Tractor Sizing Sizing help for 7 acres

[anewuser]

I'm just beginning to look. I've been on my 7 acres for 15 years, but only mow the front 2 with a 50"-cut rider. The other 5 consists of about 3 acres of horse pasture with two horses, and 2 acres of wooded boundaries and an overgrown, wooded lot. Most of it is pretty flat.

The three acres of pasture are too much to mow with my Cub rider, especially when it gets tall and weedy; I haven't had the time to keep the front 2 cut and keep the pasture short enough at the same time. We use square bales, not round, so I don't need a heavy loader, though I do definitely need a FEL for picking up logs, hauling manure and such. Not sure what other implements I'd need - except maybe something to turn the pasture over about every 3 to 5 years. We're not in a snow area, and don't have much driveway to maintain.

Kubota and JD are the only local dealers. New Holland and Mahindra are about 75 miles away. I've been reading some of the posts asking about help with size and don't understand the 26 HP threshold. Something to do with emissions?

Also deciding to buy new or find something used with more power is another decision I need to make.

Thanks for the chance to ask...

 

[TheMan419]

Yes over 25 hp you get into all kinds of tier IV emission control issues.

I have 18 acres and 4 horses. We have a New Holland Boomer 24. It delivers 24 horse power.

I move manure, bush hog pastures, move dirt, clear snow and till ground with it. It has done everything I have thrown at it.

Would a higher hp tractor done those jobs faster? Of course. However cost of tractor would have gone up dramatically.

You will be able to run a 5 foot bush hog behind one with no problems for pasture. It can even take down small trees.

As for kubota v deer..... Pick the dealer that appears to give better support. I looked at both of those and in my area both dealers just did not make me feel good. Not trashing either brand just bad feeling about the dealers.

Once you have a tractor you will wonder how you cared for the horses without it.

 

[anewuser]

Thanks, 429. When you say it delivers 24 HP, that's at the PTO? Or is that the engine HP?

If I were to buy used, how old would a tractor have to be to pre-Tier 4 emissions?

 

[Creamer]

I would certainly prefer a little more Hp. Mine is 28 engine Hp and I would certainly prefer to go something like 35 for bushhogging with a 5' or moving logs. I tend to use the 3 pt forks to move logs because the loader is not strong enough for the size of logs I move but the 3 pt works well for most things. It never hurts to have a few more horses than you absolutely need and you only need to go back a few years to get something that is non-Tier IV. I wouldn't hesitate on something like a Ford 1920 though. One of the bigger things to check is hydraulic flow because that is the speed of you loader and 3 pt and makes a big difference in that type of work.

 

[sea2summit]

I would think about two things to help with the decision.

First, what is the heaviest thing you want to lift and do you want to drive with it in the bucket. A lot of times you can lift to the max capacity of the FEL but driving around with a full load may not be a safe idea so if you want to drive around with that load think about that weight being 60-75% of the max lift.

Next is time. A 25HP tractor will do all the work a 100HP tractor will do but it will take much much longer to do it. So do you want to take two hours to mow the pasture or 45 min? That's probably approximately the difference between a 25HP sub compact with a 4' brush hog and a mid 30HP with a 5' or 6' hog. Wheel size also often changes so if your ground is rough larger wheels also help you tear up your body and tractor less.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I maintained about that amount with a 28 HP New Holland 1720. I later added a FEL to it. IMHO that size tractor was perfect for 10 to 20 acres. 65" wheelbase, 3300# with loaded rears, and a FEL with 1000# lift capacity.

Anything in the 30 HP range from Kubota or Deere will serve you well if you feel comfortable with your dealers. I have a friend that purchased an L 3301 HST upon my recommendation and he is very pleased with the unit.

The emissions have to do with Tier 4. The L2501 does not have regeneration ie a DPF (diesel particulate filter). The L3301 and above does. Some folks have had issues with it. My friend has not.

 

[Milo]

I recently moved up from a B7500 with 21/17 hp to a B2650 which has a few more hp and a stronger loader and equipped like mine I think it could do do everything you're wanting.

I ordered it with the optional third function hydraulic in the front in order to operate a grapple, mower deck, FEL with QA bucket, and EA grapple (great implement). I kept the rear ballast box from my old tractor.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I would think about two things to help with the decision.

First, what is the heaviest thing you want to lift and do you want to drive with it in the bucket. A lot of times you can lift to the max capacity of the FEL but driving around with a full load may not be a safe idea so if you want to drive around with that load think about that weight being 60-75% of the max lift.

Next is time. A 25HP tractor will do all the work a 100HP tractor will do but it will take much much longer to do it. So do you want to take two hours to mow the pasture or 45 min? That's probably approximately the difference between a 25HP sub compact with a 4' brush hog and a mid 30HP with a 5' or 6' hog. Wheel size also often changes so if your ground is rough larger wheels also help you tear up your body and tractor less.

This is pretty good right here. The other thing to think through is what is the biggest hp draw implement you plan on using? Brush hog? Finish mower? Square baler? Wood chipper or stump grinder? What size pto driven implements do you need to get your work done in an acceptable (to you) time period, and how much hp will it take to drive that implement?

The tractor is just the power source, it's the implements that do the work.

 

[Tractorable]

For what it's worth, I have an eight acre property very similar to yours and after a ton of research I'm considering either a Kubota L3901 or a Yanmar YT235 to do everything on my property.

 

[flusher]

"Also deciding to buy new or find something used with more power is another decision I need to make.

Thanks for the chance to ask..."

Yep. I'd look at the used tractor market before spending $$$ on a new tractor that might not turn out to have enough hp. Something 5-10 years old with 30-40 hp and an FEL should be all you need for just 7 acres. This way you could avoid the DPF problems.

Good luck

 

[Thomas]

30hp should fit your needs.if ground not to wet R4's tires will do well.

 

[Turbys_1700]

"Also deciding to buy new or find something used with more power is another decision I need to make.

Thanks for the chance to ask..."

Yep. I'd look at the used tractor market before spending $$$ on a new tractor that might not turn out to have enough hp. Something 5-10 years old with 30-40 hp and an FEL should be all you need for just 7 acres. This way you could avoid the DPF problems.

Good luck

My 1720 was a 99 model with shuttle shift. When I traded it in with 850 hours it was a 13K retail tractor with FEL. It was clean as a pin and not beat up with excellent paint. If it had the SSQA FEL I would have probably kept it. When I traded in my Yanmar YM 1700 for it in 2006 it did not have an FEL and I added it later. It had 245 one owner hours at the time. Good tractor.

 

[MESSMAKER]

30 hp machine is a good place to be, but it gets you into tier 4. If you can live with a 25hp model, you will get a cheaper more simple model. the only drawback is you will have to use a 4 foot mower. Not a huge deal, but it is a small negative. I think I would consider this route if price is a concern. I really think it will be plenty for your needs.

 

[John Fitzgerald]

I have no problem using a standard duty 5 foot rotary cutter on my 24 HP CUT. I go slowly and mow a few times a growing season. I didn't get the 4 foot because it wouldn't cover the wheel track of the tractor, and I couldn't mow up close to objects for that reason. With the 5 foot, if the mower fits through between objects, so will the tractor. If I had to mow thick 8-10 foot high weeds, I would hire it done the first time anyway.

 

[TheMan419]

My 24 hp is engine. I forget what is at the pto.

5 foot bush hog has been no problem through even waist high weeds. For how high you might let a pasture get it will be zero problem.

The "toughest" thing I have done is use the 5 foot tiller to till 12 acres to plant pasture grass. I admit I was pushing the machine to its limits. However only have to do that once

Good advice about the heaviest thing you want to lift. My FEL maxes out at 1000 lb. at the pins. So with forks on like 600 lbs maybe. So not going to lift pallets of stuff or round bales.

While I agree with the advice to not buy too little tractor I will say it is possible to buy too much.

Also consider the lay out of your barn and pasture. Could a larger tractor make the turns you need it to make? We built our first two sacrifice paddocks. 6 foot gates. 5 foot bush hog. Guess what? Gonna reset a couple posts and do 8 foot gates. Lesson learned.

If I had a larger tractor I could not get into the barn w ROPS up. Would be a pain to have to lower each time I went in.

Larger tractor would not get as far into the corner when grooming the in door arena. Again a pain.

So to state a smaller tractor just takes more time than a larger one is not always true.

Can't imagine owing horses w out a FEL. Your back is going to thank you.

 

[anewuser]

The responses have been great and I certainly appreciate everything everyone said.

From what I read, 26 to 30 HP would be about what I need, but another 5 to 8 HP would give me a stronger loader for when I really need it and allow for a larger brush hog to cut down mowing time.

I believe what I'm going to concentrate on looking for is a good 2007 or newer 30 to 38 HP Kubota or Deere with FEL. I'm also going to go to both dealers and get a sense of how they are with customers. I believe they both have used tractors and a couple other places in town also sell ones they pick up from auctions. I will need to do some research on specific models to find out when the Tier 4 emissions change went into effect.

Does anyone have experience with the Kubota B vs. L series?

One other question is transmission type. What advantages/disadvantages of HST vs. synchronized gear? Is the additional cost of hydrostatic worth it?

Thanks again.

 

[jeff9366]

From what I read, 26 to 30 HP would be about what I need, but another 5 to 8 HP would give me a stronger loader when I need it and allow for a larger bush hog to reduce mowing time.

Every tractor manufacturer now has a tractor with a bare weight of 2,600 to 2,700 pounds, with an engine just under 25-horspower, to avoid expensive Tier IV emission controls. Before Tier IV, 25-horsepower tractors were around 1,900 pounds bare tractor. An extra 800 pounds in bare tractor weight makes a big amount of difference in tractor capability and stability. Kubota pioneered this medium-chassis, <25-horsepower category with its L2501.

Many/most of us keep our tractors in the garage; cars and tractor implements outside. Tractor ROPS are quite tall. When shopping tractors consider the "real" height of your garage door opening, relative to folded height of tractor ROPS.


I believe I'm going to concentrate on looking for a good 2007 or newer 30 to 38 HP Kubota or Deere with FEL. I'm also going to visit both dealers to get a sense of how they are with customers. I believe both Deere and Kubota have used tractors. There are a couple other places in town that sell tractors they pick up at auctions.
I will need to research when Tier 4 emissions standards went into effect in specific models.

Tractor dealers usually accept trades only from established customers toward new tractors. Tractor dealers usually have a pretty good idea of the reliability of THE SELLER as well as reliability of the seller's tractor.

Auction tractors are high risk, blind purchases.

Tier IV tractors transitioned into the new market during 2012 to 2013.

Does anyone have experience with the Kubota B vs. L series?
I purchased a new Kubota B3300SU tractor-loader package in 2011. I found B3300SU was too light, therefore too unstable for my use, which was more loader work than Three Point Hitch work.

I purchased a new heavy-chassis Kubota L3560 (Tier IV) in 2013. The tractor is only slightly larger than the B3300SU but twice the weight. L3560 has de Luxe kit. Great tractor which I will keep at least forever.

One other question is transmission type. What advantages/disadvantages of HST vs. synchronized gear?
I cannot bear addressing this question again, for the tenth time, during September 2017.
LINK: tractor hst vs shuttle - Google Search

Is the additional cost of hydrostatic worth it? YES

 

[jeff9366]

We use square bales, not round, so I don't need a heavy loader, though I do definitely need a FEL for picking up logs, hauling manure and such.

Manure is not heavy. Consider readily available Three Point Hitch Pallet Forks for transporting logs via the rear Three Point Hitch. Three Point Hitch lift is more powerful than FEL lift but limited in height. Low lift = greater tractor stability.
LINK: Titan 3 point hitch Pallet Fork Attachment Category 1 tractor carryall 3PT-PF | eBay

Not sure what other implements I'd need - except something to turn the pasture over once every 3 to 5 years.
You probably want to SLICE the pasture every three to four years, not turn it.
LINK: Hay King Renovators - Hay King - Miller

 

[anewuser]

Manure is not heavy. Consider Pallet Forks for transporting logs via the rear Three Point Hitch. Three Point Hitch lift is more powerful than FEL lift but limited in height. Low lift = greater tractor stability.

Excellent points, Jeff. This is where my inexperience shows. I've seen guys using pallet forks instead of the loader for heavy logs. Never considered carrying logs with the 3 point hitch in the rear. Ditto with slicing. This is exactly why I came here to ask and learn.

 

[whirly]

Thanks, 429. When you say it delivers 24 HP, that's at the PTO? Or is that the engine HP?

If I were to buy used, how old would a tractor have to be to pre-Tier 4 emissions?

My 2013 MX5100 is Pre-IV. In 2015 Kubota came out with the MX5200 to replace it and it is full Tier IV.

As to your size question ... I have 10 ac mostly pasture and arena with no "woods" but lots of trash trees. I'm on the wet side of the island and our grass grows FAST. If I don't mow every week the guinea grass gets up to 2' in no time. We bought the MX5100 w/200hrs AND had it shipped 4,800 mi to the island from PA for less than my buddy paid for his BX25 at the local dealer. Admittedly, I was replacing another tractor and have all of the implements so there was no additional cost and I don't need the BH.

I've found that when I have to do anything I have never wished I had a larger tractor. However, your situation may be different and the smaller tractors can do impressive work it just takes longer in many cases. Case in point ... I flail my property with a 6' Mott (really old flail) it takes me about 5 hrs to do 7 acres. With a smaller tractor or a 48" zero turn (I have one of those also) it would be a whole day. I move faster and cut more with each pass. Additionally, with a larger tractor you get a bigger bucket on the FEL for moving manure which we also do on a regular basis which may save you a few trips a week.

I'm not pushing the Kubota. I bought it to replace my old Fordson Power Major that finally lost it's clutch. The MX5100 was the closest HP with 4wd that had HST (I'm getting old and got tired of the gears) and fit my budget. If you have a budget like me, find the tractor you want at a dealer with the highest HP within your budget then look for the same tractor used. You can usually find one with very low hours pre-2015 for less even if you have to travel to see it and have it delivered. You might even be able to get the next step or 2 up in HP and still have money left over for implements.

Good luck and remember the journey is as enjoyable as the destination.