Roofing discussion!!!

[dieselscout80]

Located in South Carolina, so no snow issues.

the roof vent would be straight up with no bends, the wall will have one 90 degree bend.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Located in South Carolina, so no snow issues.

the roof vent would be straight up with no bends, the wall will have one 90 degree bend.

attach is one example, I like the length from the exhaust to the roof on this one but see your hardware store look at your options as long as they have a back draft damper, a screen so nothings goes in and a decent pipe diameter. (at least 4'' diameter) Use hard line pipe and not flex pipe as flex increase resistance.

I don't know your house configuration here but if its a finish house the roof might be easier to install you simply have to cut the hole through the sealing to the addict then through the roof and shingles and you just slip that in. for the wall you might have to deal with fitting it under the siding which can be lots of work … but you also could bring it to the addict and pipe it to a gable which could be easier then the wall … but again the major components for resistance are diameter, distance and corners. Resistance = less airflow...

 

[Smokeydog]

That's called a studor valve, or air infiltrator valve. I have several in my very old house that at some point the original owner eliminated a main vent stack and moved it to the other side of the house. He never vented the kitchen sink, or the powder room sink. They'd gurgle when anything else was drained. I installed the Studor valves and that resolved that. Might want to check if acceptable to local codes.

Thanks for the info. Going to try one for a plumbing problem.

 

[Frankenkubota]

No, the P trap stops the gases from getting into the house, but the vent lines are clear all the way to the septic tank, or in town, all the way to the manhole.

A quick search of images found this picture. You can see how the trap is close to the sink, or whatever you are using. Then it flows into the main line. The main line is open from under the house, to above the house.

View attachment 707855

multi gracie to you and the others. I usually like to understand something first.

i still don't understand why i can vent a washer into the attic seeing that the washer drain is connected to the main drain line but....

i get it except the washer vent in the attic part.

thx all

 

[MossRoad]

If the washer drain is connected to the main drain, that's a path for gasses coming from your septic or municipal sewer system. So the P trap in the washer drain should block those gasses from coming back into the laundry room through that path. The vent for the washing drain is now the path for those gasses. You don't want sewer gas venting into your attic. You need a vent on the washer drain for proper drainage.

You have several choices. Three I can think of are:

- Tie your laundry vent into the main stack vent somewhere in your attic.
- Or, poke a hole in the roof and vent it separately out the roof.
- Or, put a Studor valve (air infiltrator valve) on a riser next to the stand pipe for the washer drain, making sure it's higher than the stand pipe. (this is the easiest way to do it, in my opinion, if it's legal in your location per code).

Never vent anything into your attic.

 

[3Ts]

That's called a studor valve, or air infiltrator valve. I have several in my very old house that at some point the original owner eliminated a main vent stack and moved it to the other side of the house. He never vented the kitchen sink, or the powder room sink. They'd gurgle when anything else was drained. I installed the Studor valves and that resolved that. Might want to check if acceptable to local codes.

In some places it's also referred to as an air admittance valve.

There are 2 other ways that are usually allowed by code to vent island sinks. 1) use a 4" pipe from the main drain all the way to the sink with the vertical piece capped just under the counter top with the sink drain coming into the side of the 4" pipe. 2) use 2 drain pipes connected in a U formation and the sink drains into only 1 of them. The idea behind these is that the pipes are large enough that a slug of water will not fill the pipe and air can pass over the slug so a vacuum will not form behind the water slug.

 

[MossRoad]

In some places it's also referred to as an air admittance valve.

There are 2 other ways that are usually allowed by code to vent island sinks. 1) use a 4" pipe from the main drain all the way to the sink with the vertical piece capped just under the counter top with the sink drain coming into the side of the 4" pipe. 2) use 2 drain pipes connected in a U formation and the sink drains into only 1 of them. The idea behind these is that the pipes are large enough that a slug of water will not fill the pipe and air can pass over the slug so a vacuum will not form behind the water slug.

Yes, I've seen those, but did not want to recommend it, and, would have trouble describing it without a picture.

 

[PILOON]

There was talk of skylights!

I always figured it was not 'IF' they leak, but rather 'When' will they.
Worst example was a client that insisted they wanted one over their bath tub.
I used shower type plasterboard to house the cavity as I figured it would sweat and drip due to condensation. (like hot steamy air hitting cold skylight)
That was a good call.
Later the clients complained about all the dead flies in their tub.
LOL they'd, flies that is, head for the light to escape, find no food and die and drop into the tub.
Oh, while it did not leak per say, the condensation did create nice cold water drips.

 

[Frankenkubota]

If the washer drain is connected to the main drain, that's a path for gasses coming from your septic or municipal sewer system. So the P trap in the washer drain should block those gasses from coming back into the laundry room through that path. The vent for the washing drain is now the path for those gasses. You don't want sewer gas venting into your attic. You need a vent on the washer drain for proper drainage.

You have several choices. Three I can think of are:

- Tie your laundry vent into the main stack vent somewhere in your attic.
- Or, poke a hole in the roof and vent it separately out the roof.
- Or, put a Studor valve (air infiltrator valve) on a riser next to the stand pipe for the washer drain, making sure it's higher than the stand pipe. (this is the easiest way to do it, in my opinion, if it's legal in your location per code).

Never vent anything into your attic.

i got it

what i was missing was ....

while the p traps stop the gasses from reentering the specific room they are in, once the gasses get in the main line, they can move around.

the washer vented to the attic was 10 years ago.

anyway, time to cut a hole in the roof.

Now, if someone can tell me how to keep the flange in the sink from leaking. I've tried everything except what the instructions suggest! Plumbers putty, various o rings and flat washers, even caulk. All 3 of my bathroom sinks leak down past the edge of the flange.

The pro plumber installed 1 sink about 1 month ago. I checked yesterday. His install does the same, sink won't hold water, leaks around the edge of the flange.

Today i buy what the DELTA instructions suggest, silicone.

Man do i

hate plumbing!

 

[3Ts]

When I put in a flange in a sink, I use 100% silicone caulk/sealant. It's the only thing I use 100% silicone for. Also, keep in mind that if you ever have to re-caulk something with 100% silicone, all the old stuff has to be removed mechanically (i.e. sandpaper) it does not stick to itself. I do not reuse anything that's had silicone caulk on it unless I have to.

When you put the flange in, once the sealant is in contact with both the flange and sink, twist it a little to be sure the caulk does not have any gaps in it. (just like you do with PVC pipe fittings)