Seized rusted engine

[sandman2234]

As mentioned, the piston and liners will probably need to come out together if you can't get them to turn over after soaking with Kroil, PB Blaster or whatever choice. Soaking takes time, bumping it over is best using the ring gear but don't break a tooth off.
Allis B, C and CA engines were bad about getting water down the exhaust pipe when left outside. Doesn't take much water to ruin and engine. I have a dozen or so out back with motors in the same shape.
David from jax

 

[dougtrr2]

I had bought a 47 Farmall H once that was in similar shape. The 50/50 mix was poured directly on top of each piston about an inch deep or so and covered up with a tarp over the motor.
Whenever I walked by I'd make sure there was a little bit standing in each cylinder. And I left an old prybar leaning against the tractor that I'd try to nudge the ring gear teeth with one way or the other.
Seems like it took about three weeks of this scientific approach and I got a surprise on day when it moved!
Motor ended up being too far gone vs replacing it with another I had ran across.

PB Blaster and SeaFoam are the two favorite penetrating oils here.

This is the same method used by my uncle on an old John Deere. Time is one aspect of the process that seems to be forgotten. Give the stuff time to work, it didn't rust together in one hour, why should it get derusted in less time.

Doug in SW IA

 

[09112]

Still working on that rust. I have a bottle jack under one rod and hoping that will work. Using Blaster at the moment and am giving it a few raps daily with a wooden block. Hey guys for an 82 year old I can't waste too much time on this one. I still have a C model that I have to pick up and that will be in much better shape. Hopefully I'll get it running without too much pain.

Paul in Eastern OK.

 

[AWSubie]

You also might try letting the solvent do its thing then let it evaporate and then apply heat, let it cool down and then re-soak with whatever solvent. Sometimes the expansion and contraction from a heat cycle helps.

 

[09112]

Wow, I'm getting a boatload of good advise on this site. I just might get that thing running yet.

 

[GLyford]

Put the wide front from the B on the C and call it good...?

 

[mapper]

Here I am!
The first of the WD-40 haters.
I suggest that the WD-40 be poured in a glass, and mixed with some very poor quality rum (don't drink it ....just throw it

Come come now, it does have some good stuff it can be used for. A fisherman friend up in Alaska used to get it in large quantities for prepping halibut bait, said it worked amazingly well. Another use is for cleaning old vinyl flooring before cementing down a new layer of flooring.:laughing:

 

[TimberHole]

WD-40 is the greatest hand cleaner. Even if it doesn't break loose your seized Pistons at least you'll be able to wash the grease off your hands!

 

[09112]

That would be a new thought.

 

[KYErik]

WD-40 is the greatest hand cleaner. Even if it doesn't break loose your seized Pistons at least you'll be able to wash the grease off your hands!

I completely agree. It works really well.

 

[Btown]

If I remember correctly someone here said the best rust penetrating mixture is acetone and transmission fluid mixture. They say it works the best. The two will separate so you have to mix right before use.

 

[TractorGuy]

I am an avid WD-40 user. It has always worked well for me as a penetrating solution as well as other stuff. It does evaporate over time so it isn't a long term rust preventative.

It is also a great product for removing glue and labels.

I HAVE used other products like PB Blaster and it is good also. I just don't see it as better than WD-40.

On another note I have a seized 8N that WD-40 hasn't got loose. Like the OP I have more time than money so I am letting it sit soaking a while. I may try mixing some ATF and diesel or something to try in it. It was supposedly running but had a burnt valve some years ago when it was parked. I have confirmed the burnt valve. Problem is they let water get in the cylinders and rust. WD-40 hasn't gone past the rings into the pan so it may be too far gone.

 

[Rara Avis]

Okay Guys, I'm new at this so navigating this site presents a challenge. If I can't thank you after your helpful remarks, please accept my gratitude before hand.

Now the problem: I am trying to restore a 1948 Allis, B model. The head has been off for years and the tractor has been exposed to Oklahoma weather during this time. Mud daubers, rain, vines that have stickers, leaves, snow, the whole ball of wax. Needless to say the pistons and sleeves are rusted. It has had no oil pan attached during that time and I see that one of the bottom bearings has been removed and the crank is rusted, at least in that one position. Does anyone have a suggestion to free the pistons/crank? Would it be possible that the crank is rusted under all the bearings as well? My problem is I have a bunch of passion for this job but I lack experience since the 40s and 50s when I was a kid messing with old cars. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Yesterday's Tractors - Talk of the Town: Miracle Formula for a Stuck Engine

 

[09112]

I've had several penetrates in the piston holes since April this year. I have just managed, within the last two weeks, to move the front pulley about 1/3 turn. Will attempt to remove one piston today and see if that eases the resistance enough to get the other three moving with the starter.

 

[mrblanche]

Sounds like it is in terrible shape.

Probably the best way to break the pistons loose is to clean out the bores the best you can and pour in some penetrating solution, like WD40.

Not WD40. That is a Water Displacer, but not a true lubricant. And it evaporates. You need a penetrating oil, like Kroil or some such thing, or make your own with 50/50 transmission fluid and acetone.

 

[Spanner]

I read on another thread where he's got one piston out but cracked the block.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d-bearing-numbers.html?highlight=#post4873125

 

[jaxs]

I've had several penetrates in the piston holes since April this year. I have just managed, within the last two weeks, to move the front pulley about 1/3 turn. Will attempt to remove one piston today and see if that eases the resistance enough to get the other three moving with the starter.

Good to hear there's progress. Even if you are able to remove one or more pistons,don't use starter until after you have rotated the engine a few complete revolotions with pry bar or hand crank. Ingaging starter before engine rotate's freely will only burn out windings in starter or damage teeth on flywheel. My hat's off to you for taking this on.