Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #121  
Finally getting my Mill setup, been off and on rain for the last 6 weeks.

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   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #122  
Are you saying that sawmills are like tractors and boats, you always want something a little bigger? :D
I thought a laser might be handy, but since I started using my mill I hadn't even thought about it until it was mentioned above.
Of course. Most of my pine logs are in the 22-24" range, a close fit. Then a friend needed a big ash taken out of his pasture, had to use the first 10' as firewood, just way too big for the mill.
Are you saying that sawmills are like tractors and boats, you always want something a little bigger? :D
I thought a laser might be handy, but since I started using my mill I hadn't even thought about it until it was mentioned above.
Of course. Most of my pine logs are in the 22-24" range, a close fit. Then a friend needed a big ash taken out of his pasture, had to use the first 10' as firewood, just way too big for the mill. And if you look back at post #30 you can see some of my logging equipment. I use the BCS walk behind because it is too steep to pull a 2000 lb log with a BX2230, so maybe a bigger tractor may be in the future.😉
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #123  
Yeah I figured until I get a roof of some sort the laser would be hit and miss . I also have trees all around me so that should help .
My Woodlander is the portable one, may have a shed sometime in the future, probably distant future- Just like a bigger tractor.
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #124  
Rustyiron,
I like the idea of the clear roof panels. How do you like them? If you did it over, would you still put them in? Do they have a warranty for so many years?
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #125  
Rustyiron,
I also like your scaffold. It the deck 4 foot off the ground? How about a few more photos of it?
I am going to make one to wrap around my 6x6 posts so I can notch both sides of them for full size 2x12s......13 feet up.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #126  
Rustyiron,
I like the idea of the clear roof panels. How do you like them? If you did it over, would you still put them in? Do they have a warranty for so many years?
hugs, Brandi
Brandi this is the 3rd time I've used them, almost as clear as glass. It's a polycarbonate panel with a very good warranty. My oldest panels are 5-6 years old and the same appearance as the new.
A far stretch from the translucent fiberglass.
That little scaffold is a very handy helper, especially working alone. I made it out of stuff I had around. Yes the standing level is about 4' it's heavy enough to use it just standing there allowing you to reach 10-11 feet without lifting it. The deck is almost 4x12 .
I'll have to get some pictures for you. It wasn't the center of attention in the any of the many photos it's in!
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #127  
Translucent fiberglass is why I asked. I have it in green over my deck and it didn't hit the warranty threshold. Is it about the same price as the tin?
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #128  
I'll have to build a fork movable work platform when I notch the tops of the 6x6s to accept two 2x12 top sill joists. The center will be open for the post. So I will be able to work all around each post notching out for the two 2x12s.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures! #129  
I sawed out a small cedar today. I needed (two) 4x4 posts and also got some 2x4s. More practice is needed, as I am getting too many waves in the boards. I believe that's speed related, I need to work on a more steady movement through the log.
I also am considering a chainsaw mounted debarker, the wood seems clean and was cut with snow on the ground yet my blade is already getting dull.

Right now I have a pine log on the deck which I cut last summer. I wanted to saw more tonight but it was end of the day after work, and that's when I start making stupid mistakes.
Reading back through this thread, I saw your comment about wavy cuts in cedar. While cutting some maple today with a friend, I mentioned I have some cedar to cut up for a deer blind. He said cedar is a hard item to cut and I will dull blades faster. Don't know if true or not, will find out latter.

But on the wavy cuts, I notice while cutting 20" red pine and pushing a blade past its sharpness, I had some wavy areas, especially at the knots. Changing to a new blade and back to straight cuts. Maybe you have since found that out.

Also cutting 16" x 8ft maple is a whole lot easier than the 20" red pine. 2" x 13"-/+ x12ft slabs are heavy. Jon
 
   / Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!
  • Thread Starter
#130  
But on the wavy cuts, I notice while cutting 20" red pine and pushing a blade past its sharpness, I had some wavy areas, especially at the knots. Changing to a new blade and back to straight cuts. Maybe you have since found that out.
Yes I did figure that out, but thank you for mentioning it. Another thing I realized is that I sometimes am trying to saw too fast.
I also am washing my logs with a garden hose, hopefully that will prolong my blade life.
 
 
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