Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

[s219]

Brandi, it sounds like you should install a Goldenrod water separating filter on your tank. I swear by them. I have used both types but prefer the clear bowl with inner filter since you can see and drain any water. I believe it filters other gunk down to 10 microns or so.

Fuel Tank Filters | Dutton-Lainson Company

www.dutton-lainson.com

In a humid environment, you can accumulate water in a tank from repetitive condensation. It will happen even in a new tank, whether metal or plastic.

 

[bindian]

I did that right after I bought the tank. Clear bowl.............nothing but fuel in it.
hugs, Brandi

 

[amarsh64]

Pushing a small road down into the woods to set up the new sawmill . I will get 5 tandem loads of shale this Saturday to finish it off and make a nice flat place about 100 feet in for the mill. Cleaning up the logs and the brush as I get down in there with the tractor. Getting closer to milling time !

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

Our annual monsoon finally subsided about a week ago and its just dry enough that I could run the tractor to set the saw head and get the re-purposed shed into place for lumber storage.

 

[dlctcg]

Got my sawmill back from the engine shop. Nothing found but lots of debris and some water in the tank. I had removed the sawmill's tank and flushed it out two weeks ago, so the debris and water was from one 5 gallon can. So my nice 116 gallon non metal fuel storage tank with a lid and pump must be the bad guy. Bad thing about this tank is after I won the bid on it at RBAuction in Houston, I realized it doesn't have a sump drain. So I will be getting rid of it.

They put fresh fuel in and ran over 30 minutes with no problems. They also put Agri Clean fuel additive in. Says it mulsifies the water in the fuel, so little water droplets instead of a big blob going thru the injector pump, if it gets in at all now.
Until I get my fuel storage tank cleaned out, I will have to strain fuel into a five gallon bucket, then pour it into a fuel can with a strainer funnel and leave any water at the bottom of the bucket. I got abut 100 gallons of it with Power Service in it. Don't want to mix the Power Service and the Agri Clean together, so fueling will be a whole 'nother ball game for awhile.

So RustyIron..................it wasn't anything related to the Yanmar and it being TIER-IV. It just doesn't do well on not so clean fuel....................like my older broke in machinery.
hugs, Brandi

I know this sound naïve (almost to simple) but I have been using a Mr. Funnel for both my Diesel & regular Petroleum Fuel for all my equipment for many years... It just works... filters out fine debris & water... Again... It works for me... so might be an option...

 

[bindian]

It wasn't the fuel.
After I got the sawmill back home, I finished the 50 hour servicing. This 50 hour had me looking at the alternator belt. Before I got the shrouds off.......................I saw pieces of the Woodmizer alternator belt and had enough slack to pull it down about 4 inches. It was off and only had 3 of the 6 ribs left. But it still had two ribs still making a loop. The next morning, I rushed to my local Advanced Auto store, where they had one.

Also, the Woodmizer alternator tensioner pulley was rusted over where the back of the belt should make it shiny. So I figure the belt had been off about 2 months, the length of time I have been having the issue.

Got it on and tensioned up the drive belt and adjusted the brake. Ran fine and have over 3.5 hours of sawing now. My electric head up and down motors are running faster now.

Don't know where the Yanmar service center got the dirty fuel, but it was not from my tank. Guess they had to find something to justify the 4 hours of labor. Anyway...........I had about 3 gallons left in a 5 gallon fuel can that I got out of the storage tank and poured two gallons in the sawmill weeks ago. This from the suspected storage tank. I poured the 3 gallons left in the can into a bucket and it was clean with NO water. I have been running on that fuel for about 2.8 hours.

So, I am convinced it was not a fuel quality or quantity issue, but an electrical issue (Woodmizer alternator belt off) and the Yanmar alternator was powering my whole sawmill. I have been telling Woodmizer and the Yanmar dealer for months I felt like it was a electrical issue. As it would crank up and run fine for about 10 minutes. They both said it was a fuel issue, and that low voltage would trigger a fault code. To which I asked..............how do we know my fault code indicator is working as normal? Y'all (Woodmizer leaves the Yanmar alternator installed so as to not change out the belt for the water pump.) wired in an alternator that is suppose to not be wired into the system. I stated that voltage always was fine, it was just the small Yanmar alternator is limited in amperage. The Yanmar dealer did not run hydraulics and the sawhead electric motors in their troubleshooting............they just ran the engine thinking it was a fuel issue.
I have even been sent instructions how to disable the Yanmar alternator. I ask why, as my mill has been running fine for 4 years............until the Woodmizer alternator belt came off.
So the mill is tuned in and making money again. Well, when it is below 98 degrees.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^^^^

I’ll take “Things that make you go ARRRGH!” For 5000, Alex.

 

[future_vision]

Anyone have ideas for how they would use a 200 sqft space for a bandsaw mill, storage shed and maybe a solar kiln? Not 200 sqft for all three but each maxed at 200 sqft. IU can build that big without permits. Bonus if the can be movable. I imagine at some point I'd want to move them to a more convenient location.

 

[deezler]

200 sq ft is a litle small for the bandsaw mill shed, but I suppose a 20x10 roof structure would cover most any mill. Simple post frame, single slope roof. Fully open front side for log loading means you need a huge 20' front header beam (LVLs, etc). This structure won't be moveable.

200sq ft is plenty big enough for a solar kiln though. My plans in my brain for mine, are about 14-16 long by 6 feet deep or so. Facing south of course, with full doors on the rear north side for loading/unloading. 7 or 8 foot long doors are gonna be kind of unwieldy though, haven't through that part through yet. Sitting on concrete blocks with reinforced or sturdy enough areas for fork loading it, your DK6010 should be able to pick it up ok.

Storage shed can be on skid runners and get dragged around as needed, BUT. Really you are best off planning these buildings in locations where they simply do not need to be moved. Think it through and plan it out. It's not like you'll stop doing this kind of work someday, right? Go with the convenient location for each thing NOW. Just my 2c.

 

[future_vision]

200 sq ft is a litle small for the bandsaw mill shed, but I suppose a 20x10 roof structure would cover most any mill. Simple post frame, single slope roof. Fully open front side for log loading means you need a huge 20' front header beam (LVLs, etc). This structure won't be moveable.

200sq ft is plenty big enough for a solar kiln though. My plans in my brain for mine, are about 14-16 long by 6 feet deep or so. Facing south of course, with full doors on the rear north side for loading/unloading. 7 or 8 foot long doors are gonna be kind of unwieldy though, haven't through that part through yet. Sitting on concrete blocks with reinforced or sturdy enough areas for fork loading it, your DK6010 should be able to pick it up ok.

Storage shed can be on skid runners and get dragged around as needed, BUT. Really you are best off planning these buildings in locations where they simply do not need to be moved. Think it through and plan it out. It's not like you'll stop doing this kind of work someday, right? Go with the convenient location for each thing NOW. Just my 2c.

Could be creative and create two structures for the mill and either push them together and not attach them or separate them a bit and span the mill across the opening(extend the roof to touch the other to cover that span.. That might actually be interesting since it would allow me to go deeper/wider for both structures and still be within that 200 sqft. Then both could be movable. Of course leveling both structures along the same plane might be a challenge.