Sloppy 3 point?

[simmysam3]

Have 60 hours on my new TYM 330HST.

Was using the back side of the box blade which has a blade for cutting in the reverse direction. Great for doing some "dozing" type work.

I hit a stump that was cut down just beneath grade last year. Stopped me dead. Got off and double checked everything, and made sure all the linkages were tight, and that I did not bend or strip anything. All looks good. Don't notice any difference when raising/lowering, or pulling the box.

However when backing up with the exterior blade it seems to float up more easily under pressure and I don't seem to get the consistant aggressive cut I had previously. While it still cuts, it seems to "bounce" rather than dig in in a smooth fashion.

Any ideas as to what might be off (like my imagination)?

 

[JerryG]

Any ideas as to what might be off (like my imagination)?

If it raises and lowers correctly and everything is tight and not bent, then it could be in your imagination. You might lengthen the third arm a little so that the outside blade will cut a little better. Just be careful dozing backward. There have been several that have bent their lift arms doing that.

 

[grunewald]

Did you hit stump on the corner of blade? I did the same thing by hitting the corner, bent the box blade itself, actually broke a weld also. Try parking on a very flat surface and lower the box blade down to see what is not flat to the surface. Hope this might help.

 

[jimainiac]

I think you might just be discovering some of the limitations of the 3PH. No down pressure, and they, by design, work better at pulling than pushing. I sometimes use my rear blade to push snow backwards, especially when the ground is soft and it would dig in going forward, but it tends to ride up when pushing too much. It's much easier to bend and break things in the 3PH when pushing in reverse and hitting something solid. My $0.02...

 

[skipmarcy]

Adjusting your toplink even slightly will make a tremendous effect on the way your box cuts. I used to struggle thru, not wanting to get on/off the tractor and adjust the toplink until I got my hydraulic toplink. I've had it now for 2 years and would not do without one again. It only takes the slightest adjustment to change the way the box cuts & drags, especially as the terrain changes, and just a tweek on the cylinder is all it takes. I used to get on a good, level hard surface and lower the blade(s) down to just barely an inch above the surface. Then adjust your toplink to get the front & rear blades equal off the ground (level). This is a good all around setting but if you want to drag larger amounts in the box you would shorten your toplink slightly for more bite in the front blade. This will also kick the rear blade up slightly which will eliminate the chatter when dozing in reverse. Of course this is all assuming fairly level ground. As far as hurting the 3 pt. - I have done some terribly heavy duty work with my boxblade, ripping palmettos and trees out of the ground and such and I've never hurt my linkages anywhere except the drawpins, invariably they'll bend before anything else on my tractor. My rotary cutter is worse about this with it's greater leverage and weight when I'm backing into saplings and heavy stuff or snag a tree going by. If your implement isn't oversized for your tractor, I doubt you'll hurt your 3 pt. except in a rare event.