Rotary Cutter Scalping problem 72 bush hog, can i add front wheels?

[RobT]

I read this entire thread and the one thing I see missing is that no one mentioned that there are two ways to run a bush hog. One is the way all of you have mentioned - the back being set slightly higher than the front. This is the setting for coarse mowing/chopping. The other way is opposite - the front is set higher than the back. This is the setting for finer cutting/shredding and uses considerably more HP (and also produces a better cut). The lower holes on the tail wheel are used when running in the former mode (tail wheel is set higher when running the front lower) and the upper holes are for running in the latter (tail wheel is set low when running the front higher). I think you guys are trying to run your mowers low on the tail wheels and low on the front ends. It wasn't designed to work that way. I've never had a scalping problem, and I make tight turns on all kinds of terrain...

To BJCSC: When you raise the front as you describe, does this increase the chances of something being thrown out from under the cutter and up into the driver? I think I will try this technique on one of my plots, but was a little concerned by the possibility of debris being thrown at me.

Thank you,
RobT

 

[IslandTractor]

Jerry, the idea of making broader based and rounded skirt skids certainly has appeal. Parabolic mower skis...everyone will want a set!

I am still confused as to why this issue is not discussed on TBN more. I assumed I was doing something wrong when I gouged out turf but when I hear that even you and LoneCowboy can have the same problem at times I gotta assume it is a more common issue. Runwme's homegrown solution seems to work but no one else seems to use gauge wheels on rotary cutters even though we all use them on finish mowers. I was thinking about doing the same thing with wheels mounted further outboard just in front or to the side of the "plowing" edges.

I have heard, via a Woods dealer, that the reason rotary cutters are not sold with gauge wheels (a la Runwme) is that they are too vulnerable and get damaged easily. I guess I can see that if we assume the cutters are used in very rough areas (not like Runwme's pasture) or if the gauge wheels are the same style as on finish mowers.

What about roller type wheels that only touched the ground occasionally like anti scalp wheels. (See photo below) If I had the fabrication/welding skills I would probably have already welded a pair of the roller type anti scalp wheels directly in front of the offending plow edges (mower skirts) on each side. Fabricating a sturdy bracket and mounting them so the wheel was just a half inch or so lower than the mower leading edge and a few inches in front would hopefully minimize the amount of hardware to be damaged but would keep that edge from starting to plow. The anti scalp wheels are readily available and anyone with fabrication skills/equipment could pretty easily make a mount that attached to the mower corner or skirt.

Whaddaya think?

 

[have_blue]

I am still confused as to why this issue is not discussed on TBN more. I assumed I was doing something wrong when I gouged out turf but when I hear that even you and LoneCowboy can have the same problem at times I gotta assume it is a more common issue.
Whaddaya think?

I think there are a few simple rules to follow, and you won't scalp or leave skid marks unless your ground has humps and ridges.

Look at the 3 point hitch. It's perfectly designed. If the deck is adjusted correctly, it will not gouge.

Of course it will gouge if you have the deck adjusted too low or you are are taking the turns too fast. When you make sharp turns, those big low-pressure tires mush down a lot, and cause the deck to be out of level through the turn. Naturally, if your deck is set too low, the skids are more likely to gouge Watering or airing the rear rires up to max will certainly help the gouging. It can also make your tractor ride rough, and may only serve to slow your mowing down.

Sometimes, you hit a little dip, and hardly notice it. But it's enough to make your skid dig in, and you wrongly blame the mower. Filling the dip or going slower can end the problem. Maybe gage wheels could help, but I suspect you would sometimes get a wheel mark instead of a skid mark.

I think it's worth repeating that the top link should not be in tension during mowing. That's 1 of the most common mistakes I have seen. It simply ruins the action of the 3 point system.

Gouges used to drive me bonkers until I stumbled upon the formula. Now I get an occasional gouge, but I know it's my fault for trying to mow too low or turn too fast.

 

[IslandTractor]

I think it's worth repeating that the top link should not be in tension during mowing. That's 1 of the most common mistakes I have seen. It simply ruins the action of the 3 point system.

Gouges used to drive me bonkers until I stumbled upon the formula. Now I get an occasional gouge, but I know it's my fault for trying to mow too low or turn too fast.

Top link is in neutral position and the Bush Hog has a flexible toplink connector so that is essentially always in a "non tension" position.

I may be mowing too low but not lower than the Bush Hog is rated for. I cannot get a decent 3 or 4 inch cut without periodically gouging on turns. I don't drive like a NASCAR driver either as I am in low speed. Lumpy terrain may well play a part but again that is why I am interested in gauge wheels to see if there is a way to gouge proof my rotary cutter.

 

[LoneCowboy]

assumed I was doing something wrong when I gouged out turf but when I hear that even you and LoneCowboy can have the same problem at times I gotta assume it is a more common issue. ?

Just FYI, I didn't have a problem
I had it set too low, I picked up the position lever on the 3point a little bit
It was just too low, it happens.

 

[have_blue]

Top link is in neutral position and the Bush Hog has a flexible toplink connector so that is essentially always in a "non tension" position. I may be mowing too low but not lower than the Bush Hog is rated for.

How about tire pressure?

It helps to run them equal within a pound or 2, and fill them to max. Note that when you add a pound or 2 of air to 1 tire, it can throw the levelness of a 6' deck off close to an inch.

 

[IslandTractor]

How about tire pressure?.

Good question. My tires are loaded and I don't check them but I don't notice any difference. I suppose I should either check pressure or measure ground to rim distance.

 

[IslandTractor]

Just FYI, I didn't have a problem
I had it set too low, I picked up the position lever on the 3point a little bit
It was just too low, it happens.

Well, I guess this is somewhat a semantic issue. I assumed you were cutting at a low height as requested by the customer and then found that when you turned you gouged the turf. If you call that having the cutter set too low rather than the cutter causing a problem, I understand but it seems that it was cutting fine at the low height until you turned. If the cutter was able to turn without gouging it would extend your cutting height range. I appreciate that you don't need to cut low very often so it is not an issue for you. I am trying to get a pasture cut fairly low to minimize a deer tick environment so getting it low is what I am after on a regular basis. If I could figure out a system to have sturdy anti scalp wheels it would allow me to cut lower without problems.

 

[bjcsc]

To BJCSC: When you raise the front as you describe, does this increase the chances of something being thrown out from under the cutter and up into the driver? I think I will try this technique on one of my plots, but was a little concerned by the possibility of debris being thrown at me.

Thank you,
RobT

Not in my experience. The angle isn't there. If it threw something forward it would go under the tractor. A couple of things to consider: 1) I only cut low in fields that I have cut before (I know what's there, or maybe more importantly what isn't ) and 2) When I cut low, I run my front higher than the rear, but the front is still within 2" of the ground.

If I am cutting something new, or rough (brush, small trees) I cut it higher. If it has to be lower I get it there the next time.

I've never been hit with anything, and I don't run guards either.

 

[JerryG]

Sounds self-defeating to me. In effect you're causing sides of the mower to be even closer to the ground. Can't help but think that such a modification would increase the frequency of ground contact. I think all you'll end up with is a different looking series of divots.

//greg//

I'm not sure that I am getting it across to where it is understandable. The pipe would be to keep the side skirts from digging in when it does touch. It would add very little to the depth of the side skirt. Here is a cross section drawing of the way it would look.