Robin Suburu engine mount bolts

[Rick_Taylor]

Well I'm stumped. I need to replace my voltage regulator. Terry said no problem, just lift the engine a bit so it's exposed. I got the PT staged in the right place right below my chain hoist, removed the heat shield, hooked up the chains, and tried to remove the engine bolts. I don't know what PT used to tighten those buggers but whatever it was is bigger than me. My only other though was to lift the whole rear section with a jack so I can get an impact in there but it seems like it would be pretty tippy. I am also concerned about my ability to keep the nut from turning with just a wrench and my hand strength to hold it. I can't get anything else down in there, especially to the rear bolts. Anyone have any terrific ideas of getting those bolts loose?

 

[MossRoad]

Well I'm stumped. I need to replace my voltage regulator. Terry said no problem, just lift the engine a bit so it's exposed. I got the PT staged in the right place right below my chain hoist, removed the heat shield, hooked up the chains, and tried to remove the engine bolts. I don't know what PT used to tighten those buggers but whatever it was is bigger than me. My only other though was to lift the whole rear section with a jack so I can get an impact in there but it seems like it would be pretty tippy. I am also concerned about my ability to keep the nut from turning with just a wrench and my hand strength to hold it. I can't get anything else down in there, especially to the rear bolts. Anyone have any terrific ideas of getting those bolts loose?

If you can get a wrench on the nuts, and then turn the bolt, will the nut turn with the wrench on it until it bumps up against something else to keep it from spinning?

 

[Rick_Taylor]

I can get a wrench on the nuts but I can't turn either the nuts nor the bolts when I have them both captured, at least with just wrenches. I'm sure I can turn the bolts with an impact, but I doubt I could hold the nuts with my 9/16 wrench without anything to mechanically brace it. And I sure won't be able to brace the rear nuts. I can barely get my hand and a wrench in there. I thought that with so many folks posting about all the work done on these engines from hell that someone had a good idea. Maybe their motors weren't nailed down quite so tight.

 

[Fxfymn413]

If you can get a wrench on the nut use a piece of pipe on the wrench to increase the leverage. If you can safely apply heat that will loosen the nut as well. My last resort with a stubborn nut/bolt combo is to tighten them until the bolt breaks.

If you have one use a six point closed end wrench to keep it from stripping the nut.

 

[Rick_Taylor]

A piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench, or a longer wrench if I can find one was my thought. That would allow the pipe/wrench to jam up against the tub and hold the nut while the impact turned the bolt from underneath. It may be one of those 'sounds good when you say it fast' things but I have to try it.

 

[MossRoad]

A piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench, or a longer wrench if I can find one was my thought. That would allow the pipe/wrench to jam up against the tub and hold the nut while the impact turned the bolt from underneath. It may be one of those 'sounds good when you say it fast' things but I have to try it.

Yes, that will work if you can get the pipe onto the wrench in the tub.

 

[seville009]

If there's not much room to move the wrench handle, if enough of the handle sticks out, try whacking it with a hammer. Usually that can break the bolt loose. That's the same concept as an impact wrench, but just a lot slower.

 

[ponytug]

A piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench, or a longer wrench if I can find one was my thought. That would allow the pipe/wrench to jam up against the tub and hold the nut while the impact turned the bolt from underneath. It may be one of those 'sounds good when you say it fast' things but I have to try it.

Much as "it sounds good when you say it fast...", I have to admit that strategy is my go to. If it has problems, I add PowerBlaster for rusty bolts and heat. I know that there isn't a ton of room in the tub, but if you can get an impact wrench directly on the nut, it will be more effective than getting it in the bolt, as the shaft of the bolt absorbs some of the impact vibration.

I will admit that certain nuts have caused upgrades to my tool chest to include a 3/4" impact wrench and some long cheater bars. Don't forget the be all to end all;

Much as I hate to do it, sometimes it is just more efficient to buy new bolts and move on with the project.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

The one issue I have with using heat in the PT tubs is that gosh only knows what amount of oil and debris has built up under the engine mount that you can't see. I'd be very much against using a torch under there.

 

[Rick_Taylor]

I used a piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench which jammed up against the tub. That worked, but getting the little buggers re-threaded onto the rear bolts is almost impossible. Not sure how I'm going to do that. Taking them off with a wrench was not bad at all once they were loose, but putting them on requires my fingers to hold the nut while I turn the bolts. I just don't bend that way. The left rear under the oil filter just might get left off. I have to wonder how the factory did it.

 

[MossRoad]

I used a piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench which jammed up against the tub. That worked, but getting the little buggers re-threaded onto the rear bolts is almost impossible. Not sure how I'm going to do that. Taking them off with a wrench was not bad at all once they were loose, but putting them on requires my fingers to hold the nut while I turn the bolts. I just don't bend that way. The left rear under the oil filter just might get left off. I have to wonder how the factory did it.

If you have a small, powerful magnet, place it on the wrench near the end and it should hold the nut in place in the wrench enough to at least get it started.

 

[MossRoad]

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Amazing deals on this 10Pk Rare Earth Magnets at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

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[Rick_Taylor]

Sounds like it might just work. Thanks.

 

[Rick_Taylor]

I finally decided those nuts were NOT going on without something changing. So, I got out my trusty grinder and cut the rung out from between the two lower vents in the rear of the tub. Now I can reach in and simply start the nuts onto the bolts. I really don't think there will be a real loss of structural strength of the tub. Personally, I believe PT could do everyone a favor by cutting a 6" square out of both sides of the tub just behind the rear wheel. A hatch cover with bolts every two inches would keep the structural strength and the hole would allow unfettered access to the oil filter, fuel pump, voltage regulator, and the motor mount nuts. It would need to be cut without the engine in place. Now, everyone tell me I'm full of it.

 

[ponytug]

@Rick_Taylor No, I don't think you are full of it, but how often do you need it? I remember a story about submarine servicing where the valve was replaced by cutting into the hull, changing the valve, and welding the hull back up. It changed my view of metal. If it is in the way, it can always be cut and rewelded.

@MossRoad, I was thinking of cutting the bolts underneath the belly pan. I always worry about fire.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Rick_Taylor]

How often would I need it? Let me see. I have had to replace the fuel pump, the voltage regulator which necessitated lifting the motor, and of course numerous oil changes which require getting to the supremely convenient oil filter. So, I really think the hatches might be slightly handy.

 

[ponytug]

How often would I need it? Let me see. I have had to replace the fuel pump, the voltage regulator which necessitated lifting the motor, and of course numerous oil changes which require getting to the supremely convenient oil filter. So, I really think the hatches might be slightly handy.

Hatch it is, then!

All the best,

Peter

 

[Fxfymn413]

So, I really think the hatches might be slightly handy.

Every DuraMax pick up I owned has had a hatch put in the right front fender liner so the fuel filter can easily be replaced.

 

[MossRoad]

Every DuraMax pick up I owned has had a hatch put in the right front fender liner so the fuel filter can easily be replaced.

This is a wee bit thicker than body panels.

 

[BigDaddyEureka]