Shed Roof Pitch??

[dieselscout80]

Here is a pic of the old roof and it shows the height we want the new roof installed at.

The current posts are about 7.5' from the building and we want to add 12' beyond that for horse stalls. There is 8 being added on to the left side to make the current long wall 24' long.

 

[Billrog]

Another option in order to get head room that distance out ending up with very little slope you could use torch on roofing where the transition levels out just be sure to extend it at least 3' up under the shingles on the building roof.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Here in NH? 45 degrees or better. You can get away with a 30 degree pitch if you have a metal roof and it's warm enough inside to melt the bottom layer so it slides off. A lot depends on how wet and heavy the snow is. Early this season, it was about as wet as it gets and 6 inches weighed a ton. This last set of storms was fine powered and 18 inches weighed less than the 6 from the beginning of the season.

I'd say the same for the Pacific Coast range in Oregon and points north of there because the snow is usually very wet and very heavy.

 

[dave1949]

Here is a pic of the old roof and it shows the height we want the new installed at.

The current posts are about 7.5' from the building and we want to add 12' beyond that for horse stalls. There is 8 being added on to the left side to make the current long wall 24' long.

Another option would be to TEE off perpendicular from the side of that building with a ridge board that matches the height of existing shed. Or, go higher than the existing peak to gain enough room for a gable-end vent. It would mean removing the low shed roof that is there now. Where the length of the addition 24' extends beyond the back wall, you could have a section of hip roof over an extension that wraps around the existing wall.

Trying to save that small shed roof may be more trouble that it's worth. It is putting a lot of limitations on the result: pitch and headroom. You could also add on by building out toward the propane tank and leave the current shed roof in place.

It's hard to tell from a pic, but are you going to have horse run-off/drainage from the stalls into the pond? That would be bad I think.

 

[dieselscout80]

Another option would be to TEE off perpendicular from the side of that building with a ridge board that matches the height of existing shed. Or, go higher than the existing peak to gain enough room for a gable-end vent. It would mean removing the low shed roof that is there now. Where the length of the addition 24' extends beyond the back wall, you could have a section of hip roof over an extension that wraps around the existing wall.

Trying to save that small shed roof may be more trouble that it's worth. It is putting a lot of limitations on the result: pitch and headroom. You could also add on by building out toward the propane tank and leave the current shed roof in place.

It's hard to tell from a pic, but are you going to have horse run-off/drainage from the stalls into the pond? That would be bad I think.

We aren't going to save the old roof we'll build a new roof.

The horses won't be in the barn much cause I'm to lazy to muck.

 

[dwilliams35]

We'll generally bottom out at 1" in 12": snow load is an absolute non-issue here, but that's pretty common.

 

[dieselscout80]

We'll generally bottom out at 1" in 12": snow load is an absolute non-issue here, but that's pretty common.

Where are you located at?

 

[dieselscout80]

 

[jfh28]

the minimum roof pitch all depends on the type of finish roofing you will use........fiberglass shingles standard minimum pitch is 4/12 but you can go down to 2/12 if you use double layers of overlapping underlayment........still even though the code says you can do that I don't recommend it......for metal roofing it will depend on the manufacturer of the metal roof and what style you choose........some can go as low as 1/4 per foot but again I'm not crazy about something that shallow with metal roofing........just because it says you can do something doesn't mean you should.......mechanically applied field seams with sealant usually allow the least amount of pitch but you'll need a special seaming tool.......suggest you stop in at some roofing suppliers in your area and find out the specs on what they stock.....also keep in mind that if you do go the metal roof route that you have to use underlayment specifically designed for the higher temps of a metal roof.......standard roofing underlayment will break down.......Jack

 

[dieselscout80]

The roof is 2/12 pitch the shingles are rated for that with the underpayment with a 12" overlap. I went with more than 12" of overlap and I'm going to reduce the single exposure from 5.5" to 4" per the advice of local roofers.

With these per cautions and considering that the other roof was 1.5/12 pitch with the same type shingles I think it will be fine.