Shear Pin Shocker
- Thread starter Arkie
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JerryG
Super Member
John,
You could if you drilled the yoke where the threaded part of the pin exit’s. The pin in necked down at the thread end.
I think that I paid around $6.?? each.
You could if you drilled the yoke where the threaded part of the pin exit’s. The pin in necked down at the thread end.
I think that I paid around $6.?? each.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
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- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
Jerry,
What size/category is the PTO drive shaft...? 2 or 3...
and what brand? {I also assuming a smooth/non-splined yoke at the gearbox end...}
What size/category is the PTO drive shaft...? 2 or 3...
and what brand? {I also assuming a smooth/non-splined yoke at the gearbox end...}
JerryG
Super Member
John,
I don’t know what category the PTO shaft is. I do know that it is pretty light. My Bush hog manual doesn’t tell the cat. either. I did check the size of the pin. It a 3/8” reduced to a 5/16” nut.
""I also assuming a smooth/non-splined yoke at the gearbox end""
That is right.
I don’t know what category the PTO shaft is. I do know that it is pretty light. My Bush hog manual doesn’t tell the cat. either. I did check the size of the pin. It a 3/8” reduced to a 5/16” nut.
""I also assuming a smooth/non-splined yoke at the gearbox end""
That is right.
JeffRey30747
Gold Member
My idea would be to get a grade 2 bolt the size of the threads on the proper pin and make a bushing out of metal or polymer to take the slop out of the assembly. You could reuse the bushing and just keep the bolts on hand.
Now there's an idea, i'll start looking for something to act as a sleeve or bushing for a bolt. My dealer is only 5 miles down the road and they have been pretty good to me. They gave me a good discount for being "a good customer". I did fail to mention that the PHD came WITHOUT a shear pin. I didn't say anything about it since they gave me the discount.
kemartin3
Bronze Member
I wish I had found this thread before buying a 2101. The PHD works great, but that shear pin thing is a pain. I "guess" I got a deal on my extra pins: only $5.50 each. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif But the thing drove me nuts is that after you drive the pin into the yoke, there isn't enough of it sticking out to grab with pliers so you can tighten the nut on the other end. Maybe there's a reason mine came from the dealer with a 5/16 grade 5 bolt in it. The shear pin was in the plastic bag of "extras." Of the other souls who have experienced this wonderful design, have you ever come up with a good fix? I'm wondering if the answer is to just use a 5/16 grade 2 bolt. The idea of adding a bushing on the side of the yoke with the 3/8 hole sounds great in theory; but in the greasy, dirty, "drop things in the weeds trying to work on it in the field" world of tractors....
Kevin
Kevin
Henro
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Man...I'm glad I bought a Rhino PHD...uses standard grade 2 bolts as shear pins. I got the slip clutch anyway.
Grade two bolts go for $1.19 per lb at Tractor Supply...$8 or $6 per shear pin makes me want to throw up...being subtle and all... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Grade two bolts go for $1.19 per lb at Tractor Supply...$8 or $6 per shear pin makes me want to throw up...being subtle and all... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif