Restricting the top link… advice?

   / Restricting the top link… advice? #1  

S854

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
886
Location
Helena, MT
Tractor
‘67 MF 135 Deluxe / ‘22 Kioti CK2610 HST/Bad Boy ZT Elite 54”
I know…I’m beating a dead horse…

I see many MANY threads referring to placing a restriction in the line… what I can’t find is the “5 buck” orifice every thread refers to…

Quite a few suppliers sell a simple, inline orifice (which would be my preference) but I’ve seen them as high a $75 for a 1/2” NPT orifice… outrageous!

I’ve check Surplus Center (recommended in many threads)… all they currently carry are the adjustable style… I don’t need that ability…

So… I’ve found a “restricted swivel”, available through ACE, but I’m wondering if it does essentially the same thing as a “one piece orifice”… I don’t need the swivel as my restriction will be screwed directly into the male part of my quick connect…
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #2  
Its fairly easy to convert an existing fitting to restricted if you or a friend have a metal lathe. Its a matter of making a press fit plug drilled to about 1/32" diameter or slightly larger depending on cylinder bore size. Probably could be just a slip fit if it is captured when the fitting is assembled.
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Unfortunately I don’t have access to a metal lathe… one would be handy for so many applications…

Yes on the Apache… albeit with a 1/2” thread…

Depending on the supplier there’s either a 1/32” or 1/16” restriction… which one did you get?
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #5  
1/2" hose and fittings are larger than you need for a hydraulic top link. 1/4" would be fine.

If yours has reducers after the quick connects to get the standard 1/2" ag connector down to a more reasonable size hose, I'd put the restrictor in the smaller diameter part after the reducers.
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #6  
I use the 1/16 I also have some that are jic to jic I found them on eBay a while ago. All my hoses are 1/4: my tractor max flow is 7.5 gpm so 1/4 is fine for everything and cheaper.
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I had the dealer install the top n tilt prior to delivery… they used 3/8 hoses with a 1/2” male end…
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #8  
I had the dealer install the top n tilt prior to delivery… they used 3/8 hoses with a 1/2” male end…
Taixin Hydraulic High Pressure Ball Valve 1/2'' NPT 5800PSI Hydraulic Valve Shut-Off KHB Hydraulic Ball Valve https://a.co/d/itaXUNw
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #10  
3/8 is fine. If it was me I'd put the restrictor in the 3/8 hose just to reduce the weight and bulk of the stack of adaptors and fittings.

A ball valve is the wrong fitting for this as it does not allow for fine control of the flow. Either a fixed orifice restrictor or a flow control valve like 3/8 NPT 8 GPM Prince WFC-600 In-Line Flow Control | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

That one is one way which may or may not be right, depending on what's needed. I have one on my loader to reduce bucket flop and three on my backhoe to make up for valves with poor control.

This one is two way: 3/8 NPT 8 GPM Needle Valve Wolverine by Prince Mfg WNV-600 | Wolverine by Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I ordered two of those... one to slow down the top link and (hopefully) get rid of the "chatter" when extending the ram... the other is for the side link... just to slow it down...

Now the wait begins... c'mon UPS!!!
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Got the top link off the tractor and the quick connectors removed… I say “connectors” because when I removed the ram side connector ( where I’ll place the restrictor) I found the dealer used Teflon tape to seal the threads… got all the tape off the threads and everything cleaned up with alcohol… I have some Rectorseal Tplus2 in my stash, so that’s what I’ll use for assembly…

once I get the hose/restrictor/connector assembled do I need to bleed any air out of the system or are all modern cylinders self purging? (My double pilot check valve needs to be installed with the valve body under the cylinder due to clearance issues… does this make any difference?)
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #14  
I never purged my grapple when I put the restrictor in. I never experienced any side effects either.
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I ordered two restrictor… one for the top and one for the side…

I put the top on the ram end hose and gave it a go… nice, smooth, slow extension… AND NO MORE CHATTERING 👍… unfortunately the retract was still “full” speed… no restriction…

I placed the other restrictor on the closed end hose and was rewarded with slow retract movement… I’m guessing these are one-way restrictors…

I’ll order two more restrictors for my side link… life goes on…

thanks to all who helped get me on the right road…
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #17  
If hyd hose has a male coupler just remove male coupler try inserting a dime with a hole drilled in the center between male tip & hose end. I know JD offers similar type restrictors(item 34) but those are much more expensive than a 10 cents
 

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   / Restricting the top link… advice?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I haven’t taken the tilt hoses apart yet … although, I need to — to remove the teflon tape used by the dealership…

reading up on the alloy used in the minting of modern dimes (cupronickel), the use of a “10 cent” restrictor might just work… if I can manage to poke a 1/32” hole in one (I don’t own a drill press…SACRILEGE!!!)

Thanks for the suggestio…
 
   / Restricting the top link… advice? #19  
Even if you DID have a drill press, it'd be pretty unlikely it would grab a bit that small - I ran into that several years ago when trying to use my press to drill some #60 holes in circuit boards - ended up buying a smaller chuck replacement (1/4" max), adding a fine thread grade 8 bolt to the new chuck, slicing off that bolt's head - then mounting the SMALL chuck in the larger one.

A 1/32" bit is .0313", that's .0003" larger than a #68 drill - (numbered drills get smaller with higher numbers)

You CAN buy 1/4" hex chucks, some will close to ZERO - I have this one


it goes down to at least #76, which is quite a bit smaller than the 1/32" you're after.

If you have a way to hold a dime steady (like a small vise) you could just center punch a small divot where you want the hole and your handheld drill (maybe WITH the above adapter, if your drill's chuck doesn't go to zero) should do well enough for your flow limiter... Steve
 

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