Retaining wall
- Thread starter DiskDoctr
- Start date
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Fred,
Thanks for the compliment!
Sorry, can't do a pictorial- already have the wall up! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
But, I can put together what I did fairly clearly when I get back. I will be out of town a few days and have to finish some paperwork now.
I'll be back Thurs or Fri. Maybe I'll get some time on the road to work something up...
-JC
Thanks for the compliment!
Sorry, can't do a pictorial- already have the wall up! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
But, I can put together what I did fairly clearly when I get back. I will be out of town a few days and have to finish some paperwork now.
I'll be back Thurs or Fri. Maybe I'll get some time on the road to work something up...
-JC
tracdoc
Platinum Member
JC,
Very nice job, indeed. Did you use the Pavestone Anchor Diamond blocks for your project? As neophytes, we found them to be quite easy to work with when we built a retaining wall when we were living in AZ. Our wall was on average 4-6 feet high, fronting a waterway through the community, and provided the border for our tumbled paver stone patio behind the wall. We leveled and set the first course in sand, and the remaining courses simply locked in place.
We got all our materials from Pavestone in Phoenix, but they have nationwide production and distribution. We found prices direct were far better than H-D or Lowes. For the patio part of the project, we had Pavestone tumble our pavers (for a small charge) to give them that softer "Old World" look. Neither H-D nor Lowes could offer that service. For anyone interested, you can see their prodcut lineup, etc. at:
PAVESTONE
When we were preparing, we found a couple of other manufacturers who offered similar products. We went with Pavestone since their production facility was local, and delivery charges were nominal. Readers may find one of these other companies closer to them:
BELGARD
ANCHORWALL
Again, congrats on a fine, well-done project.
Very nice job, indeed. Did you use the Pavestone Anchor Diamond blocks for your project? As neophytes, we found them to be quite easy to work with when we built a retaining wall when we were living in AZ. Our wall was on average 4-6 feet high, fronting a waterway through the community, and provided the border for our tumbled paver stone patio behind the wall. We leveled and set the first course in sand, and the remaining courses simply locked in place.
We got all our materials from Pavestone in Phoenix, but they have nationwide production and distribution. We found prices direct were far better than H-D or Lowes. For the patio part of the project, we had Pavestone tumble our pavers (for a small charge) to give them that softer "Old World" look. Neither H-D nor Lowes could offer that service. For anyone interested, you can see their prodcut lineup, etc. at:
PAVESTONE
When we were preparing, we found a couple of other manufacturers who offered similar products. We went with Pavestone since their production facility was local, and delivery charges were nominal. Readers may find one of these other companies closer to them:
BELGARD
ANCHORWALL
Again, congrats on a fine, well-done project.
Tracdoc,
I used Garden Wall interlocking block (with the lip on the back of each block)
They are really only supposed to be used for about 36" or so, since they are designed to lean backwards and after that many courses (4" per block), the weight would be unbalanced.
We completely burried the bottom course to prevent kickout and put the gravel behind the wall to support it forward and to prevent the clay and dirt from pushing the wall.
I got the stone from a local supplier, at just under $2/ea. It wasn't cheap, but it's permanent.
I'll post a new picture as soon as the weather clears up. We added a top ring to encircle the tree and step the ground for a better to level.
Sorry I didn't notice your post earlier, else I would've responsed sooner.
Thanks to all for the compliments.
-JC
I used Garden Wall interlocking block (with the lip on the back of each block)
They are really only supposed to be used for about 36" or so, since they are designed to lean backwards and after that many courses (4" per block), the weight would be unbalanced.
We completely burried the bottom course to prevent kickout and put the gravel behind the wall to support it forward and to prevent the clay and dirt from pushing the wall.
I got the stone from a local supplier, at just under $2/ea. It wasn't cheap, but it's permanent.
I'll post a new picture as soon as the weather clears up. We added a top ring to encircle the tree and step the ground for a better to level.
Sorry I didn't notice your post earlier, else I would've responsed sooner.
Thanks to all for the compliments.
-JC
Here is a new picture with the top ring around the tree.
You can see that we have started to level the ground above the ring.
We will shortly fill in the tree area with gravel, then some sort of decorative stone. We're planning to put some potted bushes or other plants/flowers into this area.
Figure avoiding dirt will prevent weeds, and the poison ivy that continuously grows on that tree /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-JC
You can see that we have started to level the ground above the ring.
We will shortly fill in the tree area with gravel, then some sort of decorative stone. We're planning to put some potted bushes or other plants/flowers into this area.
Figure avoiding dirt will prevent weeds, and the poison ivy that continuously grows on that tree /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-JC
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herdfan
Gold Member
More sunbathers in the background? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
