Snow SECRETS TO USING A SNOW BLADE

[Nature Girl]

I'm so excited! I pleaded with my Kubota dealership to deliver my L3700SU 4wd HST in the ice storm yesterday and my wonderful salesman Kevin, did it. The newer model FEL is not in yet from Texas and my tires lack the fluid, but I wanted to play and work in the snow.

I bought a 6' blade that I drug off the back of my truck with my new tractor yippee. But it took me embarrassingly 2 1/2 hours to attempt to install the bloody thing in the dark sleeting night with a head lamp strapped to my forehead.

Woke up this morning with a refreshed view and in three moves had it on. I think that tractors are designed for burley men who huff, lift and shove things magically into place while we women look on and cheer with glee. Surely if I observed this installation once it would have been easier. Even the Everything Attachment videos are for those who have a little sense about the doo dads on the back that have names I am learning. I was asking the 3 pt hitch to do it all since I upgraded it to the supposedly easy version (my first tractor and first experience with a 3 pt set up). The pin provided by Kubota was too short and also it seems that the swing arms are alarmingly CLOSE to the back tires. I only have about an inch clearance on both sides is that right?

So hopefully it is mostly attached. I pushed some brush piles just to see what would happen and they moved I was thrilled. (Bermuda) is waiting for me under the 16 x 20 lean to we installed on the barn last week.

Love to know the top things an experienced snow mover would tell a rookie. We will soon have 8-10 here in Missouri. We have a nice blanket of sleet and the doves, cardinals, juncos, purple finch, etc. are confirming it is coming!

I do not have any weight on the front end is that a challenge?
I had to put a smaller pin in the top that is not clasped but goes all the way through the hole - will that be a problem?
Should I try to readjust the swing arms to be closer and thus give the tires more room?

The drive around my farm is blacktop and slopes down hill.

Thank you so much for your expert advise, it is great to know there is a wealth of information at the click of a mouse.

Nature Girl

 

[Birdhunter1]

Three tips
#1 it is easier to plow snow going down hill than uphill
#2 angle the blade to roll it all to one side, then turn around at the end of your driveway and come back rolling it to the other
#3 put on a fresh pot of coffee before you start so there is some that is hot when you are done

 

[the6shooter]

Yes the lynch pins are important once you install the implement on the lower links, and top link. If not all your work was in vane.

Yes the snow is comming it just left oklahoma and left 10 inches here.
david

 

[Marveltone]

Invest in a set of tire chains. They will have an unbelievable impact on your available traction and ability to push snow.

Joe

 

[Nature Girl]

Great ideas, sounds like a great plan Joe. Thanks.

 

[nybirdman]

Start out in Low range,engage the four-wheel drive,angle your blade to the max(pick up first).If you can send a picture of your hook-up.What type of tires?Hard to believe you 3pt. is that close(unless you have turf tires).Plow down hill .Good luck

 

[CHDinCT]

Can't tell from your description of how close the lower 3 point hitch arms are to the tires if you tightened them down to prevent side to side movement. You should have turnbuckles or telescoping adjustable check bars to take the sway out of your lower arms. Make sure they're tight or they could contact your tires.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Your lift arms are too close to the tires. With the blade angled it will want to push the lift arms to side. You could easily tear up a tire. Read you operators manual to find out how to adjust the lift arms. Read it throughly and it you don't under stand parts of it ask us questions. It will save you a lot of time and trouble.
Bill

 

[kebo]

Welcome to TBN!

For the time being, you can use the smaller sized pin, you just need to get the correct size pin the next time you are near a store (TSC near you?) that sells them.

As for the weight, you are fine for now with just having a blade on the back of it. However, extra weight will help provide traction (as in loading the tires with liquid ballast) should you find yourself spinning the rear tires a lot. As mentioned, chains will help improve traction as well.

Really though, once you add the FEL (loader) on it you WILL NEED extra weight in the back before you start picking up a bucket full of snow or other material (gravel/rock/dirt/etc). However, you can use a heavy attachment such as a bush hog for rear ballast in the meantime. Talk with your dealer about ballast when you get the loader installed, he can give you some good advice in that regards.

The good news though is you can use the tractor as is, and as you learn more about it and all the different ways of doing the same work, you can decide what methods and attachments will work best for you. Just be careful and wear that seatbelt!

 

[Nature Girl]

Yes, we have a TSC fairly close so I will get more pins of many lengths to have on hand. Interestingly the manual says only wear your seatbelt if the ROPS are up, thought that was strange. I also look forward to finding something in addition to the R-4 filled -4 tires to help with the loader since I know I will be doing lots of brush and log handling. I guess you can tell if it's too heavy if you start doing wheelies eh?