rpm's while working

[stratton]

Newbie here wondering what others have the rpms while working. I have a kubota b2320. I was told that during break in period i should keep the tractor around 2000, As far as using the backhoe is this a normal engine speed. There is a pto speed on the tach but i think thats at like 2500 or so.

 

[leonz]

Don't exceed the 2000 RPM for the back hoe either as you will be stressing the engine too much.

Do you really need to leave the back hoe on the tractor while its on its break in period?

 

[bp fick]

I think varying the rpm, as practical to do so, is more important. When mowing with the B2320, there was little choice but to wind her up to 2600 to achieve proper blade speed, and I saw no reason to be overly concerned about it.

I plowed today. Really tough, never been tilled before land. Pretty heavy sod. I like doing tough things with a new tractor. I have this thought that it is good to have a new engine work against resistance during some of the break in. I mostly ran the rpm at 2200-2300.

 

[stratton]

Thanks for the advice. Yeah we pretty much bought the tractor for the use of the backhoe. although I wont be using it to much this winter, Just blowing snow with it. I read a few articles on breaking in engines. They say to run them a little hard in all rpms. I am still nervous of doing this.

 

[TripleR]

I don't own a B, but have broken several others in, most recently an M8540 and I worked them all while going with the manual on varying RPM from time to time. I believe they were designed to work, so that is how I break them in and so far haven't had any tractor problems.

 

[johnrex62]

The break-in period is something of a mystery to me. The manual for my L3700SU simply says to not run it at full rpm for the first 50 hours. The setup mechanic that delivered my machine says it was broken it at the factory and no break-in is necessary. That is the gist of the "official" word I have received.

I tend to put more faith in the manual, but considering the complicated break-in automotive dealers recommend, it is plausible that the factory installs engines that have a basic break-in completed by machine. This would accomplish the variable rpm ramping. It would also support the caution about not running at full rpm for the additional hours since the rings and seals have already been set, but perhaps not cured in place.

 

[bp fick]

I'm with TripleR on this.

To me it is simple. If I cannot run my new tractor (B2320) at 2600-2800 rpm, then I cannot mow grass with my RFM. It's that easy to understand. Surely, the tractor can run pto speed during break-in, or one couldn't use the pto for over 50 hours, which makes no sense. Vary the rpm a few hundred, that's all.

Now, that rpm, isn't required for many/most things. It seems to have a sweet spot at 2000-2100 rpm and generates plenty of power to do most tasks.

I wouldn't want to break-in my engine doing one rpm for 50 hours, and I wouldn't want to have all those 50 hours be merely free spinning running the pto and mowing. Variety!! Within reason, pulling, grunting, plowing, lifting are all good things and the reason we bought the tractor in the first place.

You cannot break it in by just idling outside the shop.

 

[bp fick]

The setup mechanic that delivered my machine says it was broken it at the factory and no break-in is necessary. That is the gist of the "official" word I have received.

I highly doubt it.

I tend to put more faith in the manual,

There ya go!!

Best regards,

 

[kuboman]

I believe the break in the engine gets at the factory is a test run that might last a couple minutes. Breaking in the engine is not mysterious, just run it and avoid excessive idling. Working it hard is good for it just don't lug it.
Enjoy:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Giles]

I am a mechanic and have rebuilt many many engines. On a new machine, I think HEAT is the main issue. I would watch the temp. gauge, vary the RPMs and DON'T LUG (strain) the engine. By varying the RPMs I would occasionally run the engine wide open for a short time:thumbsup:

 

[rswyan]

To me it is simple. If I cannot run my new tractor (B2320) at 2600-2800 rpm, then I cannot mow grass with my RFM.

Why ?

Is there something special about the particular kind of grass you're growing ?

 

[Evil the Weasel]

Why ?

Is there something special about the particular kind of grass you're growing ?

Yes, it apparently has 7-9 leaves per plant.

 

[bp fick]

Why ?

Is there something special about the particular kind of grass you're growing ?

Yes, it apparently has 7-9 leaves per plant.

:laughing::laughing: Good one.

No, just saying that PTO speed on a BX was 2950.
On the B, the pto speed is 2600.

The point is that one could not effectively operate an MMM or RFM during the 50 hour break-in if one had to limit the rpm to 2000 or lower.

 

[rswyan]

The point is that one could not effectively operate an MMM or RFM during the 50 hour break-in if one had to limit the rpm to 2000 or lower.

Awww I dunno there fick ...... .... I regularly mow with the 72" MMM with my B2910 running about 1800 rpm ..... (PTO rpm for the engine is achieved at 2600 rpm) ..... seems to work pretty good.

I suppose if the grass was real tall/thick, and I was trying to go real fast (faster than is comfortable), it be might a problem ...