Rotary Cutter Discussion

[big bubba]

could be, probably on the heavy duty models designed for utility corridors, etc. still...can't imagine tackling something that size, regards

 

[Darth_DMack]

Outside edge to outside edge of my rear tractor tires is 72".

So, a 6' would be a good fit, but what about pulling a 5' instead? I don't have any large open areas, mostly would be mowing undergrowth in tight areas... I'm working this weekend finally cleaning up the larger downed trees / branches, getting ready for mowing. The small saplings are just that, small... 1-2" max.

I really appreciate all of the input so far. Great advice! Will be making a purchase soon!

 

[aesanders]

It will be fine to handle a 5’ footer. You will be a little further away from the fence line and if you are backing into clear area you may drive over uncut portions though.

I am using a 4 footer on my 6’ wide machine for brush clearing only.

I’d recommend getting a 6 footer if possible though.

 

[Darth_DMack]

It will be fine to handle a 5’ footer. You will be a little further away from the fence line and if you are backing into clear area you may drive over uncut portions though.

I am using a 4 footer on my 6’ wide machine for brush clearing only.

I’d recommend getting a 6 footer if possible though.

Great input Aesanders... I didn't think about the stand off using a 5' behind a 6' wide tractor.

So, yes... I will go 6'.

 

[EddieWalker]

I went from a 6 foot cutter with 37hp to a 12 batwing with 70hp.

I wouldn't want anything less then 6 foot. Mowing is fun for the first hour, then it becomes work, and then it doesn't take long for it to turn into torture. The longer you mow, the more it will hurt. Maybe not this year, or even next year, but it will happen. The bigger the mower, the more you can get done, the better!!!

If I had a 55hp tractor, I would seriously look at a ten foot batwing. Price is going to be a lot more, but in my opinion, that extra width is worth it.

Tractor Time with Tim has a few YouTube videos where he's cutting with a 10 foot batwing and a smaller tractor then what you have. Here's the first one that showed up on my search.

 

[Darth_DMack]

I went from a 6 foot cutter with 37hp to a 12 batwing with 70hp.

I wouldn't want anything less then 6 foot. Mowing is fun for the first hour, then it becomes work, and then it doesn't take long for it to turn into torture. The longer you mow, the more it will hurt. Maybe not this year, or even next year, but it will happen. The bigger the mower, the more you can get done, the better!!!

If I had a 55hp tractor, I would seriously look at a ten foot batwing. Price is going to be a lot more, but in my opinion, that extra width is worth it.

Tractor Time with Tim has a few YouTube videos where he's cutting with a 10 foot batwing and a smaller tractor then what you have. Here's the first one that showed up on my search.

If I had open areas to mow, I'd definitely look into a bat-wing. However, my areas are tight, and have lots of trees. I'm keeping the outer edges of my property natural, I have a spring and a stream that run on my one edge of the property.

Thank you for the input though, definitely gives me things to think about as I move forward.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric: nice vid & rig...though didn't see those 4" caliper growth
robust mower, have basically the same in 8', but still don't attack growth more than 2", plus larger stubs pose risk to tire puncture.
regards

You offer a good point I didn't discuss on my cutter.

Two things I do:

I have my cutter set up so that the sides of the rear end drags on the surface (the part closest to the tractor) so that the cutter cuts things as close to the ground as it can (about a 2" lawn-mower cut, so to speak) while also preventing material from getting flung back at my tractor.

I also don't sharpen my blades so the cutter basically shreds what is cuts making things less sharp and too small to stand up to an industrial tire running it over. Also the ground I'm using the cutter on is all sphagnum, so really soft "dirt."

In the first video that I linked to I mowed the top of a birch tree windfall that was around 4" but all this to say if you look at the back of my mower, the metal reinforcement guard thingy that holds the chain on is bent up from my using the cutter to lean over smaller trees and mow them.

Around 15 or 16 minutes in I start mowing bigger stuff (that is growing way, way too close together to really get it done right).

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Outside edge to outside edge of my rear tractor tires is 72".

So, a 6' would be a good fit, but what about pulling a 5' instead? I don't have any large open areas, mostly would be mowing undergrowth in tight areas... I'm working this weekend finally cleaning up the larger downed trees / branches, getting ready for mowing. The small saplings are just that, small... 1-2" max.

I really appreciate all of the input so far. Great advice! Will be making a purchase soon!

Get a 6' as the smaller size will not allow you to mow in any further than the length of the cutter itself. Also, build a plate to guard the underside of your tractor.

Watch this video and read the comments below the video to see why you want to armor up the underside of your tractor. Also, the underside armor I made that can be seen in this video has been replaced with a larger aluminum metal plate that is tougher than my original version 1 stuff (that I made after ripping a fuel line and nipple off of the fuel tank because the fuel line runs axially on my tractor as if it was meant to get ripped off from the underside) and covers the wiring into my transmission as well as the main hydro trans drain plug. For their part, I understand that Kioti has redesigned the soft parts.

 

[big bubba]

You offer a good point I didn't discuss on my cutter.

Two things I do:

I have my cutter set up so that the sides of the rear end drags on the surface (the part closest to the tractor) so that the cutter cuts things as close to the ground as it can (about a 2" lawn-mower cut, so to speak) while also preventing material from getting flung back at my tractor.

I also don't sharpen my blades so the cutter basically shreds what is cuts making things less sharp and too small to stand up to an industrial tire running it over. Also the ground I'm using the cutter on is all sphagnum, so really soft "dirt."

In the first video that I linked to I mowed the top of a birch tree windfall that was around 4" but all this to say if you look at the back of my mower, the metal reinforcement guard thingy that holds the chain on is bent up from my using the cutter to lean over smaller trees and mow them.

Around 15 or 16 minutes in I start mowing bigger stuff (that is growing way, way too close together to really get it done right).

sounds like you've got the equip & technique hooked up, good job

 

[Darth_DMack]

UPDATE:

So, it went like this. My Team Mate from work, brought over his 6' County Line (Tractor Supply) shear pin style rotary cutter over the weekend. I used it on some of my cutting work, and it worked flawlessly for me. He's had it about three years, and gave me some input.

For what I am going to use it for, this one seemed to work just fine. The tip speed on the blades made short work to what I needed... and my CFO (my lovely wife) said that the TSC County Line would fit my needs UNTIL I needed something more heavy duty... so, I purchased a brand new 6' County Line Rotary Cutter from TSC this morning. In SC, we have a SCATE (South Carolina Agriculture Tax Exemption) so I didn't have to pay taxes, plus I had a 10% off coupon, so I got the cutter for $1800 ish.

No, it's not a Land Pride, or a Bush Hog / Rhino... I know this. But, I can't beat the savings. I'm doing some welding / bracing on my standard duty box blade today, and will have my CL Rotary Cutter put together this evening.

Let me get some time on this and I will update my thoughts.

I really appreciate the input from you all. Way more experience than I have, for sure. I think it will serve me well, until it doesn't.

Cheers!