Smallest tractor for posthole digger

[JohnFourteenSix]

I'm selling my JD 3032e, I've replaced it with a skid steer + excavator setup, but I'd still like something small and maneuverable and can drive a posthole digger. What's the smallest/cheapest tractor I could get away with that would be able to power/lift it? I have the yellow TSC posthole digger. I've also thought about a hydraulic auger but the skid steer isn't as maneuverable as my tractor. Would a 1025r do it?

 

[seymojo536]

Seriously think about that hydraulic auger some more. First time you sink it too fast or catch a rock/root and can just reverse the auger to free it will be worth the price.

 

[CobyRupert]

I think a good operator can compensate for reduced HP and 3PT lift with a small tractor. It'll just be less forgiving when you corkscrew it into the ground.

I'd be worried if a small tractor with a Cat 0 3-point hitch can lift your specific PHD high enough so the auger is above the ground and doesn't drag.
This may depend on how long the specific auger is.
PHD's don't use a top link, so there's little adjustment to be able to raise the PHD higher if the combination of tractor an PHD doesn't lift the auger high enough.
Does your TSC PHD have an adjustment where the PHD's yoke "arms" can connect into the PHD main beam at different locations, adjusting the PHD's lift height?

What skid steer isn't as maneuverable as your tractor?
...or conversely, what tractor is more maneuverable than a skid steer?

 

[4570Man]

Why don’t you put a post hole auger on the mini or the skid steer. The hydraulic augers are expensive but it would be way better than a 3pt one especially on a little tractor. The hydraulic auger has down force, reverse, and you’re looking at it sitting forward. I can’t imagine having a skid steer and buying a tractor to run a 3pt auger. 3pt augers are about $500 and a hydraulic one is about $2,000 but having to buy another tractor takes away any cost savings.

 

[ovrszd]

I would never consider putting a Post Hole Auger on my JD2210.

 

[RickB]

Buying a tractor to run a low dollar PHD that you happen to already own is exactly what popped up when I searched the term false economy. Sell your PHD and buy a hydraulic drive unit for your SSL.
Thank us all later.

 

[JPRambo]

I have used a PHD on my Kubota B7100. I dug 4 - 12" holes for old power poles to build a raised platform onto. As others have said be careful of the amount of depth before you allow it to clear itself.

 

[JohnFourteenSix]

I'll be getting the SSL today, it seemed larger than the tractor width-wise, but it might just be because it's more boxy rather than the long tractor. I'm mostly transplanting 1gal containers and I'm working around already-planted seedlings. I've found the tractor more maneuverable, I'm unsure about the SSL, but we'll see.

Sounds like everyone's saying to just ditch the tractor and go with SSL all the way. I still miss the way a tractor rides, though, and the ease of starting it up if I just want to get something from point to point. Hopping on the tractor is far easier than climbing into a SSL.

 

[Rebeldad1]

whats your main concern? small and compact or least expensive?

 

[JohnFourteenSix]

The SSL (actually a CTL) arrived today. It is actually around the same size as the tractor, so I think I'll just use a PHD mounted on the SSL, or at least get a tractor without consideration for using the PHD.

I already got it stuck!

 

[Threepoint]

OP, fwiw, another data point: I've dug dozens of post holes over the years in everything from hardpan (not fun) to soft soil with a TSC PHD and 9" auger using my Kubota B2150HST. 18 hp at the PTO. That's always been more than enough power for me.

 

[RickB]

The physical size and weight of the tractor and 3 point hitch geometry of most sub compact tractors make a 3 point hitch PHD challenging or impossible to use. Power isn’t the limiting factor.

 

[rScotty]

The physical size and weight of the tractor and 3 point hitch geometry of most sub compact tractors make a 3 point hitch PHD challenging or impossible to use. Power isn稚 the limiting factor.

And those are exactly the same problems I had using a 3pt post hole digger with a compact size tractor as well. All of the things that one likes about a 35 hp compact tractor that make it stable and convenient make it not work well for a 3pt PHD. For a post hole digger you want an engine with a lot of flywheel effect so that you can run the PTO at very low speed without stalling the engine. Safer, too. And at low speed you get stuck less. Sticking the auger with a 3pt PHD is a real problem. One way you get out of that problem is to have a heavy tractor with some serious 3pt hitch lifting power.

When I put the 3pt post hold digger on my old John Deere B with a category II 3pt hitch everything worked together wonderfully. That tall heavy ag-type tractor - putting out maybe 20 honest hp at an idle - would work the post hold digger just fine. It has a powerful 3pt hitch with a lot of lift height. You need a lot of lift height.
Utility tractors are built to be low to the ground and because of that they won't have a 3pt that will lift the post hold digger high enough. A taller heavier tractor Ag type tractor with a category II 3pt hitch is perfect.
The good news is that older tall heavy 2wd medium size ag tractors with category II 3pts are probably the best deal on the tractor market today. A thousand $$ or maybe two will buy you a whole lot of that type tractor. You can afford to have a nice dedicated post hole drilling tractor for way less than the price of a hydraulic auger for the SS. That leaves you enough money to buy a decent auger bit for the 3pt PHD. Good bits cost more than the rest of the PHD.

I know you can because I did it that way. And I ended up buying 3 auger bits for it , too... for different diameter holes & because of rocks.
I also found out that in larger sizes, it's worthwhile to get a more expensive auger bit with replaceable hard teeth.

But having done all this, I'd also say that if you need to do many holes, and can possibly scrape up the money.....then you would be better off to get a hydraulic PHD for the SS. Being able to reverse the auger is a huge advantage.
rScotty

 

[CobyRupert]

The physical size and weight of the tractor and 3 point hitch geometry of most sub compact tractors make a 3 point hitch PHD challenging or impossible to use. Power isn稚 the limiting factor.

Exactly!
People dig a lot of post holes with these. They don't have a lot of horsepower, and the "lifting capacity" is based on what you ate for breakfast.


This type of TSC PHD has adjustment holes where the yoke connects to the main beam that makes it raise higher & suitable for smaller tractors:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/421220-smallest-tractor-posthole-digger-2.html

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Some of the concerns stated above is what brought about our Land Shark Subcompact Post Hole Digger by EA. The geometry is optimal and the quality is just as good as our models for larger tractors.
Most PHDs by EA ship to your home via FedEx Ground.
Travis

This pic shows the difference..

This video shows our Land Shark digger in action on our Kubota B and BX series tractors.

 

[ovrszd]

What's the length of the auger?? Looks considerably shorter than the first pic.

 

[tookielee]

I used mine with a little 15 HP Bolens - had to watch how fast it went down,
but it worked ok = the 3 speed pto that could be stopped by pushing in the
clutch helped - I don't like the electric ptos, there needs to be a way to
feather them in gradually so it doesn't start so violently

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Around here, you would end up digging too much by hand, just to get the hole deep enough.

SR

 

[CobyRupert]

What's the length of the auger?? Looks considerably shorter than the first pic.

It does look that way, until you start counting the auger's spirals and looking at their spacing, then it looks the same. (???)
Maybe the guard over the auger's mounting and shear bolts, and the reduced curve of the main beam gives the auger a shorter appearance?

Edit: On 2nd look, the Land Shark almost look like it has "double helix" screws instead of single like the yellow one..

 

[ovrszd]

It does look that way, until you start counting the auger's spirals and looking at their spacing, then it looks the same. (???)
Maybe the guard over the auger's mounting and shear bolts, and the reduced curve of the main beam gives the auger a shorter appearance?

Look at the top of the augers in relationship to the tractor seat. At least a foot difference in auger length. As Rob said, you'd have to finish the hole by hand.

If you put the long auger on it'll be dragging the ground during transport. Their claim of 24" auger clearance during transport is wayyyyy off. As is their claim of 12" auger clearance with a 48" auger.