Salesman said to only to use 4wd....

[Heywood Jannockitov]

It is not that each tire must be able to rotate at different speeds. The problem with negotiating a turn in 4WD is that both the front and back axles are geared to travel the same distance. Of course, the front axle is traveling in a larger radius than the back. Therefore, it is traveling further, (while rolling the same distance) as the back. Something has to give, and it is usually the reason for the scrubbing of the turf.

Bingo. This is why it isn't really felt on a short-wheelbase CUT, but a long wheelbase pickup in 4WD on dry pavement will really make its protest known if you try to turn. It's the lack of a "center" differential.

 

[txkevin]

guy that delivered mine and went over operation said if I use 4wd on pavement much I will go through tires pretty fast.....

 

[F.L. Jennings]

Of the 900 + hours I have on my L4200, 95% have been in 4WD. All off pavement hours. I tried for a while when the tractor was new to run in 2WD but as soon as I put it there I would have to go right back to 4WD to work in muddy bottoms, etc. I've seen no detrimental effects. Rear tires still look good but fronts have been replaced which was only due to age/natural wear.

 

[LRH]

2WD to 4WD back and forth as needed. 4WD on dry dirt/grass only as needed; when needed. Minor slips can usually be handled with locking diff, and as L Brown says; 4WD on low traction downhill slopes to achieve improved braking performance. That one is important to think of ahead of time along with not changing gear ranges.................

 

[PlumCrazy814]

As I was pulling out with my new 5100 the salesman said I should keep in in 2wd unless needed "like you would a car".
I didn't question that, until I nearly got stuck within the first 3 minutes of operating my brand new tractor. (Ag tires, VERY muddy property at times).

I've just kept it in 4wd ever since (soft ground everywhere I need to drive)- will something be worn out here?

I'm aware it isn't good to work wet ground by the way.

Thanks!

Not knowing a thing about the 5100, I would say that as long as you aren't stalling the wheels or in high range high gear/speed you should be ok on soft ground. I broke the front drive on my previous tractor by over stressing it trying to use it as a bulldozer. It took a lot of abuse to break it, and it was relatively easy and inexpensive to fix as the design was well thought out. The weak link was a splined coupling collar that was relatively easy to replace and inexpensive. The splines stripped out.
I ran that tractor in 4wd 99% of the time for ~15 years. The damage happened in year 2.

I am going to run my 2305 the same way - 4wd except at high speed or for long distances on pavement.

 

[orangebluegreen]

I always try to stay in 2wd and only use it when necessary but my conditions are probably nowhere near as severe. Depends on how familiar you are with where you're operating. I'm so used to my place I know where 4wd is needed and shift in without using the clutch (if the wheels are straight ahead and not going too fast) right before I get there. Some situations would rather go in with 2wd and if the tires slip you have an out by going to 4wd. If you go in with 4wd and all tires slip you might be in trouble if no loader is mounted to help you back your way out. I use the rear differential lock as last resort because to me it's a bit harsh and I've seen posts of breakage. I suspect 4wd is not too hard on anything because when I mow with a mmm wide open throttle after about 1.5 hours in 2wd my hydro fluid must heat enough to cause power steering loss. When I boxblade the limerock road at times I've been under full engine load (near bogging) at about 2000-2200 RPM in high and 4wd for nearly three hours straight and have never had the power steering loss. I slip the rear tires in 2wd with the boxblade. Kind of a crude non scientific evaluation, but an observation none the less that makes me figure running in 4wd must not be that stressful at least to my hydro.

Couple sites here talk about the front tires spinning slightly faster than rears.

Click on "info" and the "tire size matching"
http://www.tractorsmart.com/enter.htm

Also Firestone:
http://www.firestoneag.com/faqs_article.asp?faq=1230

 

[Tom_H]

I go back and forth, but as a general rule, I stay in 2wd unless 4wd is called for. I use the 4wd if going through mud, doing ground engagement work, or going in any direction on a slope. I stay in 2wd on pavement and also when cutting grass. If the clay beneath the turf is really saturated and I make a really sharp turn with the ag tires on and in 4wd, the front wheels can rip the turf off of the subsoil. All those conditions have to coincide, but when they do, the turf gets damaged.

Using 4wd with ags along with the differential override pedal has gotten me out of many a mudhole. Recently, though, I got stuck in the bottom of a muddy ditch with steep sides. Fortunately the FEL and BH were both on; I used them as legs to lift and "walk" the whole chassis out of the pit. I felt like I was driving one of those "Imperial Walker" tanks from the Star Wars movies.

 

[designz]

One thing that scares me about this is no front brakes going down hill If you happen to forget to put it in
4 wd first.
Tearing down hill with no brakes is a to late reminder i don't want to experience.

I can add my two cents here with a one (and only one I hope) experience in traveling down a hill with a small load (200 lbs) in the FEL and no ballast. Its a horrible feeling when you realize that the rear wheels have next to no braking ability, unless they can engage the ground...

 

[LBrown59]

I got stuck in the bottom of a muddy ditch with steep sides. .

I've never gotten a Kubota stuck.
The Bolens and MtD is a different story.

 

[Reg]

Bingo. This is why it isn't really felt on a short-wheelbase CUT, but a long wheelbase pickup in 4WD on dry pavement will really make its protest known if you try to turn. It's the lack of a "center" differential.

Not really,
There IS a centre diff, (at least on mine there is) it may or may not be locked.
On a tractor the front wheels have about a 5% lead over the rear, i.e. they turn faster when going straight ahead.
When turning some of that lead gets used up by the front taking a wider arc, when it is all used up there is no lead, if you turn tighter still there is lag.
MOST of the time you will be between zero and a little lead, unless you're doing what you shouldn't be doing in 4wd on hard dry pavement.

Mine just scrubs a bit, but it ain't a koo-boo-boo so I don't think it is going to fall apart as a result of just scrubbing it's tires.
YMMV, etc.