two_bit_score
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Interesting project. Good pics. Look forward to following.
Retaining walls and patio
- Thread starter Muhammad
- Start date
- Views: 59365
OP
First batch of blocks arrived for the retaining wall. Started getting the lowest point first course down. Using a 10 inch 3/4 clear base. 3 down, 492 to go.
I see the slight curve. Are you setting the wall vertical or using the step back option? When I rebuilt my wall I changed it from vertical to stepped. Cutting the blocks for the curve was a pain.
Doug in SW IA
Doug in SW IA
OP
Going vertical so the blocks will be flush. They are secured with pins instead of lips.
These blocks are narrower in the back than the front so you can curve them without cutting. Makes it really easy.
OP
Realized I needed seven blocks on the first course so had to dig out a little bit. But today I bought a cheap 20lb bauer demo hammer from HF... seems to work just as good as the makita I usually rent. So far this is about 3 hours of work to get these blocks in.
Tomorrow I'll pick up some drain pipe since it needs to go in behind the second course.
Tomorrow I'll pick up some drain pipe since it needs to go in behind the second course.
i7win7
Elite Member
Stanley "Dirt Monkey" Genadek - YouTube
May want to look over some of this guy's videos - pro landscaper
May want to look over some of this guy's videos - pro landscaper
OP
Yup, I've already watched them! Good tips for sure. The only thing I'm unable to do to make this the best possible wall is build up the backfill with grid to spec. The hillside is just too steep to take out another 3 feet and then build it back up. That would dramatically increase the strength but what I will be doing is laying grid as far back as I can, just not the full four feet that the engineers would want.
Streetcar
Veteran Member
What is maximum height of your wall.depending on existing soil rotational grid is needed for walls over 4 ft in height
OP
We're going to 4 feet including the cap.
I am all for the grid, I'm just making the risk:reward calculation based on the amount of work it would be to excavate out the hillside to be able to insert the grid, compared to the height and building permit requirements (not needed up to 4 ft total height).
That works for a while, but depending on the curve and height eventually you have to start cutting blocks. The radius of the curve gets tighter and at some point the pins don't line up anymore.
Doug in SW IA
the old grind
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Muhammad, I admire your work, just love the pics & how easy it is to follow progress, not to mention a relevant thread title that caught my attention.
Here in MI we have frost to deal with. Plenty of volume in rock back-fill lets water collect at the bottom vs the same amt right behind the wall. In a warm climate, seepage might stain the blocks, leave calcium/mineral streaks, etc.
IMO, the block mfr's 4' spec is spot on. The more one can fit behind the wall the better, since this time uphill is also downhill and rains can be heavy anywhere, anytime.
btw, I see no issue with block fit in upper rows if installing them vertical. I imagine there will be some cutting/trimming for the cap fit.
Here in MI we have frost to deal with. Plenty of volume in rock back-fill lets water collect at the bottom vs the same amt right behind the wall. In a warm climate, seepage might stain the blocks, leave calcium/mineral streaks, etc.
IMO, the block mfr's 4' spec is spot on. The more one can fit behind the wall the better, since this time uphill is also downhill and rains can be heavy anywhere, anytime.
btw, I see no issue with block fit in upper rows if installing them vertical. I imagine there will be some cutting/trimming for the cap fit.
OP
Put in 3 inch perforated pvc with sleeve behind the second course. Not a ton of room back there on the low courses but it opens up as the elevation rises.
This drain will run the length of the wall and then where it has the T and runs under the second course of blocks, it will run down to dump into the driveway. The entrie drain will get a nice slope.
Although we're in San Diego, the winner rain can be pretty heavy and this whole hillside has been eroding pretty quickly over the past couple of years as a result.
Got things to the point where to finish off the first course in this curve area we will need a concrete saw to cut the last blocks. There's an existing neighbor CMU wall, some roots, and a sidewalk to chip away to get a nice clean fit.
I'm only getting a couple hours a day in on this so after the major excavation was done, we're about 8 man hours to get it to this point.
Before I forget the Bauer demo hammer is working well. Seems to work just like the Bosch and makita ones I've rented for $70 a day many times. The Bauer was $239 plus $40 for the little shovel chisel attachment.
This drain will run the length of the wall and then where it has the T and runs under the second course of blocks, it will run down to dump into the driveway. The entrie drain will get a nice slope.
Although we're in San Diego, the winner rain can be pretty heavy and this whole hillside has been eroding pretty quickly over the past couple of years as a result.
Got things to the point where to finish off the first course in this curve area we will need a concrete saw to cut the last blocks. There's an existing neighbor CMU wall, some roots, and a sidewalk to chip away to get a nice clean fit.
I'm only getting a couple hours a day in on this so after the major excavation was done, we're about 8 man hours to get it to this point.
Before I forget the Bauer demo hammer is working well. Seems to work just like the Bosch and makita ones I've rented for $70 a day many times. The Bauer was $239 plus $40 for the little shovel chisel attachment.
Xfaxman
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I currently have a Makita SDS Max, and I agree that the shovel attachment works great!!!! It's a must have tool for working in hard dirt. Before the Makita, I had Bosch and Hitachi. Both worked OK, but neither are in the same league as the Makita.
OP
What difference do you notice with the makita versus the others?
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Fit, feel and response. The Hitachi was a workhorse, but it always felt sloppy. The Bosch started out great, but didn't last very long. When I first became a contractor, I started out with mostly DeWalt tools, but they all died fairly quickly, so I replaced them with a variety of brands. Makita has been the one brand that holds up the best and gets the job done.
OP
I've heard many mixed reviews of Dewalt. I already killed the DeWalt hammer drill I have had for four years but kind of feel like I abused it by mixing mortar with it. By comparison I had a makita 12v drill for about 20 years with no issues, though never mixed mortar with it.
I'm not heavily invested in DeWalt, only have a couple of batteries so I could make the switch to another brand.
MickeyDBC
Gold Member
That slope on the side of the house is pretty steep. You might want to get a PE (professional engineer) to review what you are doing there. An old neighbor of ours built a retaining wall in his backyard to terrace it out. The wall ended up blocking the natural water migration and the upper terrace basically turned into very heavy goo during a couple of days of heavy rain and it severely damaged the wall and almost got his house.
OP
Good points... Yeah it's steep but the scope of this DIY wall is more along the lines of a "better than it was" situation than a permanent solution. Also we're under the height limit for non-permitted walls. If it falls down I'll definitely post about it.
Streetcar
Veteran Member
Are you using filter fabric over your gravel to keep it clean and free draining. All precast retaining walls sold in Ohio are good for 4 ft of height with no additional engineering
