Roof Pitch; 4/12 or 3/12?

[LS Tractor Owner]

3/12 will be just fine! My porch is spanning 14', has a 2/12 pitch, rafters are 2x6 @ 24" OC, 2x4 purlins 32" OC, covered with 26g ribbed panel. It's been up for 15 years, not one leak / problems. It will occasionally "sweat" underneath depending on temp and humidity. Maybe happens a couple of times in the spring and fall. I walk on it a few times and it is very stable underfoot. I ussually will step where the screws/ purlins are however. IMHO, you'll be fine with your plan.

 

[sodamo]

We don’t have snow loads, but we do get 140+ inches rain per year. 3-12 should be fine.
As for handling, geez, you have a tractor, shouldn’t be a problem.
I built my whole house with help of my Kioti Ck30.

 

[fried1765]

3/12 Won't be the worst mistake you've ever made. I don't think I've seen where you posted your location but you said big snows are not common so I think you will be fine. I've found when it does snow as soon as the sun pops out it tends to go off of a metal rook anyway. To do it over again I would not go with a 6/12 on my shop, maybe a 4/12 because I like the look of it but I would't hesitate to go with a 3/12.

Since you said you are putting them on 24" centers I think you will be more than fine, your truss manufacturer will build them to spec for local snow, ice and wind loads. I'm assuming you will nail in 1x4's flat on top of that to screw to?

"I don't think I've seen where you posted your location"

Nope!
You sure haven't.
Location (or lack thereof) is an ongoing issue with him.
Poor guy is paranoid, and is afraid that someone might actually find him.

 

[4570Man]

"I don't think I've seen where you posted your location"

Nope!
You sure haven't.
Location (or lack thereof) is an ongoing issue with him.
Poor guy is paranoid, and is afraid that someone might actually find him.

I sure hope he doesn’t have to have any labors or delivery guys to help with this shed. That’s a way bigger threat than posting here what state or even city he lives in. I’m sure tech savvy person could figure it out anyway.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

I just put a 3/12 metal roof on my 20x40 hunting camp last year no problems whatsoever, put a 4/12 tin roof on my 32x60 barn and it is no problem either, both are not bad to walk , but as you get older the 3/12 is more comfortable to work on, as a side note I did screw all the tin on my hunting camp in the ridge like we used to do and I will never screw in the flat again, just personal preference, water can't stay on no ridge.

 

[BukitCase]

Diggin' it, you didn't mention whether this is to be a 24' continuous NON-truss simple RAFTER roof, or gable, built-in-place truss, or??!?

If you intend a simple, continuous rafter NON-trussed frame a #2 and better douglas fir 2x6 MAXES OUT at right at 12' span on 24" centers. This is with no snow load, 20/10 live/dead load, L/240 (next to the floppiest given on the AWC span calc app)

Sooo, you got magic lumber or did you leave out a couple details? ...Steve

 

[Diggin It]

3/12 it is. Cut one of the gable end sets this morning and placed it just to see how it would look. Worked out fine.

This is looking like it will be all built in place trusses. I was considering at least a few pre-built trusses, but I just don't think I'll be able to place them on my own. At least doing it this way, I'm only dealing with one 2x6x14 board (cut to about 160" after the angles) at a time. By means of some straps and ropes, I'll be able to position and then nail each one. Plan is to place the 2x6x26 ceiling joists and support them temporarily with either 2x4s or 4x4s to the floor while I work the rafters and truss web boards into place.

 

[BukitCase]

Glad to hear it's gonna be trussed, that's HUGE for any serious (more than about 8') span.

My shop used to be a 36x48 x 12' pole barn - the original roof was 2x12's on 12 foot centers, 2x6 purlins on edge and heavy galvanized tin. I didn't want poles in the center, so I converted each 2x12 into a truss using 2x8 horizontals and 2x6 web - I used pieces of 1/2" ply (smallest was 2'x2') on both sides of each joint. Generous amounts of Titebond glue, did each intersection one at a time using every clamp I owned to tie it all together, then played "john dillinger) with a nail gun and ring shanks, let cure for a day before clamps came off;

The last joint was tying the bottom chord 2x8's together. I left 1/2" gap between the two pieces of 2x8, then chains/comalong between outer poles and closed the gap, did the plywood sandwich thing, etc -

At that time I still had the tin roof; that winter we had our usual wind storms (measured @ 70-80 mph) - a couple of the tin pieces folded back, but those trusses never moved.

Since then I had the house re-roofed, and had the roofer add cross ties between framing and sheath the shop with 5/8 CDX ply and 30 yr. three tab, same as the house. It's kinda nice to hafta open the door to know if it's raining, instead of just reaching for the ear muffs

Before I had the slab poured I first scraped all the "animal leftovers" down to bare clay, then AFTER the original rafters were trussed I sliced off the nails between 2x12's and 6x6 treated poles, and dropped 2 of the 3 interior poles out, leaving the last pole to help support a mezzanine across one end of the shop.

This is all a long-winded way of saying that you should do fine the way you're going; I tend to "think 4-5 times, measure 3-4 times, run thru the plan 2-3 times, lay out everything I might need to reach without letting go of whatever I'll need to hold, measure again, and (hopefully) cut once - this has saved me pain more than once, since 99% of the time I'm working alone.

Here's a couple pics I found that shows my truss connections... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Oh, that board below the two hose reels (one's reg. to 100 psi for nailers, other's full 175 psi for other stuff) is the homebuilt stairway to the mezzanine - all done with 3/4 ply (doubled for stringers) and pocket holes (except for the "trailer hitch" for the hoist, that is) ... Steve

 

[Deere Dude]

3/12 it is. Cut one of the gable end sets this morning and placed it just to see how it would look. Worked out fine.

This is looking like it will be all built in place trusses. I was considering at least a few pre-built trusses, but I just don't think I'll be able to place them on my own. At least doing it this way, I'm only dealing with one 2x6x14 board (cut to about 160" after the angles) at a time. By means of some straps and ropes, I'll be able to position and then nail each one. Plan is to place the 2x6x26 ceiling joists and support them temporarily with either 2x4s or 4x4s to the floor while I work the rafters and truss web boards into place.

The last house I built (30x80) I was considering putting up rafters and joists as I went along. Till I figured the cost. A prebuilt and delivered truss was quite a bit cheaper that to buy each piece and put it up. Labor isn't free either when you think about building trusses. Plus I really doubt a home made truss will be as strong as a arch. designed truss.

For a 3/12 pitch roof, I don't understand why you just don't put prebuilt 2x4 trusses up because your span should be able to be done by yourself and 2x4s should be light enough. Just takes planning ahead. If you can get them hanging on upside down on the walls I am sure a neighbor would help to stand them up in place.