Should we upgrade for 5 HP? Same model same options ... Hmmmm....

[CalG]

If you want to trade UP for more performance. Do your calculations by the POUND.

HP really doesn't matter unless you are in some sort of hurry running some sort of powered attachment (like a baler)

 

[DonaldP]

Tractors are usually not referenced by year, so you ought to drop this notion of "2020", especially since that could hurt you. 470 hours is a pretty high amount of usage for a "2020" tractor in that market. In the lifetime of a Kubota, 470 hours is not a big deal at all, they should go at least 5000 hours before work is needed, but when you compare to typical hobby-farmer buyers of a L3560 and what they will put on a tractor, 470 is high for a tractor labeled as a "2020".

The recent model used tractors that sell for a hot price are ones with low hours that are "practically new" in the eyes of a buyer -- they are no-brainer alternatives to buying new and command new prices. At 470 hours, I think you are well past that honeymoon stage.

Have you sat on a 4060 and driven one? It is a much larger tractor with a completely different frame (shared with the larger Grand L models). When I was shopping all these tractors the L4060 was noticeably bigger than the L3560 when side by side and when driving them. Both great tractors but noticeably different in size.

Wonderfully put!!!
Great comments and viewpoints. Just what I need to make a decision.

 

[DonaldP]

If you want to trade UP for more performance. Do your calculations by the POUND.

HP really doesn't matter unless you are in some sort of hurry running some sort of powered attachment (like a baler)

I hear you!!! I’d get a bit more weight and some width increase with minimal height increase, so for ground contact … it looks like the l4060 would beat out the 3560 as far as center of gravity being lower and therefore giving more stability in the environment I’m using it on… 6” longer and 4 to 5 inches wider creates a larger overall footprint.

 

[diesel466]

If you are in a state that collects sales tax, you have to factor that in, in my state you pay tax on the difference between trade in and selling price. In my case that's 8% more. something to think about.

 

[MHarryE]

I know I could get a lot more for my L6060 with several extras than my dealer offered for trade but I am the world’s worst negotiator (according to my wife) so there was no doubt I’d accept the dealers’s offer. One of the principals said they sell all over the country because theirs is a low transaction price area and they do better selling country wide. My last trade their (Wisconsin) ended up in North Carolina). So the dealer needs to repair my neglect so it looks pretty, stand the shipping (why his prices always say “call for price”), and make a profit. Also, dealers who stay in business stand behind early problems while if I sell it is as is. I remember buying a hay binge from a Craig’s List ad - it self destructed at less than 30 acres. The money totally gone. I still needed one so I found one at a dealer 500 miles away. It was well used but dealer went over it, explained it’s history and assured me I would not be left holding the bag. Paid 50% more but it just finished its 3rd season.

 

[jyoutz]

Maybe consider just getting a 60” cutter? A 72” cutter is pretty large for a 35hp tractor.

 

[DonaldP]

Maybe consider just getting a 60” cutter? A 72” cutter is pretty large for a 35hp tractor.

I definitely get the picture there! I believe you’re thinking outside the box on this for sure. I suppose dropping down a size on the implements might be o e the best suggestions yet. Maybe most folks (me included) seem to want to answer these type of questions with simply adding more power. And while it may be the simplest in principal, who says taking a more conservative approach wouldn’t be just as fruitful.

 

[DonaldP]

Maybe consider just getting a 60” cutter? A 72” cutter is pretty large for a 35hp tractor.

I would add that the tractor still is within the manufactures warranty for another 6 months… and I’m not sure about transferability… but if I purchased an additional 2 years of extended warranty and it followed the tractor then that would seem to be a pretty good reason to purchase this unit over some other similarly priced unit.

 

[jeff9366]

it looks like the l4060 would beat out the 3560 as far as center of gravity being lower and therefore giving more stability in the environment I’m using it on… 6” longer and 4 to 5 inches wider creates a larger overall footprint.

1. The cab option raises the center-of-gravity.

2. If you have liquid filled tires or wheel weights discard them. The cab weight will provide ample traction without the wheel weight. There is only so much 35-horsepower can do.

3. The L3560 has adjustable rear tire spreads with both R1 and R4 tires. Increase the wheel spread of your rear wheels 4" to 6" for increased stability. Rear wheel width is more important for increasing operating stability than ballasted rear tires.

If instability is a real concern, and mowing is your key application, trade in the Kubota for a Toro Ventrac.

VENTRAC VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Ventrac

TRACTOR STABILITY: Prospective purchase for the mountains.




On the L3560 I had issues with the tire hitting the front Lower Loader Mount when turning and under load.

What tires are on the front of the L3560? Are the tires a factory option?
Are existing front tires correctly inflated?

 

[jeff9366]

I hear you!!! I’d get a bit more weight and some width increase with minimal height increase.

It takes a 50% increase in (Three Point Hitch) bare tractor weight before you notice a discernible increase in tractor capability. You would need to move from a Grand L t to a Kubota 'M' for weight to make a difference you will feel.