Robin Suburu engine mount bolts

   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #1  

Rick_Taylor

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2003
Messages
108
Location
Decatur, TX
Tractor
Power Trac PT-425, Kubota L4330HSTC Kubota RTV
Well I'm stumped. I need to replace my voltage regulator. Terry said no problem, just lift the engine a bit so it's exposed. I got the PT staged in the right place right below my chain hoist, removed the heat shield, hooked up the chains, and tried to remove the engine bolts. I don't know what PT used to tighten those buggers but whatever it was is bigger than me. My only other though was to lift the whole rear section with a jack so I can get an impact in there but it seems like it would be pretty tippy. I am also concerned about my ability to keep the nut from turning with just a wrench and my hand strength to hold it. I can't get anything else down in there, especially to the rear bolts. Anyone have any terrific ideas of getting those bolts loose?
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #2  
Well I'm stumped. I need to replace my voltage regulator. Terry said no problem, just lift the engine a bit so it's exposed. I got the PT staged in the right place right below my chain hoist, removed the heat shield, hooked up the chains, and tried to remove the engine bolts. I don't know what PT used to tighten those buggers but whatever it was is bigger than me. My only other though was to lift the whole rear section with a jack so I can get an impact in there but it seems like it would be pretty tippy. I am also concerned about my ability to keep the nut from turning with just a wrench and my hand strength to hold it. I can't get anything else down in there, especially to the rear bolts. Anyone have any terrific ideas of getting those bolts loose?
If you can get a wrench on the nuts, and then turn the bolt, will the nut turn with the wrench on it until it bumps up against something else to keep it from spinning?
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I can get a wrench on the nuts but I can't turn either the nuts nor the bolts when I have them both captured, at least with just wrenches. I'm sure I can turn the bolts with an impact, but I doubt I could hold the nuts with my 9/16 wrench without anything to mechanically brace it. And I sure won't be able to brace the rear nuts. I can barely get my hand and a wrench in there. I thought that with so many folks posting about all the work done on these engines from hell that someone had a good idea. Maybe their motors weren't nailed down quite so tight.
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #4  
If you can get a wrench on the nut use a piece of pipe on the wrench to increase the leverage. If you can safely apply heat that will loosen the nut as well. My last resort with a stubborn nut/bolt combo is to tighten them until the bolt breaks.

If you have one use a six point closed end wrench to keep it from stripping the nut.
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts
  • Thread Starter
#5  
A piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench, or a longer wrench if I can find one was my thought. That would allow the pipe/wrench to jam up against the tub and hold the nut while the impact turned the bolt from underneath. It may be one of those 'sounds good when you say it fast' things but I have to try it.
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #6  
A piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench, or a longer wrench if I can find one was my thought. That would allow the pipe/wrench to jam up against the tub and hold the nut while the impact turned the bolt from underneath. It may be one of those 'sounds good when you say it fast' things but I have to try it.
Yes, that will work if you can get the pipe onto the wrench in the tub.
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #7  
If there's not much room to move the wrench handle, if enough of the handle sticks out, try whacking it with a hammer. Usually that can break the bolt loose. That's the same concept as an impact wrench, but just a lot slower.
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #8  
A piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench, or a longer wrench if I can find one was my thought. That would allow the pipe/wrench to jam up against the tub and hold the nut while the impact turned the bolt from underneath. It may be one of those 'sounds good when you say it fast' things but I have to try it.
Much as "it sounds good when you say it fast...", I have to admit that strategy is my go to. If it has problems, I add PowerBlaster for rusty bolts and heat. I know that there isn't a ton of room in the tub, but if you can get an impact wrench directly on the nut, it will be more effective than getting it in the bolt, as the shaft of the bolt absorbs some of the impact vibration.

I will admit that certain nuts have caused upgrades to my tool chest to include a 3/4" impact wrench and some long cheater bars. Don't forget the be all to end all;
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Much as I hate to do it, sometimes it is just more efficient to buy new bolts and move on with the project.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts #9  
The one issue I have with using heat in the PT tubs is that gosh only knows what amount of oil and debris has built up under the engine mount that you can't see. I'd be very much against using a torch under there.
 
   / Robin Suburu engine mount bolts
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I used a piece of pipe to lengthen the wrench which jammed up against the tub. That worked, but getting the little buggers re-threaded onto the rear bolts is almost impossible. Not sure how I'm going to do that. Taking them off with a wrench was not bad at all once they were loose, but putting them on requires my fingers to hold the nut while I turn the bolts. I just don't bend that way. The left rear under the oil filter just might get left off. I have to wonder how the factory did it.
 
 
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