rustoleum and durability

[chopped]

My next project is to paint an older machine. I plan to use rustolem in the large spray cans. but have found in the past that it will dull and Id like something to possible spray over it so I can start with wax for protection and shine.
Ive heard of clear coat by have never used it,Is it a good choice for top coat?will it take wax? etc.
thanks.. Im dead set with the rustoleum paid and I can also touch it up later like I do my impliments.

 

[lutt]

If it helps, modern vehicles have a clear coat. Like you, I use rust oleum on my stuff. Never used a clear coat on it though. If you do, I would sure like to see the end result! LUTT

 

[MotorSeven]

Do you have a paint sprayer? If so, buy it at HD or Lowes in the gallon can($25 ish)...I have found it's a much better quality than in the rattle can Rustoleum.

 

[sld]

Do you have a paint sprayer? If so, buy it at HD or Lowes in the gallon can($25 ish)...I have found it's a much better quality than in the rattle can Rustoleum.

I've tried that with mixed results. What do you thin it with?

 

[varmint]

Don't know what type of paint you are referring to, but in spraying the Kubota urethane factory paint, which you can thin with mineral spirits, I finally bought some xylene, which is the preferred thinner, and man, what a better way to go! It slows down, slightly, the drying, and makes for easy coating and good leveling. I am an amateur painter, but I got great results. Any time I spray, it's my go-to thinner now. The pic is of a 6" sq. area, one coat, just as it came from the cheap spray gun. (you can see where I had masked off the surrounding fender...)

 

[George2615]

I like rustoleum also. I recently cleaned and repainted a flail mower I bought. I bought a quart can of sail blue (very close to LS blue) and sprayed it on with a $15.00 HF spray gun. Thinned the paint a little bit before putting in the gun. I could have used the spray cans but this way was much quicker and did a nice job. I think rustoleum also has clear in a spray also but never tried it.
I also cleaned and sprayed the box blade I bought at the same time. The scarifiers were done in rustoleum gloss black from the spray can.

 

[SPIKER]

When I have used that stuff it has lasted maybe 2 or 3 years IF that. Then it was back to RUST and CHIPS or nothing... sorry know ya are set on it but also know I'll never paint ANYTHING I intend to KEEP with it.

 

[ray66v]

If you don't want to spend more money, Industrial enamel is hard to beat.

The problem with these paints is, the low quality solvents they use in them do not evaporate quickly, and they get trapped in the film when it skins over. In order for it to cure, (reach maximum hardness), you need to get all the solvents out.

When I had a spray booth, I could bake something I painted with Rustoleum in there, and after about 6 hrs. total at 160 degrees, it would get pretty hard.

Using the the proper amount of isocyanate hardener sometimes offered with industrial enamel systems, will help speed up the curing process.

Placing items in the sun for a good week will also do a good job of driving out those solvents.

Adding clear over your color, (if it's even available for industrial enamel, I do not believe it is), will trap more solvents under a thicker film, and probably result in softer paint in the end.

All auto paint companies have low end single stage urethane systems that are more expensive than Rustoleum, but not real expensive. And they will provide a much better quality finish.

Some Sherwin Williams Automotive stores sell AIC Industrial coatings For fleets. And it's pretty good stuff. Like industrial enamel, there is a limited color pallet. The paint is not expensive. The hardener is a little expensive, because, it only comes in quarts, or gallons. You can buy, and use nail polish remover, (acetate), for reducer. I did some jobs with it a few years ago, and was really surprised how good they looked. They have held their gloss very well.

These paint systems need to be used with the proper protective equipment, and mixed carefully, for best performance. Putting in extra hardener, does NOT make it harder.

 

[roadhunter]

I've had better luck with the taller "professional" rustoleum. It seems to dry much faster which would be consistent with what others have said about the cheaper thinner staying in the paint and causing it to dry slowly.

Instead of a airless sprayer you might have better luck with a "paint pot" setup with a spray gun that runs on compressed air. I'm sure there is a proper term but its' just an aluminum can that has a hose to hook to air and another that goes to a spray gun. Works good for smaller paint jobs.

 

[chopped]

Thanks. I looked at My Lowes and found some of that.. safety blue. So I might go that route.I just wish that my local Lowes carried it also in rattle cans for touchup..

I've had better luck with the taller "professional" rustoleum. It seems to dry much faster which would be consistent with what others have said about the cheaper thinner staying in the paint and causing it to dry slowly.

Instead of a airless sprayer you might have better luck with a "paint pot" setup with a spray gun that runs on compressed air. I'm sure there is a proper term but its' just an aluminum can that has a hose to hook to air and another that goes to a spray gun. Works good for smaller paint jobs.

 

[chopped]

I saw some at the Lowes and I just might use that. Yes I have a sprayer so I could go that route.There isnt alot to spray ,thats why Im considering cans.But perhaps it isnt as think from the can. Im not looking for perfection, so I could actually brush it on.(dont like that idea LOL) Im assuming that ""INDUSTRIAL""" is better?

Do you have a paint sprayer? If so, buy it at HD or Lowes in the gallon can($25 ish)...I have found it's a much better quality than in the rattle can Rustoleum.

 

[chopped]

Nice results. My stuff is under cover but still fades with time.

I like rustoleum also. I recently cleaned and repainted a flail mower I bought. I bought a quart can of sail blue (very close to LS blue) and sprayed it on with a $15.00 HF spray gun. Thinned the paint a little bit before putting in the gun. I could have used the spray cans but this way was much quickThose are great results.Im just looking forsomething that will'seal'' it and provide some protection. But also be able to touch it up each year.er and did a nice job. I think rustoleum also has clear in a spray also but never tried it.
I also cleaned and sprayed the box blade I bought at the same time. The scarifiers were done in rustoleum gloss black from the spray can.

 

[MotorSeven]

I've tried that with mixed results. What do you thin it with?

It's been a while and I honestly don't remember....but it would have been what ever they recommended on the can.

 

[weldingisfun]

I use acetone to thin Rustoleum paints for spray painting and clean up with mineral spirits.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I know it sounds wrong, but can of paint and a roller and brush will give you a thicker longer lasting finish. It can look a little raw when first done,but after a couple times of use, it will look much better.

 

[chopped]

That is my thoughts also..

I know it sounds wrong, but can of paint and a roller and brush will give you a thicker longer lasting finish. It can look a little raw when first done,but after a couple times of use, it will look much better.

 

[Danno1]

.


Chopped,


I've used Rusto Flat Black on automotive wheels. I spray Rusto ClearSele over. Sometimes I've done "wet on wet", and sometimes I do a very thin base, let it flash off for a half hour*, and then spray the clear. As Ray66 says, it NEEDS to bake. I do this early on a hot day in the shade, and then put them in the sun to bake for a few hours. I don't have an oven that large!!! But it comes out very shiny.

Now I don't wax them, and they eventually dull, but they hold up w no chips or rust over many (10) New England winters on daily drivers. If you're doing tractor sheet metal, then you can wax this after it is fully cured. Your biggest enemy there is UV fr the sun.

I've also used this method on aluminum mud flap brackets. Now Al doesn't rust, but baked in the kitchen oven, the paint/clearcoat system resists the winter slush/sand/salt mixture (and summer mud runs) for many (like 5, 6, 7, or more) years from abrasion.




DC.


* Rusto says recoat inside 1 hour or after 48 hours.



.

 

[/pine]

I get quality lasting results using rustoleum...it is all in the preparation and priming...the primer must be allowed to cure before over-coating for long lasting results...

 

[cqaigy2]

Nice write-up on your technique. :thumbsup:

 

[Cherokee140]

Google 100$ paint job.

I have done it and if you have bad results you need to learn how to prep the surface first. 99% of every (this paint is garbage) post is due to poor surface prep or paint getting water/something it did not like in it. Most people that paint with Rusto will just shoot it over dirt, rust, bird droppings....everything and then wonder why it did not stick or last.

It is good paint easy to touch up pretty cheap. Good luck with your project.