expand it enough that it almost fit, put it back on and then I got a little carried away. Now the swedge is way to big to be able to get it clamped down on the muffler pipe. :mad:
I was cold and pissed off, so I decided to put the original pipes on until I decide how to fix that screwup. The left side fit fine, but the right side interfered with the fuel line and it's frame bracket. After some looking at the situation, I pulled the fuel line off, shortened it up about 6", re-bent it to come back to to meet the hose from the fuel filter. The braided hose had a 45° fitting where it connected to the fuel line, and I was able to change that to a straight fitting and it connected up just fine. Another kink ironed out.
This afternoon, I decided to put the steering wheel on, so I found the wheel and mounting parts and hopped in the car to install it. After an hour fiddling around with it, I couldn't figure out how it went together, so I gave up and did a few other things in the shop. I put the steering wheel, a Grant 969 3 spoke wheel, on before I tore the care apart to restore it, and I don't have the instruction sheet, or at least I can't find it. I tried to find the instructions online, but haven't been able to. I did see other adapter kits the gave me an idea of how it goes together, so I'll give it another go tomorrow.
I went online to two shops that make driveshafts a couple of weeks ago, and filled out their forms to request a quote for a driveshaft, but have not heard back from either one so far. I remembered there is a shop in South Bend, Kaley's Motor Service, that we used to use to make and repair truck driveshafts back in the 70s and 80s, so I gave them a call. The guy that does the driveline work there said to bring the transmission yoke over and he could have a shaft built in a couple of days, so tomorrow I'm going to go over there and give them the yoke and dimensions to have them make one up. They are cheaper that what I've seen quoted for the online shops, too.
They guy I worked for at a freight brokerage in the 80s and early 90s stopped by this afternoon. He's an old gearhead too, and I had build up a Ford Windsor engine, a 400 inch stroker if I remember correctly, back then for a 70s Ford short bed pickup he had. It turned out pretty strong and he burned up a fair amount of rubber on the back of that old Ford. He said he hadn't seen the car in a while and was there to do an inspection to make sure my work was up the his standards. ;)
After a half hour looking it over, he said it looks okay to him, but once it's running and driving, he'll need a ride in it to give it his full approval. I said I could arrange that.
Once I get the steering wheel on, I'm going to get the radiator support installed, then the fenders and inner fenders. On the inner fenders, I'm going to have to figure out how to staple the rubber mud guards to them like they were from the factory, so that will be another interesting little task. The factory used a staple gun that punched right through the metal and rubber, but I don't have a tool like that.

More later on, stay tuned!

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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #428  
I'm surprised Kaley's could get that done for you so fast. A mechanic friend of mine said they are 9-12 months out on engines, so if they can do the drive shaft that fast, that's great!
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#429  
I'm surprised Kaley's could get that done for you so fast. A mechanic friend of mine said they are 9-12 months out on engines, so if they can do the drive shaft that fast, that's great!
I dropped the trans yoke off today at Kaley's, and Susan said 2 or 3 days. I can imagine building engines would take longer, especially if there are parts on B.O. Could depend a lot on what type of engine it is and what type of parts are needed, like oversize rings or bearings.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #430  
I dropped the trans yoke off today at Kaley's, and Susan said 2 or 3 days. I can imagine building engines would take longer, especially if there are parts on B.O. Could depend a lot on what type of engine it is and what type of parts are needed, like oversize rings or bearings.
Wonderful location, eh? ;)

I'm really surprised they are still there. Glad, but surprised.
 

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