Stimw
Elite Member
Bottled/canned beer is pasteurized, it won't make any difference. BUT Draft Beer normally is not pasteurized meaning the yeasties are still active! That might be why draft beer tastes so much better????
Septic Tank Chemistry
- Thread starter Piperflyer
- Start date
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schoolsout
Veteran Member
Interesting point...I'd imagine most/all domestic beers are this way, but are bottled micro brew stuff pasteurized?
cougar21300
Member
It is fairly easy to check if your tank is getting near its undigestibles capacity if you understand what is going on inside. As has already been well pointed out there are three basic layers; the sediments that settle to the bottom, the "living" liquid effluent in the center where all the good organic things happen, and the floating scum layer on top.
The settled solids will gradually build up over time, but they really don't usually cause any problem for a long, long time. They're settled and tend to stay put and not migrate into the field.
The scum layer (fats, soaps, and anything else the bacteria in the effluent can't digest) does tend to build up over time. Eventually it will build down into the tank far enough to flow under the baffles and into the field. The bottom of the baffles has to extend down at least 40% of the distance between the outbound invert (bottom of the exit pipe) and the floor of the tank. Since the outlet pipe is down a foot or so from the very top of the tank you will need to know how either far from the diagragm you kept (right???), or more likely by probing for the pipe and getting a close guesstamate. Note this measurement.
Finding the bottom of the scum layer is easy. First make yourself probe by taking an eight+ foot piece of strapping and cut off about a 8" piece and nail it to one end like a T. Gently push the T down through the scum layer and continue on until you feel the muck at the bottom. If that isn't too solid you should be able to push down through that too until you feel the concrete floor. Note this measurement too, for the difference between it and the one you noted before (the outlet invert) is the working depth of your tank. You are trying to be sure that the bottom of the scum layer doesn't extend beyond 40% of this total distance. Also note how much muck you pushed through if you can for that is your settled sediments. Now begin to pull the T slowly back out and once it is again in the liquid area, rotate it 90 degrees. Continue to draw it up until you feel resistance, that is the bottom of your scum layer. As long as you aren't approaching 40% of the distance from the outlet invert and the bottom of the tank, you're safe. Personally, once the scum layer approaches 25% or so, I'd be thinking about getting it pumped. Maintenance is always easier than repair. Oh, and another point, you want some disposable rubber gloves and the wind at your back when you do this...
The settled solids will gradually build up over time, but they really don't usually cause any problem for a long, long time. They're settled and tend to stay put and not migrate into the field.
The scum layer (fats, soaps, and anything else the bacteria in the effluent can't digest) does tend to build up over time. Eventually it will build down into the tank far enough to flow under the baffles and into the field. The bottom of the baffles has to extend down at least 40% of the distance between the outbound invert (bottom of the exit pipe) and the floor of the tank. Since the outlet pipe is down a foot or so from the very top of the tank you will need to know how either far from the diagragm you kept (right???), or more likely by probing for the pipe and getting a close guesstamate. Note this measurement.
Finding the bottom of the scum layer is easy. First make yourself probe by taking an eight+ foot piece of strapping and cut off about a 8" piece and nail it to one end like a T. Gently push the T down through the scum layer and continue on until you feel the muck at the bottom. If that isn't too solid you should be able to push down through that too until you feel the concrete floor. Note this measurement too, for the difference between it and the one you noted before (the outlet invert) is the working depth of your tank. You are trying to be sure that the bottom of the scum layer doesn't extend beyond 40% of this total distance. Also note how much muck you pushed through if you can for that is your settled sediments. Now begin to pull the T slowly back out and once it is again in the liquid area, rotate it 90 degrees. Continue to draw it up until you feel resistance, that is the bottom of your scum layer. As long as you aren't approaching 40% of the distance from the outlet invert and the bottom of the tank, you're safe. Personally, once the scum layer approaches 25% or so, I'd be thinking about getting it pumped. Maintenance is always easier than repair. Oh, and another point, you want some disposable rubber gloves and the wind at your back when you do this...
Artisan
Veteran Member
Thats beautiful cougar...I love this, Great description.
I steer clear of septics, and I will continue to but I love to learn about anything plumbing.
Does anyone have any tried and true methods to find the tank / access hole if there is no record? Any rules of thumb? I guess you could look for extra green grass and "maybe" know where the leechfield is.
It will probably be straight in line w/ the dwellings sewer, maybe the building dept has an as built, if a permit was pulled...after that I am guessing...
I steer clear of septics, and I will continue to but I love to learn about anything plumbing.
Does anyone have any tried and true methods to find the tank / access hole if there is no record? Any rules of thumb? I guess you could look for extra green grass and "maybe" know where the leechfield is.
It will probably be straight in line w/ the dwellings sewer, maybe the building dept has an as built, if a permit was pulled...after that I am guessing...
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
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- 9,839
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- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
I just installed a top with a manhole cover on mine so, I can inspect from time to time. It also allows me to dump my rv at home with out digging the top up... 4 screws & the top is off
dixstir
Silver Member
we put are 500 gal tank in 38 years ago ,there are only me and the wife,but we have it pumped every 4 years ,its always about 1/2 to 3/4 solids ,last week had it pumped 100 bucks and no worrys.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
someone mentioned pumping every 3ys.. i'd call that regular, and if it actually neede dit every 3ys.. excessive, and there was a problem present.
They won't go 'forever' due to non digestable solids like silica getting in.. but a GOOD system can go for decades... seen it too much to not believe it.
again.. takes GOOD habits to get GOOD results.
soundguy
Kays Supply
Veteran Member
I am living with an aerobic system. I can't say enough good about it. The discharge is clear as tap water. Absolutely no smell. It has functioned 11 years perfectly. It is so small and the way it is shaped I can't imagine it having any solids in it. It probably costs a few bucks to run but it is well worth it. Also, in Illinois there is no allowance for grey water . It is all sewage.
Larry Caldwell
Elite Member
How often you pump a septic depends on how big it is and how it is being used. A large family puts more demands on a tank. Most modern tanks are 1000 or 1500 gallon, but some of the old ones were 500 or even 250 gallon. Five people on a 250 gallon tank will fill it pretty quickly.
The problem with water is overwhelming the baffles. The solids need to settle out to give them time to digest. A big inrush of water stirs things up, and suspended solids can get pushed into the drain field where they will plug the whole system. For the same reason, a 1000 gallon tank half full of solids is actually just a 500 gallon tank. The fuller it gets, the more likely you are to create problems, particularly if you push a lot of water through the tank.
You don't know if a problem is beginning, but a properly installed and maintained septic system will last many decades.
