Shop Air System Install

[Kubota Tee]

On my project list this fall/winter is a compressed air system installation for my shop. I'm starting to do the planning and research for this effort and thought I'd reach out to get some input on materials and design. It appears that the traditional approach has been either copper or black pipe. In doing some research, I've found some alternatives which include aluminum and aluminum lined plastic tubing. Here are some pics I've found on the internet:














So ..... What have you done in your shop with compressed air? Would love to get any/all advice on this project and of course, pics are always welcomed / desired.

Thanks,

Thomas

 

[bubbacuse77]

I use blue label copper for two reasons. First I can cut it and sweat it fast vs trying to get a pipe threading machine for black pipe. Second copper won't rust from condensate in the pipe. Copper can be more expensive but if you do it yourself you can save a bunch of cash. I don't have experience with the setup you listed but if it is made for running compressed air then you are safe. Just don't take the easy way and use PVC. PVC as it fails will burst like a grenade and send shards flying vs metal will just tear open. One other thing I see guys doing that I also did was use a hydraulic hose between the air compressor and my hard lines to have a less ridged connection.

 

[BethelHntr]

I used black iron pipe, At the time I had access to a threading machine and got a good deal on the pipe. It's been installed since the early 90's and have had zero problems. I'll try and post pics later today.

 

[k0ua]

On my project list this fall/winter is a compressed air system installation for my shop. I'm starting to do the planning and research for this effort and thought I'd reach out to get some input on materials and design. It appears that the traditional approach has been either copper or black pipe. In doing some research, I've found some alternatives which include aluminum and aluminum lined plastic tubing. Here are some pics I've found on the internet:



View attachment 341272





View attachment 341273




So ..... What have you done in your shop with compressed air? Would love to get any/all advice on this project and of course, pics are always welcomed / desired.

Thanks,

Thomas

From everything I have read, your idea is the modern preferred method. It is safe and easy to do. I am still dragging hoses around, but maybe someday will go the route you are proposing.

James K0UA

 

[Kubota Tee]

I use blue label copper for two reasons. First I can cut it and sweat it fast vs trying to get a pipe threading machine for black pipe. Second copper won't rust from condensate in the pipe. Copper can be more expensive but if you do it yourself you can save a bunch of cash. I don't have experience with the setup you listed but if it is made for running compressed air then you are safe. Just don't take the easy way and use PVC. PVC as it fails will burst like a grenade and send shards flying vs metal will just tear open. One other thing I see guys doing that I also did was use a hydraulic hose between the air compressor and my hard lines to have a less ridged connection.

Bubba, Thanks for your feedback and sharing your experience. I'm definitely not going to use PVC. The straight aluminum pipe was featured on Jay Leno's garage and the aluminum lined pipe is something I found on the internet by RAPIDAIR. Both systems feature quick attach couplers that avoids soldering or threading pipe. The aluminum lined pipe is quite a bit less expensive. Both are designed and sold specifically for air systems. Thomas

 

[Kubota Tee]

I used black iron pipe, At the time I had access to a threading machine and got a good deal on the pipe. It's been installed since the early 90's and have had zero problems. I'll try and post pics later today.

Larry,

Having the right equipment is always something that I'm challenged with which is why some of these newer systems look kinda nice to me. I'd love to see your pics as well as how you attached your compressor to the system and what you're doing for filtering and/or oil.

Thanks,

Thomas

 

[Kubota Tee]

From everything I have read, your idea is the modern preferred method. It is safe and easy to do. I am still dragging hoses around, but maybe someday will go the route you are proposing. James K0UA

James,

I'll be sure to post pics along the way as well as which system I end up going with and how it installs and performs.

Stay tuned ....

Thomas

 

[kg7il]

Create some low point drains. Feed your connector from a tee, and extend a leg downward to a valve. A cheaper way is to use a reducer to a larger pipe and cap it. The larger pipe will hold more water longer, and can be drained when you bring your system down.

 

[nc redneck]

I did my commercial body shop back in the early 80s with 1 inch copper. Sold business in the late 90s. But there has been 0 failures for about 30 years. They run 4 body techs and 2 painters. Paint booth and prep deck. Dual 10 HP compressor set a 175 PSI. Copper is by far better than black pipe if clean air is must.

 

[BethelHntr]

It's kind of hard taking photo's of air lines in a area so filled with other stuff but I did get a few.

This is where the pipe leaves the compressor and moves up the wall into the truss area, There is no filtration.



This is a line that goes above two garage bay's, I use plastic coil line for drops at head height and can connect a short wip line for impact guns or what ever is needed.





This main line goes down through the outside wall and has an outlet outside between the two garage doors for filling tires or what have you.

The more outlets the better IMO and you might want a drain at the end of your line to get rid of water.

 

[SPIKER]

The one line (Blue) is PEX-AL-PEX used for in floor heating systems 300 PSI rating at 175F I think. can be had at many places in plumbing departments or Heating contractors. I have seen Copper and Black Iron as common solutions old school and work well. Copper prices are nuts but as said easy to work with when you do them though be sure to run your outlet UP a few inches then back over and down to keep anything that gets in the main line from falling down into air hose and or tool. Be sure to use flexible connection from compressor to wall and into main regulator with drip leg after a shutoff valve on compressor Ball valve works best to have quick shutoff. I have 2nd ball valve on main drip leg to drain out water. One day that will be run out of shop so I can purge air /water outside.

Mark

 

[ericher69]

Installed 6.5hp 60 gallon compressor with a 5/8 ID rubber/PVC air hose as supply. The supply hose is connected to a 3 port femal fitting on the compressor. 2 are spare for portable air hoses.

Goes to a pipe style desiccant dryer with ball valve on the bottom then to an air filter then to a dual 50ft air reel.

This setup has worked well for my needs. Cabinet sandblaster, spark plug cleaner and a few other stationary air tools are not connected.

When needed I just plug in one of the 2 hoses from the air reels.

Will post a few pics tomorrow.

 

[cmyoung2]

I used 1" black iron pipe, full length of the shop with connects every 10" on risers. My supply line is on a sill. about 10" off the floor, every 10' there is T with a up pipe to get the connection point about 4' off the floor(so I can find it Line has drains @ the low points, compressor is hooked to the supply line with a hydraulic hose, compressor is outside to reduce noise. Have one hose reel hooked up near the grease pit, but that hose can reach most of the shop and outside the main door. Main reason the risers are 10' apart is that was the standard length of the threaded pipe at out local store. I don't have pipe threading equipment, so I just bought what was available and mad it work. As mentioned, stay away from PVC, and I really don't like a plain rubber type air hose for the supply line leading from the compressor. Rubber sometimes can't handle the oil and heat. One of those--- don't ask me how I know--- That's why I spent the money and used hydraulic hose for that connection. Shop wide air availability is nice, spend the time to get it right.

 

[grsthegreat]

I piped my shop with the heavy duty (blue) copper about 10 years ago. Glad i did it when i did, cause i sure couldnt afford to do it nowdays. That alum pipe looks like the new ticket.

I also used a 1" hyd flex line between compressor and the dryer. Didnt want vibration to enter the lines.

I use a cheap harbor freight $400.00 refrigerated air dryer on my system, and LOVE it. Have had it over 6 years now, and its 99.999% eliminates water in the air output. I have a paper filter system downline from the refrigerated unit, and i check this filter every few months. Its 6 years old, and not a lick of moisture.

I also have 2 separate 50' auto retract air line mechanisms, one at each end of the shop. I use those all the times for misc air tool use in addition to the ports i installed.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Copper is the way to go. For a 150# system use type M as it is cheaper. On those drops for the outlets either loop out of the top of the main or use solid pipe down to a drain trap. I always put a valve and pressure regulator at each outlet and operate the main at max compressor pressure. You will get water in your air otherwise. Always grade the pipe away from the supply point and put a drain drop on the end of line. If you will be using more than one outlet at a time recommend you loop the system round and back to the inlet, you will never experience pressure drop when opening and closing outlets that are in use; equalizes the pressure at all system points. I do this with outside water hydrants when I want to cover a rectangular or circle area. On a loop system use 3/4 or 1" minimum pipe size depending on CFM capacity.

Ron

 

[extrakt0r]

I have used PVC in all my installations at both my homes. Works fine. Not sure why PVC gets such a bad rep. Burst and max operating pressures are well beyond what any weekend warrior will be pumping from their air tank.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

 

[grsthegreat]

I have used PVC in all my installations at both my homes. Works fine. Not sure why PVC gets such a bad rep. Burst and max operating pressures are well beyond what any weekend warrior will be pumping from their air tank.

PVC Pipes - Pressure Ratings

the main problem with plastic piping is if it gets very cold, the burst rate increases. And when exposed plastic pipe goes thru alot of hot/cold cycles, it really degrades.

I have PERSONALLY seen plastic air line that had blown up. It does happen.

 

[Shield Arc]

You could always make a redneck air dryer too. Inter cooler, and after cooler. :laughing:

 

[grsthegreat]

You could always make a redneck air dryer too. Inter cooler, and after cooler. :laughing:

thats redneck all right hehe

 

[bigtiller]

You could always make a redneck air dryer too. Inter cooler, and after cooler. :laughing:

Interesting.... Is the garbage can just a shield to protect the coil from dirt and damage?