Scrape Blade dies the first day on the job

HammerFour · Jul 20, 2005

( Maybe the pic's are deceptive but it doesn't look that bad to me. Any good welding shop could straighten it, re-weld it and add some gussets to make it stronger than the original.

Steve )

Yep, looks that way to me as well. It just needs a big hydraulic press applied to it for straightening and a bit of gusseting and it will be fine I think. But like you said, maybe its bent worse than those pics show. But it isn't crumpled in a ball anyhow.

em14 · Jul 20, 2005

I agree with the others who suggest the use of a press and add to that a big hammer! I think you can fix this guy without a lot of trouble by disassembling it and if you don't have a press, take it to a machine shop / welding shop. You may need to heat it a bit but you can save it.
Leo

MicroPilot · Jul 20, 2005

Hmmm....looks a lot better than the Hawkline blade I destroyed . I had to replace the whole vertical part of the blade. At least yours is still usable.

rambler · Jul 20, 2005

If it were me:

I would take the back big bolt out, replace it - asuming it is stretched. I would take the back swivel plate (bent part by the big bolt) to a machine shop with a good press & have it straightened - about $25. If you need it welded up a bit to strenthen it - $50.

You may be able to live with the bow in the main beam. If it causes your blade to not be square to the tractor & bothers, then I would also take that to the machine shop, and have it either straightened or rebuilt. It likely will have a memory for this bend, and will need to have angle or other bracing welded down each side, making it much stronger than a replacement, and for about 1/2 of what the replacement will cost. Your welding shop might build a better beam from scratch, and again it will be about 1/2 - 2/3's of replacement cost.

I farm for a living, run into this type of repars all the time, trust us on this. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Price the replacement parts, then get it done at the machine shop for a lot less & a better product.

As others have said, this is a deal of just too much force, something had to give. I would not expect this to be covered under warrenty. You had the blade in it's most vunerable position, that leading dropped edge is just a twisted mess waiting to happen, and you were going way too fast. It surely is operator error that caused this, not a manufaturing problem. And I say that as a been there, done that deal. I've wrecked a lot of iron myself - not picking on you. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Just how it is. We learn - sometimes.

That blade does not look particularly HD to me. But, be glad - you woulda wrecked your tractor, & that is more difficult to fix. bend back in shape than the blade is. I don't know I would want a heavier blade on that tractor.

Something needs to give................

--->Paul

nasdaqsam · Jul 20, 2005

Maybe just put the blade back on and hit the stump from the other side /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sorry couldn't resist.

Bob_Skurka · Jul 20, 2005

( Maybe just put the blade back on and hit the stump from the other side /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sorry couldn't resist. )

Funny, I was thinking that the best thing to do would be to ask a mother in law. They always seem to be able to tell you how to do things the RIGHT way /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif And then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out when you don't listen to them . . .

kuby · Jul 20, 2005

I broke mine as well but have rebuilt it much stronger and put in sheer-bolts as well. i bent mine after catching a frozen stump.
I am also doing the same thing as you are "crowning a driveway"

FL_Cracker · Jul 20, 2005

Yes, I was going to fast and when I hit the stump that caused me to mash harder on the HST and so on........ The two parts I think will solve the problem is the main tube going front to rear and the receiver head that hold the blade assy. Both of these items are bent and twisted.

As for the mother-in-law she thinks I hung the moon, it's the mother that knows it all.....

Will update as soon as I get prices from my dealer.

Thanks for all the info...

FL_Chump
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

hobbyfarm · Jul 21, 2005

( Funny, I was thinking that the best thing to do would be to ask a mother in law. They always seem to be able to tell you how to do things the RIGHT way And then point out when you don't listen to them, and then point out..... )

Boy, that's the truth, but mine does it biligually. I get to hear it first in Spanish, and then in English! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Oh, yeah, and they NEVER forget (even as they go senile!).

KennedyDiesel · Jul 21, 2005

That's really not much of a blade for $700. I'd tell him to take it on trade for a Woods HBL84-2 or Frontier RB 1184. They have the swivel plate "captured" at the corners to prevent this. They also have a strut arm to hold the offset position rather than relying on the front swivel plate. They also have a backbone brace...

JSUnlimited · Jul 21, 2005

You know.....ain't this one of those things that just pi**es you way off? A tax paying american just trying to make his property look and function good to suit his needs and look what happens......$700.00 down the drain in minutes!

Taylortractornut · Jul 23, 2005

FLCracker Ive repaired 3 of these type bushog brand blades that had similar things happen to them. I made a top tube foboth of them out of some1/2 inch wall 4x4 tubing. I know all three of the owners and the arent the tye to misuse an implent as they have all grown up using them. I think 700 dollars for that blade is outrageous to. Id get the povot bolt repaid with a grade8 bolt and see how bad the tube is bent then.

Keith_B · Jul 23, 2005

( FLCracker Ive repaired 3 of these type bushog brand blades that had similar things happen to them. I made a top tube foboth of them out of some1/2 inch wall 4x4 tubing. I know all three of the owners and the arent the tye to misuse an implent as they have all grown up using them. I think 700 dollars for that blade is outrageous to. Id get the povot bolt repaid with a grade8 bolt and see how bad the tube is bent then. )

Sounds like there could be some design flaws with that model of blade.

JerryG · Jul 23, 2005

The Bush Hog S50-7 is HP rated at 50 (2WD), 40 (4WD). Even the PTO hp is rated at 42 on a L5030. A higher rated blade is needed. OR beef this one up. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

FL_Cracker · Jul 29, 2005

UPDATE: My dealer owner looked at the scrape blade yesterday and said he didn't feel it should have bent like that. He is sending it back to the manufacturer to have them look it over and intends to make them repair it at no charge.

I don't have an answer from the MFG yet but I like the help I getting from the dealer.....

More info when available... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

FL_Cracker · Jul 29, 2005

UPDATE: Better news. I just found out that they will cover the scrape blade and plan to take it on trade and give me a 70 series blade. All I have to do is pay the difference. The 70 hp rated blade is much heavier and include a brace that will stop it from bending....

Great guys at my dealer.....

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

beenthere · Jul 29, 2005

If you do the exact same thing, I wouldn't be surprised that this blade doesn't do the same thing. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Hope you can avoid that, if at all possible. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Something else may bend or break instead.

FL_Cracker · Jul 29, 2005

I may be old but it's not to late for me to learn....

I will be going slower and not trying to do so much construction with it. Just more maintance.

Thanks,

Phred · Aug 1, 2005

If you are running along at 4 mph you may eventually break the blade or the tractor.
But keep it in low gear and it should be fine.

A properly sized blade and tractor will loose traction before something breaks.

I have not been able to break this one (9' rear blade ) yet, and I have put it to hard use on hard ground. Some days around here rocks appear to be the primary crop.
One time I tried to put in a culvert and found a rock at least the size of a car about 1" down. Just drags me to a halt.

Also if you have draft control this is a great use for it.

Fred

JerryG · Aug 1, 2005

A properly sized blade and tractor will loose traction before something breaks 
It is amazing how much force is generated when a tractor is stopped all at once.