shingles on a polebarn

Bellville · Nov 22, 2004

( ( I'd consider selling a kidney before putting asphault shingles up there if it were mine......

Hope you can catch my drift, I have a habit of being kind of subtle sometimes.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

--->Paul )

Thanks Paul, best laugh I have had all day, and I think he got your meaning... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

rambler · Nov 22, 2004

[quote
Thanks Paul, best laugh I have had all day, and I think he got your meaning... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

=========
When I was in high school, I had the job of peeling the asphault shingles off out big old farm barn - 30' high on the one side, 80' long, 40' wide, fairly steep roof. I got a ladder to hang on to, with a rope over the top and tied to a tractor on the ground on the other side. Wind took the shingles off that big barn roof, not all that old on the reshingle job. The barn was built in 1912 or so, no bolts, all wood beams & wood pegs, joints chiseled out into the old-time hooks.

Anyhow, was wood shingles were on for maybe 45 years, then the asphault were put on for maybe 15 years, and then we put tin on about 25 years ago. Still haven't needed to paint it, no rust showing at all yet - so it should have another 25+ years to go with a painting or 2.

You can do the math, & see which set of roof cover was the weak link.....

I had no fingerprints for a year after taking all those shingles off (can't drop nails on the feeding platform, kills livestock...) and I spent a good many days up there peeling a shingles off.

I vowed never again. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

JJT · Nov 22, 2004

Buckcreek, 1 other thing to keep in mind, is installation time. The time it takes to deck and shingle the building will be at least 3X what it takes to use purlins and install steel roofing. If it was me, I'd go with the steel. JT

LBrown59 · Nov 23, 2004

( I'm building a 30X48 Pole Barn. I used trusses 2' on center w/ 7/16" OSB w/ very heavy shingles. I completed the roof in late April/early May. I have seen no signs of any sagging. BTW, most of the OSB was up last year with tar paper so it has seen a little bit of snow, though we didn't get much last year. I did use the clips as someone else has recommended. I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls w/ vinyl siding. I also used clips between the horizontal purlins.

I would've like to have gone heavier grade of plywood up on the roof, but I had budgeted about 8 per sheet for the heavier stuff. By the time I went and bought the 7/16" was up to about $16 a sheet if I caught it at a good time other times it was $19. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Here is link to my project. Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully

I've also attached a picture of the roof after I started putting some of the OSB on the sidewalls. )

I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls. I also used clips between the horizontal purlins.
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I ran the OSB horizontally on the sides so that the 8 foot sides of the sheets always fell on the purlins. This way the clips were not needed.
If you run the sheets vertically you get cracks every 4 feet apart between each sheet from floor to ceiling.

LBrown59 · Nov 23, 2004

( Buckcreek,

I was advised another good reason to do shingles instead of metal is the metal sweats alot and drips inside if you don't insulate it. You may be ending up with a better building.

John )Cover with plastic before installing the metal roof.

LBrown59 · Nov 23, 2004

( I'm building a 30X48 Pole Barn. I used trusses 2' on center w/ 7/16" OSB w/ very heavy shingles. I completed the roof in late April/early May. I have seen no signs of any sagging. BTW, most of the OSB was up last year with tar paper so it has seen a little bit of snow, though we didn't get much last year. I did use the clips as someone else has recommended. I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls w/ vinyl siding. I also used clips between the horizontal purlins.

I would've like to have gone heavier grade of plywood up on the roof, but I had budgeted about 8 per sheet for the heavier stuff. By the time I went and bought the 7/16" was up to about $16 a sheet if I caught it at a good time other times it was $19. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Here is link to my project. Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully

I've also attached a picture of the roof after I started putting some of the OSB on the sidewalls. )

I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls w/ vinyl siding.
jwstewar
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How did you handle the problem with the nails that attach the vinyl siding going clear through the OSB and sticking out into the room?

LBrown59 · Nov 23, 2004

( Buckcreek, 1 other thing to keep in mind, is installation time. The time it takes to deck and shingle the building will be at least 3X what it takes to use purlins and install steel roofing. If it was me, I'd go with the steel. JT )

Here is where you can save big .A metal roof only requires half as many trusses as a shingled one.

LBrown59 · Nov 23, 2004

I have 2 pole buildings
One is 30x52 Shingled roof and vinal sding.
Other is 22x76 Metal roof & metal siding.

jwstewar · Nov 23, 2004

( How did you handle the problem with the nails that attach the vinyl siding going clear through the OSB and sticking out into the room?
)

I haven't done the siding yet. I've just got the building wrapped with Tyvek. $ have gotten pretty short here as of late. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif The nails that stick through so far from nailing the OSB to the purlins, I've taken the approach of if it is down low enough to where the kids could run into them the wife and I went around with a hammer and bent them over (down). Would make removing the OSB rather difficult, but feel it was worth it. Up higher than say 3 or 4' I didn't worry about it unless I need to lean something up against that section. Long term solution is to come back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 sticks walls, insulate, and drywall. But that is down the road once I get the siding and floor finished and replenish the wallet a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

LBrown59 · Nov 23, 2004

( ( How did you handle the problem with the nails that attach the vinyl siding going clear through the OSB and sticking out into the room?
)

I haven't done the siding yet. I've just got the building wrapped with Tyvek. $ have gotten pretty short here as of late. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif The nails that stick through so far from nailing the OSB to the purlins, I've taken the approach of if it is down low enough to where the kids could run into them the wife and I went around with a hammer and bent them over (down). Would make removing the OSB rather difficult, but feel it was worth it. Up higher than say 3 or 4' I didn't worry about it unless I need to lean something up against that section. Long term solution is to come back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 sticks walls, insulate, and drywall. But that is down the road once I get the siding and floor finished and replenish the wallet a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif )

*******1*The nails that stick through so far from nailing the OSB to the purloins
2*I've taken the approach of if it is down low enough to where the kids could run into them the wife and I went around with a hammer and bent them over (down). Would make removing the OSB rather difficult, but feel it was worth it.
3*Up higher than say 3 or 4' I didn't worry about it unless I need to lean something up against that section.
4* Long term solution is to come back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 sticks walls, insulate, and drywall.
jwstewar
==================
1*You made the same mistake I did in fastening the OSB to the purloins.
If I had it to do over again I would have used shorter nails that would not go clear through the OSB and the purloins
2*I haven't done anything with these yet on my building but you can get a neat little cut off grinding wheel for an electric drill that is the best thing for cutting them off flush with the surface. Bending them over is one way But I would not do that on the ones going through only the SOB that attaches the vinyl siding. Clinching these nails might enlarge or misshape the nail holes and cause the siding to misalign and or become wavy.OSB is a lot softer and thinner than the 2x4 purloins
3*They are still a problem it you intend to run any wiring along or through the walls.
4*I can't see Building stick type studded walls.
A-* You have already paid for the poll building style framed walls.
B*Now you're talking about paying again for stick built framed walls.
Why pay for the same walls twice??????
If you are going to pay for stick built framed walls why not do that in the first place and forget the post and purloins and save your time effort and money????

Even If you go back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 stick walls the nails will still be the same problem they are now because the nails are 1.5 Inches behind the treated post. If you put in vertical 2x4 or 2x6 studs the OSB will still be that 1.5" behind them.

I would not use drywall I just don't care for it.
As far as I'm concerned wafer board is good enough for the interior of a pole building.

The problem with vinyl siding is it's not designed for pole buildings. It's designed to work with vertical studs not horizontal purloins.

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