Skidding Tongs for pulling lumber - What else do I need?

[CobyRupert]

Looks like the tire over the cable does very little to stop the destruction of a snapped cable.
Video showing various cables snapping:

 

[Gee Ray]

How to determine a chain’s working load limit​

The WLL of a chain is determined by both the grade and the diameter. Chain is embossed with both the grade and size so you can determine its WLL using this chart.

This chart will let the OP pick a chain that suits his needs.

The light weight of the 1/4 Grade 70 chain is a lot easier to drag thru the woods and is stronger then a common 3/8 chain.

 

[LD1]

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The light weight of the 1/4 Grade 70 chain is a lot easier to drag thru the woods and is stronger then a common 3/8 chain.

And a complete waste of money for pulling logs with 5000# of old iron in my opinion.

 

[CobyRupert]

With a front end loader and loaded tires he might be closer to 8000lbs. Tractordata says a 2155 weighs 5-6K lbs.
If he’s on a flat spot but pulling the logs uphill that will pull down on the rear of the tractor, increase traction and increase the pulling force way beyond the weight of the tractor…depending on tires and soil.

 

[plowhog]

Sorry if this question has an obvious answer, but what else do I *need*?

btw, check the bottom of your logs before skidding. Sometimes a side branch will impale straight into the ground and become an anchor.

Not much fun trying to skid a log with an anchor attached ...

 

[bcp]

Buying chain: Around here, the price of bulk chain + hooks is considerably more than equal size packaged tow chains.

I haven't used my 5/16 chains since finding 1/4 G70, but my logging skidder is a Kubota BX.

Bruce

 

[LD1]

Buying chain: Around here, the price of bulk chain + hooks is considerably more than equal size packaged tow chains.

I haven't used my 5/16 chains since finding 1/4 G70, but my logging skidder is a Kubota BX.

Bruce

1/4" G70 is about a perfect match for the BX and maybe even a B. 5/16" pairs well with the smaller L's and bigger B's. But when you get to the Big L's and MX's and M's, thats pushing 4000 pounds bare tractor. Couple that with a loader, loaded tires, etc and its easy to get to a 6000# tractor, and in the right conditions drawbar pull can equal or exceed bare weight. I wont use anything less than 3/8" G70 behind my MX. Have broke too many 5/16" chains in my life to one a hook flying at my head

 

[Buggs67]

"1/8 or 3/16 chrome what?

1/8 and 3/16 is smaller than 1/4"

I guess I learned the New Math; 8 is bigger than 4 and 1=1 so 1/8 is bigger than 1/4. 8 is smaller than 16 and 1 is smaller than 3 so 1/8 is smaller than 3/16. I breezed thru enginear school and currently design roundabouts for the state.

 

[FTG-05]

I replaced my 28" Log Rite logging tongs with a grapple. I haven't used the tongs in 5 years or more.

Anyone wants it, come get it. I-65 near the AL/TN border.

 

[ericm979]

I've been using a cable choker. They cost less than tongs, they grip hard and don't come loose. Since they are stiff they're easier to poke under the log than chains.

I have some long chains that I use to hook to the tractor, and also a 65' cable that's sold by HF as a winch cable replacement. I got some clamps and a ferule and made a loop on the bare end. The winch cable was the cheapest way to get a cable that length.

This works ok when there is room for moving the tractor while pulling the log. My land is steep and wooded so there usually isn't room to run the tractor to do the pull. I now have a forestry winch on order.

 

[Dragonpharm]

I purchased some choker cables from a logging supply company and love using them. Having broken log choker cables available at big box home improvement stores and fought tongs, I'll keep using the cable chokers. They are easy to push under logs. Depending on the size of log you can diy a log skid to put under the log to keep it from digging in when pulling. Basically you want something to keep the log from digging in and getting full of chainsaw dulling dirt. I made one out of a metal wheelbarrow tub. Just cut the back end out to let the log sit inside and put a hole in the front for the choker to pass through. It worked well for me. I have used it to drag decent sized logs with an ATV when it was the only machine that could get to the logs. When the log can't sign in, it's much easier to pull.

 

[PILOON]

I made a DIY log skid (sled) using the curled end designed for highway safety railing.

The shape is just right and kind of looks like the end of a giant ski.
They are even shaped to keep a log end centered.

 

[CoyPatton]

I've been using a cable choker. They cost less than tongs, they grip hard and don't come loose. Since they are stiff they're easier to poke under the log than chains.

I have some long chains that I use to hook to the tractor, and also a 65' cable that's sold by HF as a winch cable replacement. I got some clamps and a ferule and made a loop on the bare end. The winch cable was the cheapest way to get a cable that length.

This works ok when there is room for moving the tractor while pulling the log. My land is steep and wooded so there usually isn't room to run the tractor to do the pull. I now have a forestry winch on order.

If using cable, add in a snatch block or several to your logging tool kit! There are some handy self releasing snatch blocks available (never personally used one but they sure look nice in some videos I have seen). Snatch blocks allow you to redirect your pull which is very helpful in tight areas. You probably want a second pair of eyes to prevent getting your cables jammed into the snatch block—a real pain and time consumer.

 

[Hoho223]

It may be worth the time to check out prices for appropriately rated lengths of logging/tow chain or wire rope at Home Depot/Lowes/Menards/Tractor Supply instead of using tow straps. Dragging stuff behind a tractor puts a beating on whatever you are using to pull with. At very least I probably wouldn't plan on using those tow straps as tie downs afterward. I've got two 20' sections of 5/16ths tow chain and I think they might have cost $90.00 together. You should also be able to buy by the foot for custom lengths at a comparable price to pre-cut lengths.

Another thought... Consider investing in a shorter length of heavy duty wire rope to act as a choker as an alternate to the tongs. In some situations tongs work better and in others they may not bite well enough and a wire rope choker might be of better use. Just make sure you constantly check the fasteners for the eye for slippage and the wire rope for fraying. Best of luck!

Tongs are only as good as the diameter they were meant to fit. Unwieldy and at times hard to keep attached. Ideal set up to me would be a 3 point hitch log lifter appropriately sized for your needs.

 

[bluehog]

A skidding cone comes in handy, a Blue barrel https://northernwoodlands.org/articles/article/homemade-skidding-cone would work fine .

I definitely agree with the use of some sort of skidding cone, especially if you are dealing in a rocky area or going uphill. I found myself with a large mess on the back and side of my property from a tree thinning project in our community. The forest service did "lop & scatter" rather than removing downed trees and debris from the canyon area. This was a main wildlife corridor that greatly effected the elk travel pattern, which we loved to watch. So my wife and I decided to clean it up. Ended up being at least 5 overloaded trips with my 22' flatdeck to the slash pit.

With a lot of exposed rock and stumps I needed to have something that would allow the timber to not get stuck pulling uphill. I purchased a 15G conical drum and cut off the top to use as my log skidder, along with a choker chain, multiple g70 tiedown chains and a 5000lb 12v HF winch we got to work. Another must have for the chains is the "locking end" clip type so that the multiple chain connections don't come undone until you want them too.

And as everyone else keeps saying... BE SAFE DOING YOUR PROJECT!

 

[Panik]

Tongs are only as good as the diameter they were meant to fit. Unwieldy and at times hard to keep attached. Ideal set up to me would be a 3 point hitch log lifter appropriately sized for your needs.

Think you may have quoted the wrong post friend.... I've never used tongs for skidding the logs I've needed to move, though I've seriously consider buying two pair for piling up the large amount of railroad ties the former property owner used for landscaping.

 

[masscity]

I brother used to work for a paper mill and they used G80 or G100 9/32" over head chain in 20 ft lengths. They could only use it so long and then they had to
throw it away. My brother and many of these chains. We had a slip hook on each end.

The advantage of a chain over tongs is that you can wrap the chain so you can roll the log or hook the chain so you can steer it around a stump.

 

[Sberry]

Aint really the size of the tractor but the load being moved. I agree, a couple 5/16 and a couple 1/4 and a steel rod and bar for poking/pulling under. Chokers are ok but for the diy type chains may be better, chokers get assholes in them and wires are sharp. Nylon not really good for this. Hard to damage a chain if you aint doing something you shouldnt.

 

[LD1]

Aint really the size of the tractor but the load being moved.

Hard to predict the load pulling a log. Never know when it might dig in, bind on a stump, get hung up on another tree, etc.

A chain that the machine isnt capable of breaking before loosing traction is better than a chain you have to constantly worry if you are overstressing it

If a 3/8" log chain is too much for you to tote around, I dont think wielding a chainsaw and cutting firewood is the right thing to be doing

 

[Dragonpharm]

This place sells really good quality log chokers and related items. Westech Rigging Supply - Rigging Equipment, Rigging Hardware, Tree Gear & Logging Supplies