Small saw quest

[wwdiii]

I’ve always wondered why one has to be a pro/arborist to use a top handle saw!

 

[goeduck]

I have had a top handle Stihl saw for about 5 years that I use for limbing but I am thinking about getting an MS241 instead. The top handles are great to use but dangerous as well. The hand placement does not allow much control if your tip bites and kicks at high chain speed.

 

[John_Mc]

... The top handles are great to use but dangerous as well. The hand placement does not allow much control if your tip bites and kicks at high chain speed.

Which is exactly why they push them as "pro-only" saws. With your hands so close together, you do not have the control you do on a regular, rear-handle saw. (Not too mention the fact that people are really tempted to run them one-handed. Sometimes, an arborist has no choice, but they are hoping they've had the experience and training to deal with that safely.)

 

[dfkrug]

Which is exactly why they push them as "pro-only" saws. With your hands so close together, you do not have the control you do on a regular, rear-handle saw. (Not too mention the fact that people are really tempted to run them one-handed. Sometimes, an arborist has no choice, but they are hoping they've had the experience and training to deal with that safely.)

That is well-stated, John.

I was just up on my slopes using my Tanaka yesterday. (Yeah, one-handed.) It is definitely a special-purpose saw, and those who have only one saw should get a conventional rear-handle saw of about 35-45cc. Of course, just my opinion....I could be wrong.....

Kick-back can be an issue whenever one uses the tip of the bar, but tophandle saws DO have small engines, so their inertia is less than bigger saws. The most dangerous saws for kickback are big-engine saws with short bars, IMO.

 

[Ritothebull]

I have a top handle Tanaka I use for small stuff and that little thing will really cut the macaroni, it starts easy as well even after its been sitting for months. Like any other tool that can hurt you just make sure you know how to use it properly.

 

[goeduck]

That is well-stated, John.

I was just up on my slopes using my Tanaka yesterday. (Yeah, one-handed.) It is definitely a special-purpose saw, and those who have only one saw should get a conventional rear-handle saw of about 35-45cc. Of course, just my opinion....I could be wrong.....

Kick-back can be an issue whenever one uses the tip of the bar, but tophandle saws DO have small engines, so their inertia is less than bigger saws. The most dangerous saws for kickback are big-engine saws with short bars, IMO.

The little saws can run higher rpms than the bigger saws so the chain tip speed on a top handle can be very fast, combined with the two (or worse yet one) hands being side by side (little leverage) can make the saw pivot the bar to the operator in a flash. I have one I use for limbing but may be retiring it to special use and get an MS241.

 

[PILOON]

I'm the luck one as I have a Stihl 009, nice top handle. (LOL, paid $35 at a pawnbroker 4 it)
So light that I can use it one handed.

Chatting with a local arborist, he offered to do a straight trade for a 3 month old Jonsered saw that sells in the $300 + range.
LOL, I still have it! That little bugger is just the greatest limbing saw!
I have cut to length 6-8" maple and birch for firewood with no sweat.
Maybe it helps that I know how to file my chains!
Note I also have a big powerful Jonsered but prefer that little guy for most chores.

 

[goeduck]

I'm the luck one as I have a Stihl 009, nice top handle. (LOL, paid $35 at a pawnbroker 4 it)
So light that I can use it one handed.

Chatting with a local arborist, he offered to do a straight trade for a 3 month old Jonsered saw that sells in the $300 + range.
LOL, I still have it! That little bugger is just the greatest limbing saw!
I have cut to length 6-8" maple and birch for firewood with no sweat.
Maybe it helps that I know how to file my chains!
Note I also have a big powerful Jonsered but prefer that little guy for most chores.

Some (all?) of the Stihl 009 saws were more of a back handle than top handle. The 009s were a great saw.

 

[hslogger]

It aint the size of the wand, tis the magic behind it. i have two of those ms170 Stihl saws. I think they come with sixteen inch bars, I spec'd mine out at two inches shorter. It has plenty of power, I run Oregon chain without the safety straps and have full floating drive spockets instead of the standard star drive. They are fine saws. I know saws. Saws are friends of mine, and these little saws are fine saws.

 

[bullbreaker]

Check out the Echo CS-271T. I looked at this and the Stihl. Didn稚 buy either but the Echo would be my choice....and I own 2 other Stihl saws and like them.

Yes that one's been on my radar also , but been leaning lately towards this one : Echo CS-2511T-12 12" 25.cc Top-Handle Lightweight Gas Chainsaw ($374.)

A little bit smaller displacement , a little more $ but suppose to come with a "pro grade" engine what ever that means . Maybe hour rated ?