I've done these types of walls before.
So the question is, do I pay $7000+mortar for a guy to come in or do I move the rock, pile them out back and pay $3000 or so in materials and break my back over the summer.
Mind you, this would cut significantly into my boating and fishing time.
BTW, your wall looks great, you're my inspiration to break my back. That and $5000 in savings.
Do not be over limiting in assessing your alternatives, there may be other choices you would like.
I built a retaining wall a few feet from the porch slab (to give a flower bed in between) to maintain the grade change between a nice pecan tree and the porch. The block I used had two hollow cavities in them and a small cleat in the back that made each course "lean back" a little into the uphill side. The top course had hollow cavities too but the tops were solid so the cavities were not visible.
The regular blocks weighed 84 lbs each and the top ones a few pounds more. I hired a couple high school kids (got recommendations from the local chief of police as I have little connection with the nearest town.) I paid them each $10/hr and worked with them. I used the tractor with FEL to haul blocks from my util trailer to the current active location. The pallet loads of block exceeded my tractors lift capability so the forks came off and I used the bucket to tote blocks till the pallet was light enough to handle with the FEL/pallet forks.
Since I was working with them it was easy to keep the pace up. I mean really... they had to try to keep up with the old gray bearded guy! The wall went up quickly and as I had splurged on bagged gravel for speed and convenience, filling the cavities of each course went fast. The wall is about 4 years old and is doing fine.
I didn't pour a concrete footer but used the optional method suggested by the block supplier where you dig a slight trench, pack in some gravel and bury the first course below grade (actually about flush) to "anchor" it. At one end the wall turns on a radius and gets shorter. It was easy to get a good looking effect.
Some people who pour a footer set the first course while the footer is quite wet and stick rebar through the holes in the block into the footer and continue the rebar up all the courses. I didn't do that. Imagine lifting 84 lb blocks up over your head to thread them onto the rebar!
My wall was short enough (about 4 ft or so) that I didn't need to tie it back into the high side dirt. The wall naturally (due to the cleats) leans back into the high side.
Surrounding the pecan tree on two sides on the downhill side is a cast concrete retaining wall that is 12 inches thick and runs from about 12 ft high to 6 ft or so. I put a French drain at the base of that. I didn't need a French drain for the wall made of blocks as hydraulic pressure is easily relieved by all the moderately loose fitting blocks.
I suggest you consider hiring some help to save a lot of wear and tear on your frame. By working with them and not just supervising you can easily keep the pace up and get your money's worth out of the help. The job will go much faster leaving you more boating and fishing time. The helpers you keep throughout the job will gain some useful experience and make some $ through their own industry, not a gift from mom and dad. (A good thing for them.) I recommend hiring at least as many helpers as you think you can keep busy logistics wise and don't be afraid to excuse any of them if the helper fails to maintain the pace, just doesn't fit in, or whatever behavior frustrates you.
Whatever you decide, I wish you the best of luck on your project. I get a little twinge in my back just thinking about handling those 84 lb blocks I used.
Pat