Rotary Cutter Scalping problem 72 bush hog, can i add front wheels?

[bjcsc]

I read this entire thread and the one thing I see missing is that no one mentioned that there are two ways to run a bush hog. One is the way all of you have mentioned - the back being set slightly higher than the front. This is the setting for coarse mowing/chopping. The other way is opposite - the front is set higher than the back. This is the setting for finer cutting/shredding and uses considerably more HP (and also produces a better cut). The lower holes on the tail wheel are used when running in the former mode (tail wheel is set higher when running the front lower) and the upper holes are for running in the latter (tail wheel is set low when running the front higher). I think you guys are trying to run your mowers low on the tail wheels and low on the front ends. It wasn't designed to work that way. I've never had a scalping problem, and I make tight turns on all kinds of terrain...

 

[IslandTractor]

Measure your non-adjustable side link, pin to pin. Then adjust your adjustable link to that length, also pin to pin.

Identical measurements when I checked.

 

[IslandTractor]

I read this entire thread and the one thing I see missing is that no one mentioned that there are two ways to run a bush hog. ...

I've attached a couple of photos showing how I have my bush hog set up and also the type of gouging (not scalping as it is not the blade but rather the cutter skirt or leading edge corner that does the turf damage).

Looks to me in the first photo like I have the deck pretty level rather than either tail or nose high. This would be a typical cutting height for what I try to do when mowing an old pasture.

Second photo shows tail wheel setting. I've never changed this from what the dealer set when I bought it.

Third photo just shows the sort of knarly damage done periodically on turns. I have seen this damage on flat areas as well as on bumpy terrain but it seems a bit more common on the sloped sections (which comprise about 80% of what I mow).

 

[runwme]

I've attached a couple of photos showing how I have my bush hog set up and also the type of gouging .

That looks like you took a photo of what was happening in my lawn. One corner of my pasture nearly 40% of the turns i made created gouge, where the other 3 corners were closer to 10% but at the cutting height I wanted, I couldnt go 2 mowing laps without taking a divot somewhere.

I also run my deck level about the same height for better finished look. When running tail high, the finish cut wasnt as good, and could never try it front end high, because it would drag the back deck if lowered anymore in back.

Is there any bounce on your tractor when it gouges?

I mow at high speed and a lot of my problem was slight bounce if i hit bump while turning. Then it was gouge city. If everything is tight (not swaying) Other then raising the deck height, I just could never find an adjustment that could prevent the gouging.

When I added front wheels to my squealer and let it trail behind mower with lifting arms just floating, this effectively took bounce out of equation and kept a consistent low cutting height with no more gouging.

If you decide you want to try it, you can bolt them on and see how it works for you.

 

[IslandTractor]

That looks like you took a photo of what was happening in my lawn. .....
I also run my deck level about the same height for better finished look. When running tail high, the finish cut wasnt as good, and could never try it front end high, because it would drag the back deck if lowered anymore in back.

Is there any bounce on your tractor when it gouges?

I mow at high speed and a lot of my problem was slight bounce ....

I don't run at high speed. As I have to mow up hill and my HST has only two ranges, I am almost always mowing in low range at a few MPH. The land is generally smooth (not flat) but it is bumpy enough that without a suspension seat I'd be jello after trying to mow at higher speed. I don't think in my case the problem is "bouncing".

I forgot to mention in my last post that the photo of the gouge was actually taken in a very flat area. I also had just installed check chains (TBN recommendation) which you can see in one of the other photos. I don't think the check chains worked for me partly because I couldn't find a way of mounting them outboard of the 3PT attachment points.

 

[runwme]

Installing front wheels...

All the parts I used came from agri-supply ( they were closest and had it all in stock) the forks and wheels are same one used on the caroni 93" finish mower they sell so I figured it would work for my 72' cutter

Item number
28538 Gauge Wheel 2 qty 26.95 ea
30887 Gauge wheel fork 2 qty 24.95 ea
axle bolts and nuts 1.50 ea
2 cotter pins .10

2 each assorted spacers ( to get adjust mowing height )
30903 1/4 in 30907 1/2 30906 1 " appr 1.60 each

total parts 116.60

All above items are on page 7 of agri-supply July catalog which you can view on their website I think.

I also wanted a piece of steel to weld the steel bushings to for the fork to slide in and out. I just walked around until I found something that would work, and this ended up being a HARRELL LANDSLIDE 30878 9.95 each
This was just plate steel with 1/2 thick that was long enough to get wheel away from mowing deck. You could go to steel store and pick up 2 plates much cheaper I am sure. Mine I think was apprx 1/2 thick 13in long and 4 in tall.


I took grinder and cleaned off place on plate for welded bushings on one end of plate. Then with everything sitting on concrete pad, welded the plate to my BH. I had the wheel assembly together and lined it up. Keep in mind you want to be able to have adjustment up and down with bushings to set ride height. I could have bolted it on, but welding was quick and easy. If I want to remove wheels, I just pull the cotter pins and drop the wheel forks out.

I did mine on inboard side, because my hitch pins are outboard, and would have caused interference when lifting if I had outboard.

I tried to include pictures to help... if you need any others let me know.
I also added some heavy duty springs in place of bushings at bottom to let it ride on suspension.

 

[runwme]

Let me know if you need any other photos. I wish I had mounted my plates lower and used less spacing on the bottom and more on top. This would seem to put less stress on everything due to less mechanical advantage on wheel fork ( like choking up on baseball bat)

I am not sure if it would help as everything seems solid, but just looks like it would have been better to mount my plates lower closer to wheel. I mounted them higher in case I needed to go to a larger wheel and fork combination in future, but I dont thats going to be necessary.

 

[bjcsc]

I've attached a couple of photos showing how I have my bush hog set up and also the type of gouging (not scalping as it is not the blade but rather the cutter skirt or leading edge corner that does the turf damage).

That's what I meant. I can't figure out why it's doing that to you...Do you mow with your bucket attached? I'm wondering if maybe your tractor is leaning in the turns...?

 

[motepoc]

This is just a thought, but when you attach the wheels to the front of the BH, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the 3PH. Doesn't this put stress on the cylinders that control the 3PH? Force them (the cylinders) to move when the BH would normallly be doing your scalping. If you were pulling the BH like a rear mounted mower on a tow bar, then it could float on those front wheels.

 

[bjcsc]

This is just a thought, but when you attach the wheels to the front of the BH, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the 3PH. Doesn't this put stress on the cylinders that control the 3PH?

No, he's floating it...