Seeding grass...need input

   / Seeding grass...need input #11  
Rambler, when our alfalfa fields became too infested with grass, we'd disk them an inch or two deep. Smoothed out the ground, thinned the grass, and the alfalfa came back nicer.

ron
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #12  
I put straw on my newly created lawn last year, but I did it wrong. I have a chipper/shredder with a powerful blower. Instead of renting a straw blower, I decided to use my chipper/shredder. It laid down this beautiful even mat of shredded straw --- but it was shredded so fine that it blew away after just a few days. Straw will help with erosion, but it can introduce weeds, as mentioned. If you're looking at starting a pretty serious second job/small business, consider getting a hydro-mulcher. I see used ones on eBay pretty regularly. Laying down seed, fertilizer, and mulch in one blow sure looks appealing to me. I have seen some gorgeous lawns that were started from hydro-mulch and it looks OK when applied, too (better than blown straw).
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #13  
I have to disagree with the folks that say not to bury the grass seed and that it needs light to germinate. For maximum germination the seed should be covered with 1/4" to 3/4" with soil. An overseeder is the very best way to achieve this but is quite cost prohibitive. I would suggest spreading the seed over soil that has been well loosened then rolled. The area should then be raked lightly with a york rake (should have guage wheels) at a very shallow depth to cover the seed. It takes practice. You will move seed around, but this is for larger areas, not spot treatment, so if you do it right, it will have even coverage. By burying the seed like this you accomplish the foolowing:
1: It will be much easier to keep the seed moist and not be dried out by the day sun. A huge benefit in large areas that are not easily irrigated.

2: The seed will not suffer as much from exposure to to rain erosion, wind erosion, and birds eating the seed.

3: The rate of survival will be much higher as the grass will have deeper and stroger rooting when it does become exposed to the sun, wind, and rain.

Like I said, an overseeder is best. No other method will provide a higher rate of germination or suvival. Any good landscaper that installs quality lawns will tell you the same thing. In the absence of an overseeder, then use the method I described, or you may also install a light layer of staw. The problem with the straw is that it is easily displaced by wind, and if not installed carefully, it can suffocate and rot areas of grass after it germinates if too thick.
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #14  
I put out 100 lb. of seed yesterday with a overseeder, I rented it from Home Depot for $44 for 4 hours. That thing worked me to death. It's supposed to rain and snow for the next several days so maybe?
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #15  
How many pounds of grass seed per acre do you use?
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #18  
If you have a worked up seed bed, the Brillion is the only way to travel, as stated by Farmingwithjunk. If you are overseeding the Gill overseeder (now Woods) works well. Seed depth should be approximately 1/2", this is important. The depth is much easier to control with a drill, but in a small area it is cost prohibitive.

Ron
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #19  
150-400 lbs. depending on size of seed

pure bluegrass is small so seed count per pound is high hence less per acre, the real cheap mixes contain annual rye as much as 60%, that seed is large and weighs alot so you need more lbs to cover area.
 
   / Seeding grass...need input #20  
WOW, I'm glad I seed alfalfa, pasture, & hay ground where one uses 8-14 lbs of these small, expensive seeds. Couldn't imagine 50-400 lbs of seed per acre!!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul
 

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