Scaffold question

/ Scaffold question #1  

kbiddle

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Lawrence Co. Indiana
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06 Kubota 3830 HST,. 07 Kubota 1100RTV, 02 Kawasaki 650
Hi all ,
Not sure if this quesiton goes here or should be someplace else if not moderator please move it...
OK so here it goes..
I have been trying for the past several weeks to locate some scaffold... I have tried several differnt internet site to no avail and was curious is someone had a good manufature or dealer suggestion to start...

I am in the process of getting ready to start an exterior restoration on our old farmhouse... CIRCA 1780 something... at any rate I would like to be able to setup on one side of my house to work on that and then take down and move to the remaining 3... The side I am starting on is 25' long 2 story with a peak in the middle which is essentially 3 story but only a small span.

The couple of site I have looked at it comes in variable widths... seems like 10 and 7 feet are the most common, and a standard 5 foot width and 6 and 1/2 feet high...
So my thought is I could but 4 x 10' and 2 x7 (the very top for the peak) and all the jack screws rails etc... but I dont know a couple of thing so here is one of my question...
On the first floor... would I have to use 4 section two 10' right next to each other....IE side by side or 3...1 at each and 1 in the middle?
Any insight/tips/watch out for/etc anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated..
Thank you...
 
/ Scaffold question #2  
I would check the on-line yellowpages for an outfit that caters to the local construction trade in your area - they are usually alot less expensive than the big-box stores selling the same thing.
 
/ Scaffold question #3  
Go to a construction supply center with drawings and/or pictures. They will be able to help with sizes, braces, levelers and etc. You could then go home to think it over and maybe due some comparing with the other stores prices on materials. Even though your only going 2 stories be sure of your scaffold and rigging. They don't give any warning when they fail!
 
/ Scaffold question #4  
Make sure you purchase screw jacks for the scaffold legs. They make it nice to level the scaffold and also adds some height. Wheeled jacks are a real nice option, just roll the scaffold to it's next work area. Think of some fall protection to use when your working off the scaffold. Be safe rather than sorry.
 
/ Scaffold question #5  
There is also Scaffold rental companys. When I need to buy I go to Masonary suppy yards.

As for your question about staging. Rather than two sets of tens, it is preferable to use 3 singles joined together with X braces. One at each end and one in the middle.
 
/ Scaffold question #6  
I bought my scaffolding from Scaffold, Scaffolding, Truck Boxes, Pump Jacks, JOBOX|Scaffold. They beat the local prices and were here in two days. They have free shipping over 600 dollars worth. I bought the yellow scaffolds. Make sure that you get the walk boards with them. I bought a 3x5 section for the top so I would not walk off the end of the walk boards. As Piperflyer says buy the screw jacks. I also got the wheel kit but it more than likely won't work on exterior very well unless you have a lot of concrete on outside. big dan
 
/ Scaffold question #7  
I have worked with every kind of Scaffolding there is. The only reason I would use Pipe staging is if I was doing mason work. It is always in the way of where your work is or it is 2 close or 2 far from the building. My staging of choice is Ladder jack especially on 2 & 3 story structures. It is the most versatile staging you can use. Unless you have strait open walls or your staging over a public walkway Pipe staging is very limited i what you can do with it.

I would recommend 28' , 24' , 16' extension ladders. a pair of aluminum ladder jacks, a 24' Stinson wing & a 16' adjustable staging plank.

These pieces will let you stage around any obstacle, there will only be the building in front of you, it is very easy to move as well as store. You will find it useful for years to come. 1 note though be sure to buy either Blue or Black tipped ladders. 250 or 300 pound duty rated.

I was a restoration contractor for many years. I specialized in 17 and 18 century. I live in Massachusetts, I can not even count how many homes I have done on the Historic register. Queen Ann Victorians offer the greatest challenge. Feel free to ask me anything you want on exterior restoration. I am quite an authority on antique homes.
 
/ Scaffold question #8  
Hear is a Tip always tell them your a contractor and make sure you get a contractors discount regardless of what you buy. I have always bought my equipment at Lynn Ladder but I posted the links so you can research the variety of options you have for staging. A 28' Ladder will get you into the gable at full extension with a Stabilizer & I highly recommend them on all ladders {they are very cheep} A 40 will be more comfortable but it is a ladder that is rarely used but nice when you need it. The more overlap on a ladder you have the less bounce you get out of it.

Lynn Ladder & Scaffolding

Werner Ladder
 
/ Scaffold question #9  
Sounds like a job for "pump" jacks. At 25', it would take a lot of sections or a lot of moving your bucks. Pump jacks are devices made to craw up (2) vertical- 2x4s stagered. The verticals are set on a soild foot and are placed about 2' away from the house. Nailing a small sheet of plywood on the roof with a square hole for the (2)-2x4s to go through. If you have a real tall run, I like to secure it at a mid point to take any woble out. I don't like heights much but if you use a sturdy hand rail and a 16"-24" wide pic board, it will feel prety confortable. You will need 3 pump jacks, one at each end and one in the middle. Two 14-16' aluminum pick boards and enough 2x4s the make 3 posts. I use a ladder to get up to the level where I'm working to avoid all the pumping. (Or go out a window)

To me, scafold only make sense if it can be rolled or if you cover the entire wall.

Good luck and be safe

Patrick T
 
/ Scaffold question #10  
Painters poles are even better than pump jacks. 1 person can set them, you just screw 2 eye hooks into the faisa & run the anchor rods up on the pulley and drop them into the eyelets. I love them everything is on a block & tackle. If you using Pumps The aluminum ones are the best. I am not a fan of anchoring to the roof though
 
/ Scaffold question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Guys,
Thank you for all the feedback but... I am not familar with pump jacks and how they work... so I will have to do some research on that... and I really dont want to attach anything to the roof if at all possible..

Here is what I am up against...
I need to start at the fascia and tear everything down... soffit, freeze board and existing wood siding...
There are a couple of reasons for this... mainly being to inspect the structure was a water leak at some point prior to me purchasing the house, secondly is to reframe the windows... (If you can call them that).... and lastly is to add insulation....
The plan is to do a rip-off of existing ..evaluate and replace as need be... existing structure is balloon framed... insulate, re-deck, house wrap and blue board in prep for siding next spring...probably with insulated siding...

My original thought was to be able to put up scaffold on the one side to work at my own pace as I will be doing 99% of the work by myself...

So now I guess I need to go look at pump jacks and compare them to the scaffold options..
Thank you...
 
/ Scaffold question #12  
That is pretty ambitious are you really sure you want to tear that much out. I don't know what your working with but that might be Overkill. Unless you have advanced rot or insect infestation you might be getting in pretty deep. If you have Identified and repaired the leak that problem is solved. There is nothing wrong with Balloon construction in fact it is pretty common in certain time periods. As far as putting in new windows are concerned there is a number of ways to deal with that. Do me a favor post some pictures of the structure you working on. You have my curiosity. Let me see what your working with. There is a bunch of us hear that know a great deal about doing restorations. Antique homes are a Pandora's box. You really do need to plan out what you think you want to do. You can get in way over your head pretty quick.

Look at the link for lynn ladder it will show you all the different kinds of equipment available. Ladder jacks are you best investment with a longtime project like this. Your going to need the versatility
 
/ Scaffold question
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Timber,
Sure thing will do...I agree it is a really large undertaking... I used to run a construction crew right out of school...

Like I said the main reason is I need/want to see what the heck is up under the bonnet so to speak... the house leaks like a sive from an air standpoint... yes the water issue is solved...

Maybe let me be a little more clear on what I am dealing with but I will also get up some picture here in a bit...

The original structure the middle was built late 1700's all 12 x 12 timber frame... now covered with drywall... there were two additions put on over th years I have added a third... 20x20 two story new kitchen and bath.
At any rate they have all been kind of cobbled together over time...

This of course leads to about a million different levels on the exterior...
Now granted I know I could furr out blue board and go from there probably blow in some cellouse and call it a day....but that would always leave me wondering... and oh yeah the one other slight issue is that everything shakes when U walk though the house... now not bad mind you but some for sure...
so I will be adding some cripple brace's when I open the sides....

The second phase will be to do the same process to the interior... which is a gut and redo basically... I have considered just rebuilding but I think in the long run this will be the best bet...

Pictures to follow here shortly...
Again I appreciate your help...
 
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/ Scaffold question #14  
What is the foundation, Field stone, Granite block, I will assume that there is a mixture with the newer constructions
 
/ Scaffold question
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Wow good guess...
That is exactly the case... I have beat my head against the wall on that one alone... there is just not a good way to solve that I would love to jack and pour a new one but... I dont have those kind of resources...

OK here are a few pic's
This is the side I will be starting on...
MVC00037.jpg

Where the new meets the old... one of our contractors left it like this but that is a whole different issues...
MVC00038.jpg

Wider view of that side...
MVC00039.jpg

The back (chimney will go as wel as reframe and make larger windows...) maybe french doors
MVC00040.jpg

MVC00041.jpg

MVC00043.jpg


Looking down the back wall...nice lean eh?
MVC00042.jpg

MVC00044.jpg


Front Side... that was a 1 car garage that I converted to my office and laundry room...
MVC00045.jpg

Front view...
The porch will be torn down and windows made about 2' shorter in length to increase the picth of the porch roof for metal rooking after it is extended to be wrapped around the left side there...
MVC00046.jpg

Close up of the fine craftsmanship
MVC00048-1.jpg


Allot of work yes...being able to do it myself on my own time and budget will be the only way...
 
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/ Scaffold question #17  
LOL I have seen it all before. I would cost you more jack and re poor, Cheaper to knock it down and build New. That didn't sound like it was on your option list.
 
/ Scaffold question
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I added some picture to the post above... let me know what you think Timber...
And for a sense of why not rebuild I am too far into it now...I have done all this by mself...So far...
New HVAC (only had old propane wall heaters before...)
added laundry room and office... (was a old garage)
new septic 500LF of finger new Dbox...etc.. (old one was like 40') But the bright side is I could justify my BH 90 hoe for the tractor...(LOVE IT)
added new 200AMP service and rewired all existing pulling nob and tibe and every other kind of wire that was added over the years
Added a new upstairs bath with jacuzzi tub and shower etc...
dont even know how many bags of cellouse in one part of the attic
and etc etc etc...
 
/ Scaffold question #19  
some people rent a scaffold on wheels, known as "rolling scaffold"
My brother is building more bedrooms on top of the house, which is embedded in the front part of his horse riding hall.
We put the scaffold on top of my hay bale trailer, to create an "offroad rolling scaffold" :D so you only have to set it up once, and just drive along the wall.

After dinner i could get you a pic, bricklaying has finished yesterday but the scaffold hasnt been dismantled yet.
 
/ Scaffold question #20  
I got my scaffolding at Scaffoldmart.com also. They give free freight with orders of $600 or more. I bought 5 sets and extra braces with 8 levelers, four steel planks and 4 casters for about $1000. Definitely worth it. I did my windows and siding with it. I took a couple of months, working weekends and before work, so renting would have cost me just as much. I'm planning to sell a couple of sets and save some for future use. I've got it tucked away in my shed, doesn't really take up much space.
Anyway, my recommendation is Scaffold mart in NC, they were great.
 
 
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