Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

[amarsh64]

I also went with the normal scale on the mill and do the calculations in my head to compensate for the saw cuts as I go. This is what I am used to at my work and I find it works best for me on the sawmill as well.

 

[KilroyJC]

The pointer on my log scale was annoying me. It obscures an inch and a half of the graduations when moving up and down. I noticed on some of the other woodland mills sawmills that they had a clear pointer so I made one out of Lexan for my 130 to try it. I like this way better. It was throwing me the way it was so this is a good fix.

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The scale on my WoodMizer (which was applied to the scale plate at the factory so I DID NOT SCREW IT UP) is reading about 11/16” off, so WM is mailing me a new scale sticker to apply over the old one.

which means I won’t have to do mental gymnastics figgerin’ out the math with my shoes on. . .

 

[amarsh64]

The scale on my WoodMizer (which was applied to the scale plate at the factory so I DID NOT SCREW IT UP) is reading about 11/16” off, so WM is mailing me a new scale sticker to apply over the old one.

which means I won’t have to do mental gymnastics figgerin’ out the math with my shoes on. . .

That would have been a head scratcher until you checked your scale and saw the problem . You would not see that coming . The saving grace for me is that I work with fractions all day every work day so it is second nature to me.

 

[Jstpssng]

Mine is adjustable but the assembly directions were terrible. It took me a while to get it calibrated and even longer to figur out why I the last cut left about a 1 5/8 thick board. As I was putting it together I wondered what the bolts on the bottm of the carriage did... I finally put 2 and two together and realized they adjusted how low the saw head would go.

The scale on my WoodMizer (which was applied to the scale plate at the factory so I DID NOT SCREW IT UP) is reading about 11/16” off, so WM is mailing me a new scale sticker to apply over the old one.

which means I won’t have to do mental gymnastics figgerin’ out the math with my shoes on. . .

 

[amarsh64]

Resetting the rule on a woodland mill saw is really easy. Once the saw head is adjusted to level you simply put the magnetic rule on the metal post and slide it up and down behind the pointer to match the height of the blade off the bunk . I like its simplicity.

 

[Jstpssng]

Resetting the rule on a woodland mill saw is really easy. Once the saw head is adjusted to level you simply put the magnetic rule on the metal post and slide it up and down behind the pointer to match the height of the blade off the bunk . I like its simplici

I have to loosen 2 bolts and move the scale.

 

[Rustyiron]

My saw has an early version of their (Timberking's) setworks. It's not working and the previous owner apparently had problems with it also.
Sure would be nice to have it.

 

[KilroyJC]

Mine is adjustable but the assembly directions were terrible. It took me a while to get it calibrated and even longer to figur out why I the last cut left about a 1 5/8 thick board. As I was putting it together I wondered what the bolts on the bottm of the carriage did... I finally put 2 and two together and realized they adjusted how low the saw head would go.

My directions say to first set the stop bolts for exactly one inch. Later, it says to set the blade rollers for 1/4” deflection downward. So I should be able to get a final,board of 3/4. However, Technical Hotline Dude said not to cut less than one inch. . .

screw it - the blade just clears the fixed stop on the bed crossmember at 3/4” without touching and that is what I am running with.

this week I am going to clean out enough of the workshop to get to my lathe and turn an ABS Go/No-Go gauge at .750/.775 to set the blade height consistently across the width of the bed.

then I should market them. . .

 

[amarsh64]

I cut my first couple of poplar logs on the mill today. (the first bunch of logs on the pile were spruce).
It is really nice and white as opposed to the green hue that a lot of poplar that we sell at my work has. I am not sure of the exact type of poplar I have but there is a ton of it on my property. I will do a little research just for the fun of it .The color should make it more stainable and more desirable for selling. Once I get my solar kiln up and running this stuff should sell well with the weekend warriors . Great for furniture and such.
One thing I did notice is that there is more tension in it than the spruce. When I got to my last cut the last piece on the saw bunks had a bit of a bowtie effect going on. It was slowly bowing more the whole time. When I get to cutting stock for the kiln I will try taking a bit more care and flip the cant every one or two cuts to bring the wood back some. I am guessing it is the same as planing lumber . If you take it all off one side your wood will almost always bow. I have lots of time and I don't want to have the last piece misshaped every time.

 

[Jstpssng]

Poplar makes some nice boards. I hope to eventually saw out a few, although most of my larger trees have already been sold to the OSB mill. Still it grows fast, and I think it would make a nice interior if I ever build a camp.