"Reverse clevis hitch"? Anyone ever tried?

[showcattle]

My scraper as well as disc and do-all have this type of tongue:

View attachment 498628 View attachment 498629

It's odd to me that your ground engaging implements have a fixed tongue.

I'd box in the end of your hitch, then fabricate a floating hitch like shown in these pics of the discs.

 

[CobyRupert]

View attachment 498717

Well... the 1" twisted Clevis didn't work out. About 3 hours of use, and it beat the **** out of the connector, pin, and actually bent the clevis. It is now very hard to get the pin into the clevis as the holes are no longer directly in alignment.

I have to do something because I know that I'll break the towbar or implement if I don't. But short of hauling them to a welder or having one come out, I have no options. I have to get both a towbar adapter, like a hammer strap, and have the implements altered as well.

Or just have the implements altered similar to yours, Todd.

Sorry that didn't work out. Something definitely looks wrong with that clevis. Almost like it doesn't have enough twist in it (anymore).

Doing it right is the right way to do it (!!) ......but... could you tow the implements from a cross drawbar between the 3 point hitch arms? A cross draw bar will rotate.

 

[Dadnatron]

Doing it right is the right way to do it (!!) ......but... could you tow the implements from a cross drawbar between the 3 point hitch arms? A cross draw bar will rotate.

No, it would jerk the arms right off of my tractor.

I think I'm going to modify a pintle and see what I can do. I have an idea to make it bolt to the drawbar and have another piece with the lunette pin to the scraper/blade. that way I can just make one connector and I can move it to whichever I am using. I'm a little worried that the 'drag' strain I put on it might just snap the pintle hook off. They aren't really designed to take that sort of heavy 'yank', but I don't have any other options. It is the 'least expensive' with possibility to work. If it doesn't... I am destined to go big time and shell out some money for implement modification.

I am really thinking about just spending the money and buying a welder and giving it a shot myself. I have everything I would need, and if my weld breaks... I'll just have to weld it better the next time.

But I will have to have someone drill some big holes for attachment both at the implement as well as the drawbar attachment.

I think I'll use my 'snapped' drawbar pieces to make the bulk of the connection. At least I know its.... good......... steel.............. hmmmmmmmm....

 

[CobyRupert]

No, it would jerk the arms right off of my tractor.

.

No, it would jerk the arms right off of my tractor.

I guess I don't understand. I thought the problem was the downward "lever"-effect that the implement tongue applied to the end of the fixed drawbar that made it snap because the connection can't rotate vertically? And not because of the pulling forces?

Why would connecting implements to the 3 PTH jerk the arms off the tractor? From the pulling forces? Most tractors are going to come to a dead stop or stall when they can't pull something. (I'm thinking of moldboard plows that connect to 3pth's)
Do you mean the implement tongue jerks side-to side and would snap the stabilizers (chain or other linkage) that try to prevent this side to side movement of the 3 pth?

No offense, I probably don't fully understand the problem, and at the end of the day it's your risk, and there's no substitute for doing it right. But just wondering.

 

[Dadnatron]

I'm pulling a scraper that has snapped a towbar before. That was a combination of tension and downward bend.

The scraper, intermittently, digs deep, thereby completely stopping the tractor. I would not want to put that force on my liftarms. If that scraper can bend a 1" clevis hitch, I know it would do some real damage to those arms. I see your point, but all I can say is that I have no faith that it would even last an hour. My lift arms just aren't that beefy.

I think it is a combination of hard tow, twist, bend, etc. I think my best shot is a pintle/lunette. I spoke with a 'scraper refurbisher' in AR, where I purchased it, and that was what he recommended.

 

[Dadnatron]

After even MORE consideration, I'm going to see if I can find/fabricate a hammerstrap. JD has one for my bar... $284... my entire bar was only $310.... heh... I just said 'only'.

Worthington Ag has them for sale around $75, but I have to go home and measure the holes, because they can't figure out whether it fits my bar. If not, I might just visit a welding shop and have them fabricate one. I would think it would STILL be cheaper than $284.

Concerning the lunette... overszd... do you have them welded SOLID or do they rotate? I'd like to just get ONE that I can move back and forth between the scrapers and I'd rather not weld it on if possible. I see Curt has a Lunette bar. Hitches Direct | Trailer, Truck & Towing Hitches | Eau Claire, WI | Lunette Eyes Parts I thought I might weld a piece of my broken drawbar to it, fill the holes, cut if off, and drill a new SINGLE hole for the pin. This would 'thicken' the bar to fill the space in the implement connection and hopefully keep it from rocking on the pin so badly. I have to measure the openings of both blades to see how big I can make it and still fit into both. I'll likely need to weld some plate 'sides' to it to keep it from rotating in the implement.

 

[ovrszd]

I don't have a pic of my scraper hitch. I can get one tomorrow. It is rigid, doesn't rotate. But honestly, I've not saw a need for it to rotate. The ring allows side to side rotation. Also, understand, my scraper has dolly wheels so I don't have any "weight" on the hitch. Not sure that would matter in regards to rotation though.

I drove thru my large farmer friend's machinery lot today. Every ground tillage tool he has uses a rigid lunette and a hammer strap on the tractors.

 

[Dadnatron]

How is the best way to 'size' a lunette ring in relation to the size of the hammer strap pin?

Basically, how much 'play' is optimal? I've seen rings from 2" inside diameter to 3". This is a pretty big variance.

 

[ovrszd]

I'll try to remember to measure mine. It is actually too big for my uses, and the uses of the previous owner. He welded some plate in the rearward half of the circle to make it smaller. This took a lot of slop out of it. I'll get some pics today.

 

[ovrszd]

Forgive my crappy pics. But hey, I remembered to get them.

I built my Hammer Strap. Uses an 1 1/4" pin.

The pics of the lunette are on my scraper. As I mentioned earlier, previous owner closed up the hole to prevent slop. Originally it was a 3" diameter loop.