Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #51  
Couple pics Backroad.
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3 rows of rebar in side ftings. and 4 rows each direction incenter pads.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #52  
Mr. CMYoung, did you create adding the second set of wheels to your BCS, or is that a standard feature?

Brilliant job on figuring out how to work the slope!
It is fairly easy to dual up a BCS. I use 3" wheel extensions from the tractor hub to the first set of tires, then a 6" extension for the second set. My wheels are adjustable, I just adjust till they fit. The tires are foam filled, adds 20+ pounds each. Each of the 6" extensions is filled with about 8lbs of lead (Pb) for more weight. The outside tires have chains. I only use duals when I really need traction, it is a heavy machine to try to turn, or sometimes to keep straight. Usually I use one set of tires with chains for snow, no chains for most yard/garden work. You can get all the extensions to either spread the wheel base out or to add duals from Earth Tools. I set my width depending on the implement, but mostly as wide as possible. You can turn one of these thing over, don't ask me how I know. :)
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #53  
Couple pics Backroad.
View attachment 739574
View attachment 739575
3 rows of rebar in side ftings. and 4 rows each direction incenter pads.


Very nice work Billrog. I like the western heavy timber style. Very different from back east. Why do you form the tops of your footings like that. Is it to keep the wall/floor framing up from the moisture line or something else ??

gg
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #54  
Yes Gordon I put a curb on them to keep the exterior walls and posts above the floor.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #55  
Many ways to deal with warping after stickering the lumber this is the one I found works best for me. You can give the ratchet a few clicks every day or so as the wood shrinks Usually a couple wks. then every wk. or so. Also found it's best to keep the stickers within 2" of the end of the lumber.

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If you bevel the end of the top and bottom 2x4 under the strap it makes it much easier to tighten.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!
  • Thread Starter
#56  
^^^^^
Thank you for those pictures and tips. 👍
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!
  • Thread Starter
#57  
40728CCB-AD52-4CCD-BE8A-9416425315E6.jpegE2ECE03F-1A07-44B0-BFEF-88DBAD71C85F.jpeg
I finally sawed a couple of cedar logs, then decided that I wanted some 4x4s to stack them on. I had a couple of small ash in an area I plan to clear sometime... you could say I tried to polish a turd.:poop:
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #58  
I finally sawed a couple of cedar logs, then decided that I wanted some 4x4s to stack them on. I had a couple of small ash in an area I plan to clear sometime... you could say I tried to polish a turd.:poop:
haha! A fine turd, indeed. You're sawing, and making boards, and that kicks a$$.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #59  
 
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