Rookie 3pt question

[RoyJackson]

I got the rake hooked but the rake won't always follow the ground contour. It seems like I need to adjust something to allow the rake to lower more. Sorry I know it's a rookie question.

Any 3PH implement such as a rake won't follow the ground contour perfectly since the hook up (two lower links and the top link) is pretty rigid...unless there is a floating top link hook up on the implement. This is usually a "U" shaped bracket the pivots up and down on the implement.
If no floating link, the implement will follow the tractor''s movement...any up and down movement of the tractor (over uneven ground, for example) will also be the implement movement.
Also, most CUT 3PH setups don't have down pressure.
If you want the rake to follow the ground, disconnect the top link or replace it with a chain.
Doing this, the rake will follow the ground contours...might also dig in more then you want it to.
I don't have a rake, but have used them. If I ever buy a rake, it's going to have gauge wheels behind it.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Ok, I see what you mean now. I got it to work by adjusting the top link. Tomorrow I will change the stirrup pins to the low position and see how that works.

,,,,,,,,,You can also adjust the length of the lift links by lifting and turning that square adjuster with loop handles shown in your pic :

View attachment 462446

 

[dirtymartini]

,,,,,,,,,You can also adjust the length of the lift links by lifting and turning that square adjuster with loop handles shown in your pic :

I thought that only adjusted one side?

 

[RoyJackson]

I thought that only adjusted one side?

It does...that link is for leveling to implement, side to side

 

[jeff9366]

I thought that only adjusted one side?

When an implement is mounted both Lower Links are rigidly linked via the implement.

By adjusting the Lifting Rod screw on the right side, you can add or remove slack from the LEFT SIDE.

Once you remove the implement pin on the LEFT SIDE, the Lifting Road screw only adjusts the RIGHT Lower Link. Ingenious.


Therefore, the Three Point Hitch as only one manual adjusted Lifting Rod Screw on the right side, which adjusts the left AND right Lifting Rods when mounting or dropping implements.


When mounting an implement, connect the LEFT Lower Link first, moving the Lower Link a fraction by hand to insert the left pin, then adjust the Lifting Rod Screw as needed to insert the right pin.

(Tweaking the Top Link may help line up the right Lower Link and the implement.)

 

[SPYDERLK]

I thought that only adjusted one side?

Ive seen them with an adjuster on each side. My 7520 came that way. :confused3: ... Also, it appears your lift links may be pinned to the outer hole on the lower arms. This gives more lift force, but less range. Try the inner holes if they are there -- about 3" back toward the pivot on the tractor end.

 

[jeff9366]

When hydraulic assist is installed on the right Lifting Rod, the pre-existing manual adjuster is usually moved to the left Lifting Rod, so there then are adjusters on both sides.

 

[Leejohn]

quote;If you want the rake to follow the ground, disconnect the top link or replace it with a chain.


Roy you can't do that with a rake or blade.


Quote; When an implement is NOT mounted the Lower Links move individually


Mine don't just a little maybe.

 

[RoyJackson]

quote;If you want the rake to follow the ground, disconnect the top link or replace it with a chain.


Roy you can't do that with a rake or blade.


Quote; When an implement is NOT mounted the Lower Links move individually


Mine don't just a little maybe.

You can...I've done it. However, as I'd written (I think), both a blade and rake tend to dig in too deep.
For me, digging in worked OK since I was spreading spoils from drilling a well and as long as I moved fairly fast (and the spoils were loose), they spread pretty nicely.
However, when I raked my driveway (hard pack gravel), I made a mess with the rake. If I ever bought one...it would definitely have gauge wheels.

 

[LD1]

Ok? Lol! So you stand by your statement that "changing the top link adjustment... will do nothing to lower the rake."? I just hate to see the OP misslead.
:drink:

Edit: I must be grumpy. Please forget I said anything. Always had issues with catagorical statements. No point in derailing the OPs endeavor over my hang-up. Carry on and my apologies.

I want to comment on this real quick since I dont feel it got addressed.

YES, Making the Top link longer will lower the back of the rake, and shortening it will raise it. But you dont want to make a habit of adjusting the TL like that with a blade or rake or anything that angles.

It will work fine if all you ever do is leave it straight. But you need the "framework" of a blade/rake (the plane in which it rotates around) to be level. Or In other words, you want the pivot pin vertical.

If you go messing with the toplink, and you try to angle the rake or blade, it may no longer be level and may only cut in on one side.

Also worth noting that if you are doing some ditching or wanting to create a crown in the road, adjusting TL length when the blade is angled is IMO an easier way than adjusting a sidelink

 

[LD1]

I wouldnt advise running the TL unhooked, especially to a rookie.

Now way to raise at the end of the turn, attempting to raise actually increases the angle of attack, and then if you forget and try to back up, you probably just bent or broke something

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I want to comment on this real quick since I dont feel it got addressed.

YES, Making the Top link longer will lower the back of the rake, and shortening it will raise it. But you dont want to make a habit of adjusting the TL like that with a blade or rake or anything that angles.

It will work fine if all you ever do is leave it straight. But you need the "framework" of a blade/rake (the plane in which it rotates around) to be level. Or In other words, you want the pivot pin vertical.

If you go messing with the toplink, and you try to angle the rake or blade, it may no longer be level and may only cut in on one side.

Also worth noting that if you are doing some ditching or wanting to create a crown in the road, adjusting TL length when the blade is angled is IMO an easier way than adjusting a sidelink

I don't profess to be an expert like some but look at the picture in the OPs first post. The Top Link while a longer one is COMPLETELY RETRACTED. Also look as how low the lift arms already are (maybe 5" of the ground). As others have stated; seem plenty low for any rake I have used.

On the three tractors with three different rakes (again not an "expert") I have used you could do whatever you want to correctly set the link attachment pins.... But with the top link that short the tines will not reach the ground (the rake frame will hit first).

LD1 is absolutely correct about the correct way to use the rake an I'm sure the OP appreciates the complete explaination. (Rather that some brief TBN pocket wisdom regurgitated).

In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel.

BTW he stated lengthening the top link DID fix the problem (although possibly with a disadvantageous rake angle as LD1 cautioned against). Post 16.

I see a lot of "experts" on TBN give commanding advice that is just regurgitated TBN dogma and is either flat-ot wrong or grossly incomplete.

 

[TerryR]

Also worth noting that if you are doing some ditching or wanting to create a crown in the road, adjusting TL length when the blade is angled is IMO an easier way than adjusting a sidelink

And much more effective, in my experience.

 

[sd455dan]

I don't profess to be an expert like some but look at the picture in the OPs first post. The Top Link while a longer one is COMPLETELY RETRACTED. Also look as how low the lift arms already are (maybe 5" of the ground). As others have stated; seem plenty low for any rake I have used.

On the three tractors with three different rakes (again not an "expert") I have used you could do whatever you want to correctly set the link attachment pins.... But with the top link that short the tines will not reach the ground (the rake frame will hit first).

LD1 is absolutely correct about the correct way to use the rake an I'm sure the OP appreciates the complete explaination. (Rather that some brief TBN pocket wisdom regurgitated).

In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel.

BTW he stated lengthening the top link DID fix the problem (although possibly with a disadvantageous rake angle as LD1 cautioned against). Post 16.

I see a lot of "experts" on TBN give commanding advice that is just regurgitated TBN dogma and is either flat-ot wrong or grossly incomplete.

(In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel. )

Very good point.

After looking at the original photo, and posting it looks ok to me,

Now thinking if the op posts a couple pictures of the rake in the lifted position, and lowered position ( first contact and also fully down) and also being pulled in the as operated position, it would make the adjustments (if needed) fairly obvious.

It is possible that the lift height will now be reduced by having moved the lower link pins. (if moved)
Most tractor manufacturers position the lower link pins in the most used location, at least that would make sense.

Op could you post some pictures? Heck it may be just perfect where every thing is set right now:thumbsup:

 

[SPYDERLK]

H e l.l-lo everybody. ... The problem is his lower arms will not go low enuf.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

H e l.l-lo everybody. ... The problem is his lower arms will not go low enuf.

Funny, my geography must be fuzzy. I thought Pennsylvania was a fair ways from Virginia? Oh well. Glad you guys figured it out. Lol.

 

[dirtymartini]

(In my limited opinion once the OP lengthens the top link so that the rake is near "level" THEN he should adust the lift arm pins IF he is still not getting enough lower travel. )

Very good point.

After looking at the original photo, and posting it looks ok to me,

Now thinking if the op posts a couple pictures of the rake in the lifted position, and lowered position ( first contact and also fully down) and also being pulled in the as operated position, it would make the adjustments (if needed) fairly obvious.

It is possible that the lift height will now be reduced by having moved the lower link pins. (if moved)
Most tractor manufacturers position the lower link pins in the most used location, at least that would make sense.

Op could you post some pictures? Heck it may be just perfect where every thing is set right now:thumbsup:

I'll try to get some new pics tomorrow or Thursday. While the tines of the rake are scraping the ground the rake is not level, I just haven't had a chance to adjust anything else yet. I hate when my real job gets in the way!

 

[sd455dan]

H e l.l-lo everybody. ... The problem is his lower arms will not go low enuf.

Maybe so- and it may prove your assessment right when new pictures are posted...
but how many cat 1 rakes are sitting ( level ) with the lift arm pins located at less than 8 inches off the ground?? OPs 1st pic- certainly looks like just a few inches.

Just measured my cat 1 Rake -and to be close to level, the lift pins are about 18 inches off the ground.
Obviously rake design varies, and there will be differences also there does need to be enough lift arm travel to accommodate actual in use raking conditions.
but It just seems as if Luke is right about the top link being screwed tight (shortest possible length) and the rake was (and possibly still is) front low when the tines touch the ground.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I just measured my 84" Cat1 rake, sitting on concrete. With it sitting level, front to back, the lift pins are 18 1/2" above floor.







I suspect this is fairly typical among Cat 1 rakes although, I did see an Armstrong Ag rake yesterday, with much longer rake tines, that would probably be about 24" when level.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Sorry, just looked it up and the Armstrong Ag rake I saw was a Cat 1 / Cat 2 HD version.



I do need to make a stand, for mine, like the Armstrong Ag rakes. Mine is a concrete block.

Their stand looks pretty simple.