Restarting My '70 Nova Project

   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#431  
Yeah, not the greatest of locations.
Susan was telling that some years back, a storm took the roof off the old building, which was built in the 1920s, so they built a new one. When I left, I went east on Tutt street past where Ace Refrigerated Trucking used to be. I still remember them running those old gas powered, single axle R model Internationals around into the late 70s. They actually had some brand new cabs they had gotten ahold of when IHC quit building them, so they could replace ones that got rusted out of wrecked. They also had several of the Red Diamond engines, probably 450s, all rebuilt and ready to change out when needed.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #432  
Those buildings to the east between Tutt and Sample are experiencing a bunch of activity. Used to be Ziker cleaner owned. Good read here. Nice to see...

 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#433  
A good article about a young man with a vision.

By the way, Susan from Kaley's called around 11:00AM this morning because they had my driveshaft done. She said they were waiting on parts for a couple other jobs and were able to get mine done. I went over this afternoon and picked it up, looks great!
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#435  
I got the driveshaft installed. I was going to paint a barber pole white stripe on it, but after a half hour trying to get tape put on in a decent spiral, my fingers were cold and my patience worn thin, so I gave up and installed it just plain black.
I got the radiator support mounted the the front of the frame, but left the bolts a little loose so I can move it around a little if needed. It sure makes it look more like a car with that on it. It looks like the fan shroud will clear the new fan just fine. Once the fenders are on and the support bolted down, I'll set the new radiator in place and hook up the hoses.
I've been rough fitting the inner fenders on the front end, the right one will be okay, I think, but the left one was hitting the brake lines coming off the Line Lock valve. I studied that a while and ended up moving the lines to the front brakes on the valve. There is a port on the back of the valve, so I moved the line from the center port to that one, and the line from the outside port to the center one. It would still be pretty close, so I pulled the bracket that holds the Line Lock valve on the master cylinder and made a bend, twice, don't ask, to lean it inwards and make a little more room. It should clear just fine now. Bending the plate, twice, messed up the paint on it, so I blasted it off and gave it a new coat of satin black. It should be dry tomorrow, even though it's only 40-45° in the shop. The low temps don't seem to be a problem for the paint to dry, by tomorrow it'll be hard as nails.
I've also been trying to decide how to attach the rubber mud guards that attach to inner fenders. From the factory they are stapled on through the metal, so I decided to try to duplicate that with some .063" stainless steel wire cut and made into staples. I made a drill guide with a couple of 1/16" holes drilled a half inch apart, to use to as a guide for the holes in the inner fenders. Took a little while to get the spacing worked out, but 3 1/2" worked, giving me eight positions for the staples, and I got both inner fenders drilled. Once I get the SS wire from McMaster-Carr, I'll work on those.
I thought I had it figured out how to assemble the steering wheel mount, so I tried that, but that didn't go well. The wire from the horn button goes into a plastic tube with a spring and the brush that makes contact with the slip ring for the horn circuit. I thought there was a little cap that held the wire and spring in the tube, but I didn't find one in the bag of parts, so I pushed the wire in, compressing the spring and when I tried to install the cover plate, it popped out. I found the wire in the back seat, but the spring is MIA. It's probably in the back of the shop lying next to the missing door hinge spring. I think a spring out of a pen will work as a replacement, but I'm going to make some sort of a cap to hold the wire and spring in the tube.

Looks like we have some snow and lots of wind coming in tomorrow, so I might not be working in the shop, we'll see.

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   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #436  
Looking great. If you have time, tell us more about the barber pole painting on the driveshaft. I have never heard of anyone doing that.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#437  
I just thought it would be unusual for anyone that looked under the car to have it painted that way. Years ago I saw a driveshaft on a semi painted like a barber pole and thought it was pretty neat. Another pattern I might consider is a black and white checkerboard like on the bodies of some rockets, that was done to enable monitoring any axial roll of the rocket. Even another pattern would be to paint one longitudinal stripe on it. 180° white and 180° black, that would make any twist in the shaft easy to detect.
After I installed the driveshaft, I had an idea about how to lay out the spiral pattern more easily. I can make a strip of masking paper a few inches wide and wrap that around the shaft to get an even spiral pattern, and then paint the exposed area white. I'll have to experiment to see what width and pitch would look the best. I may still do that.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project #438  
Interesting, thanks for the explanation. Looking forward to seeing some pictures of the spiral painted driveshaft.
 
   / Restarting My '70 Nova Project
  • Thread Starter
#439  
Been working for a few days on getting the rubber mud guards attached to the inner fenders. The factory stapled the rubber flap to the inner fender, so I kinda wanted to replicate that look. The flaps came with staples, but the were pretty chintzy looking, so I bought some .062" stainless wire and made my own staples. I also made a drill guide so I could drill all the holes with the same spacing. After a little trial and error spacing, I got a good spacing to put eight staples in each flap. I drilled all the holes and got the right side done, but when I was working on the right side, the flap got ripped right where a staple went. BAH! Those flaps were pretty cheaply made, looked like they were made from recycled tires, so I ordered a new set and when they came, I got them installed with no problems. Then I gave both inners a couple of coats of undercoating for protection. So now they are ready to install.
The last couple of days I worked on getting the Nova emblems, simulated louvers, side marker lights, engine placards and headlight trim installed on the front fenders. There were no predrilled holes for the "350" emblems, so I had to drill those. I had drilled the holes for the Nova scripts and louvers before the fenders were painted, so those just dropped right in. Since the car came with '68-'69 fenders that use different fenders and side markers, I had no reference as to the location of the holes. The assembly manual shows a dimension and stud spacing, but the location above the side markers shows a reference dimension, but doesn't show where that is located. After looking at a lot of pictures of '70-'72 Novas with engine emblems. it looked like they were about 1/4"-3/8" above the light. The dimension they showed in the manual was 1.20", and using the top of the marker light opening as the datum, that gave about the corrects spacing. So, after carefully measuring and marking the two holes, I took a big breath and drilled a pair of 7/32" holes for each emblem. When dropped in place, it looked like all the others I saw, so that's good.
The eyebrow moldings, as they are called, are known to be ill fitting, even from the factory, so I was ready for a frustrating job getting them to fit acceptably. The left side actually fit pretty well, needing just a minor amount of tweaking, but the right side took about an hour of careful work to get a decent fit.
I applied two layers of blue masking tape on the front edge of the doors and a couple more to the rear edge of the fenders to keep from damaging the paint while installing and final fitting of them on the car. I have studs I install in a hole in the cowl and one in the radiator support to aid in hanging the fenders by myself, which works pretty well. I hung the right side fender, and it looks pretty good, but I'm going to work on getting it adjusted for a proper door gap. It was done before it was painted, but I failed to keep the stacks of shims together and labeled as to position, so I'll have to start from scratch again.

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and will have a happy New Year!

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