I am in need of a chainsaw with a minimum bar length of 24". I am considering the Stihl Ms391 (14.1 lbs., 4.4hp, $535.00), Husqvarna 460 Rancher (12.8 lbs., 3.7 hp, $470.00) and the Husqvarna 359 (12.1 lbs,3.9hp, $564.00). The Stihl hp looks good but the weight looks very substantial. The contender right nows looks to be the 359 Husqvarna as the power to weight ratio looks a little more manageable plus this saw this some pro features added to it that the 460 Rancher does not have like magnesium case. Any opinions on these 3 saws?
Saw needed with 24" bar
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Will_C
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24" bar? I would certainly opt for every bit of horsepower you can get...so my advice would be the Stihl 391. Will you be cutting hardwood or softwood? I would opt for a 372 Husky or a 460 Stihl if cutting hardwoods and a 24" bar was needed.
Will
Will
milkman636
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The Stihl MS460 is a very nice saw with a standard 24" bar. It does a great job cutting anything. I've had mine for 10 years now and have never regretted the making the investment. It is a workout for the left bicep, but makes real short work of big trees.
westbrooklawn
Platinum Member
The Stihl/Husky debate is just like the Chevy/Ford debate... both are great saws... I just happen to be a Husky/Ford person! I own 4 Husky saws, one being the 359. I have a 20" on mine, but think it would pull a 24" fine. The real secret is to keep your chains sharp and let the saw do the cutting... don't force it.
Having said all that, if I was looking for a dedicated 24" saw it would be the Husky 372... a little pricey at $800, but it is a hoss, and will last forever.
Having said all that, if I was looking for a dedicated 24" saw it would be the Husky 372... a little pricey at $800, but it is a hoss, and will last forever.
skipmarcy
Veteran Member
I bought the 460 Rancher new a couple months ago and got the 20" setup, have cut quite a few larger red & white oaks and several very large hickory trees and cut them up for firewood. I don't think I'd want the 24" on this saw, it cuts very well but can bog fairly easy, especially with a good sharp chain - it cuts so well the weight of the saw wants to push it thru too quick and will bog it some. I find myself having to hold the saw back a little on larger pieces ( over 20" in dia) and it wears me out quicker. Maybe it's my technique - I'm definitely not a pro, and I'm also no spring chicken anymore so maybe the saw is doing better than I am !! On top of that most of this cutting has been during the break-in period on the saw so it might get better as I go along - I've got maybe 15 hours on it and Husky says the break-in period is 10 hours. I'm definitely pleased with the saw in every other aspect - starts & runs very well and fuel & oil economy is good and I like the adjustable oil flow, I just think 20" would be about the max for this power range.
arrow
Super Member
All of the above mentioned saws are small for 24". Here is why and perhaps clarification as to why you feel the need for a 24" saw would be helpful. Any of these saws will turn a 24" bar but the problem arises when the bar is fully or mostly buried in the cut. If you were limbing and wanted a longer bar to save your back, any of the saws mentioned will do the job but unless you approach 5 hp or more, saws get sluggish when using an oversize bar too large for what the chainsaw was intended no matter what the advertising copy might say. Thicker trees call for longer bars and thus engine sizes move up. If you do not care how long it takes to go thru a round, then any of the saws would work but if you are looking for any kind of efficient production for such trees because you have many, you need larger saws than mentioned. Husky 372, Dolmar 7900, Sthil 441, ( or even a 362 CQ if you were just occasionally needing a 24" bar),Echo 600 series etc. Much depends on how you are going to use your saw and more importantly,how often the need for a longer bar presnts itself and of course your patience factor.
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Rustyiron
Super Member
What Arrow said.
70cc + to bury a 24" bar in hardwood.
70cc + to bury a 24" bar in hardwood.
Piston
Elite Member
+1
but if you don't need to bury the bar all the time, my ms361 and ms 362 do just fine with the 25" bar. I bury it on occasion and just took down a 30" dbh white oak with it 2 weeks ago, no problems but had to go a lot slower than a larger saw.
90% of the time i'm not using the full length, probably more like 95% of the time. I prefer the smallest saw I can use efficiently and still be able to pull the 25" bar when needed. If your gonna go with the 391 I would step up to the 362. I've been very happy with both of mine and they've done a lot of work :thumbsup:
You may be able to get more power for your money from husky.
arrow
Super Member
Not to hijack the thread Rusty but I would love to see more pictures of that snow plow you have mounted on your rig as pictured on your avatar.
Chilly807
Elite Member
Add me to this crowd... I've got an older 72cc Stihl 044 (same as MS441) and it's absolute hel( on wheels with a 20 inch bar, no reason it wouldn't pull a 24" bar with ease. It shows no real difference whether I'm in hard or soft wood, which means the saw is up to full chain speed in both.
If you only occasionally need a 24" saw for a few cuts, I'd recommend a smaller saw and a spare bar for those occasions. It'll be slower cutting but will get the job done. Sometimes quick is good, like when you're felling a bad tree and the wind is gusty.
For a minimum size for regular use, a 372 Husky or a Stihl MS441 would be my choices. The price isn't pretty though :shocked: I got mine in pieces and built one saw out of two, so it was more reasonably priced.
Sean
I currently own a a Husky 142 with 14" bar used for limbing and a late 80" s model Stihl 026 with 18" bar that still runs great. So, I am able to cut up to 36" rounds but I have 2 trees down at the farm that the diameter is in the 42"-48" range at the last 15 foot or so of the trunk.
I have talked to a few people about getting them to remove them for me but the price is in line with a saw in the 500-600 dollar range. For this much money I can buy a new saw with a 24" bar and still have the saw after the job is done.
Time wise my need for a 24" bar is probably likely less than 3-4 hours, so a saw in the 800.00 dollar range is not feasible.
One other saw that I found is the Husky 570. This is a 4.9 hp with 24" bar for around 650.00 and can go to 28" bar. This is the upper limit I would consider investing for my limited need right now. One thing I did notice was a little metal tag on saw that said "Made in Sweden". The Husky 460 and 359 did not have this tag I do not believe or at least I did not notice it. Is the 570 The cheapest Husky in this size range made in sweden?
I have talked to a few people about getting them to remove them for me but the price is in line with a saw in the 500-600 dollar range. For this much money I can buy a new saw with a 24" bar and still have the saw after the job is done.
Time wise my need for a 24" bar is probably likely less than 3-4 hours, so a saw in the 800.00 dollar range is not feasible.
One other saw that I found is the Husky 570. This is a 4.9 hp with 24" bar for around 650.00 and can go to 28" bar. This is the upper limit I would consider investing for my limited need right now. One thing I did notice was a little metal tag on saw that said "Made in Sweden". The Husky 460 and 359 did not have this tag I do not believe or at least I did not notice it. Is the 570 The cheapest Husky in this size range made in sweden?
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arrow
Super Member
WrongI mentioned a MS660 with 24" 25" :laughing:
Sorry I just had to correct that.
I meant all the saws in the op's first post.
Just messing with you
. I always go overkill with saw selection. Rather have to much then wishing for more later.I had a new 570 68cc with 20" and sold it for $500. Shop around they couldnt have went up that much.
The 570 is basically the 575xp with smaller bore and low profile air filter.
I was impressed with it for a stock saw with 20" buried in hardwoods ripping. It is just a tad heavy for it size but would definitely take it over the other 2 saws you have listed in first post.
Just another thought on used. I have a 268xp with a new aftermarket 272 top end 72cc and only a couple of tanks through it on the shelf. Half the cost of 570.
The 570 is basically the 575xp with smaller bore and low profile air filter.
I was impressed with it for a stock saw with 20" buried in hardwoods ripping. It is just a tad heavy for it size but would definitely take it over the other 2 saws you have listed in first post.
Just another thought on used. I have a 268xp with a new aftermarket 272 top end 72cc and only a couple of tanks through it on the shelf. Half the cost of 570.
arrow
Super Member
I think we need to back up a bit. When you say *down at the farm", do you mean the trees are "down" at the farm or "down at the farm". If indeed they are still standing at the farm and are 4 feet across and of the sprawling nature, have them cut down. Big trees can make you dead quite fast. There are techniques I know to get trees cut more than twice the bar length that involve fan,plunge and notch cuts, but I'd need to show you rather than talk you through it as you can do this job with a 20 " bar but we never cut a sprawling 4' tree down without limbing it first because even down without limbing, these trees can create your end of days right quick. Plus, we had all the equipment.
I do not know the answer to your second part as I have seen Husky saws that say "Sweden" on them but the box says "made in America". Who knows but the saw is a cut down version of the 575 which was not too well received when it first came out. The 570
is a cut down version of the 575 as xyz states. Saw is heavy for the power it makes but it will cut up those trees. Here's a proposition. If you have the trees professionally cut down, I'll inform you of techniques to cut up the tree with your current Sthil with 18" bar. Even this will be dangerous so it might be good to have only the fat parts cut up by the pro's or work up something with local haulers to sell the stems to a lumber mill.
Trees were blown down by storms recently. One huge maple tree snapped off about 10 feet from ground and one oak snapped about 5 feet from ground, tossed around 30 feet from stump before landing.
Thanks for your safety concerns. If these were standing trees I would not even consider doing it but I have been using chainsaws for more than 30 years so it's not like I haven't had to do this with smaller trees before.
Rustyiron
Super Member
Arrow I'll put a few over in the snow rem. side for you.
Chili I got an old 044 also, it's the one I grab first out of my bunch of saws!
